Gauges and such - a few Q's
#1
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Anybody have some suggestions for boost and other gauges that might fall between the cheapo cruddy autometers and the way expensive Defi gauges? I'm looking for boost in psi as I find readouts in bar a little irritating and not as easy to visually check (just a natural thought process issue) but I have autometer and it's already WAY innacurate, I've heard quite a few people complain similarly about the VDO units...I'd ideally like to find something with an electrical sender similar to the Greddy units, but can't find much out there at all, and I'm not ready to start dropping $200/gauge plus another $105 for the main driver unit for the Defi's.
I have looked and am considering the regular Defi boost gauge which seems to be straight mechanical, but does anyone have experience with these - accuracy reports etc?
I have looked and am considering the regular Defi boost gauge which seems to be straight mechanical, but does anyone have experience with these - accuracy reports etc?
#2
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I am facing the same dilemma as you. First off, i want to places the gauges underneath the stereo, so i need clear and big gauges under there. However, i am considering digital gauges , id rather have numbers displaying (for boost AND a/f ratio) rather than i have to stare at the analog gauges and see what's going on. I was thinking of a pillar mount, but the wires would be soooo long to reach the KLR/DME units. But, if i would go with the pillar pod, the analog would be fine. I heard autometer was good, i do not know why you say that they were not accurate, the Defi are WAY TOO expensive, do a search on ebay, LOADS of manufactures there.
#4
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I have a $30 mechanical VDO gauge and tested it against my Link MAP. After I moved the needle back to its original position (cos I painted it), it was spot on.
#6
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Problem with my autometer is it reads too low in vacuum and too high on boost - reads like 10 psi vacuum when profec b reads 6.6psi and like 20psi boost when profec reads 17.5 psi boost...and the profec seems to be accurate with the factory dash gauge, so the autometer seems to be the weak/innacurate link of the 3...
Do the spa gauges read in psi and are they mechanical or electric?
Do the spa gauges read in psi and are they mechanical or electric?
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#8
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well, actually since factory gauge reads "0" and autometer reads "-.9" with ign on and engine off, and since profec is a digital gauge which also reads "0" and autometer is a cheap *** known problematic gauge, I tend to disagree with you. Also, since profec reads EXACT with factory gauge at idle pulling approx. "-6 psi" or whatever the bar equiv. is (I did the calc and verified they were within +- 1% of each other), I would lean more towards the innacuracy of a cruddy mechanical gauge which isn't even accurate for 1 atmosphere without the engine on.
#10
Burning Brakes
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just curious - I dont actually know if it has an effect - but are you connected into the same place for both guages?
IMHO analog is easier to reference than digital - with analog you can quickly scan a position (especially if you mount it so that your normal max boost is straight up or level) a digital readout has to be read.
Tony
IMHO analog is easier to reference than digital - with analog you can quickly scan a position (especially if you mount it so that your normal max boost is straight up or level) a digital readout has to be read.
Tony
#12
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I feel like an idiot adrial for not noticing that, but it's still about 1-2psi off by my calcs doing the in-Hg to psi conversion
UK952 - yes, the autometer is run via hardline to the KLR hard line, and the profec is T'd in the middle of the autometer hardline...
poormans... - the profec sits under my radio in the din spot, and it is more than distracting to look at while driving - I have a 2 gauge a-pillar pod and have gotten to the point where I don't even look at the autometer because it reads so far from what the other 2 readout...
I would like to find a reasonable solution so I have an easily visually referenceable boost gauge to look at while driving, and would ideally like an electronic so that I can dedicate the KLR line T to the MAP which is getting hooked up and the profec rather than having 3 pressure sensors run off the same line - I know it won't make much of a difference but I'm a fan of minimizing points of failure off the same system, especially when doing it with rubber hose T's and plumbers' goop.
I guess after re-reading all this, I would like to ask if there's any specific way to 'calibrate' or check the accuracy of a boost gauge (other than checking the reading at ignition 'on' and engine 'off' to verify 1 atm/0 boost)...anyone?
UK952 - yes, the autometer is run via hardline to the KLR hard line, and the profec is T'd in the middle of the autometer hardline...
poormans... - the profec sits under my radio in the din spot, and it is more than distracting to look at while driving - I have a 2 gauge a-pillar pod and have gotten to the point where I don't even look at the autometer because it reads so far from what the other 2 readout...
I would like to find a reasonable solution so I have an easily visually referenceable boost gauge to look at while driving, and would ideally like an electronic so that I can dedicate the KLR line T to the MAP which is getting hooked up and the profec rather than having 3 pressure sensors run off the same line - I know it won't make much of a difference but I'm a fan of minimizing points of failure off the same system, especially when doing it with rubber hose T's and plumbers' goop.
I guess after re-reading all this, I would like to ask if there's any specific way to 'calibrate' or check the accuracy of a boost gauge (other than checking the reading at ignition 'on' and engine 'off' to verify 1 atm/0 boost)...anyone?
Last edited by MachSchnell; 07-10-2004 at 05:29 PM.