mikec944

Well, I knew it had to happen to me sometime. No big deal. I have read in the archives that this exact problem has happened to a number of others. Start the car...can't engage any gear...shut car off, put in first, start car, release brake with clutch pedal in...car moves. So, the clutch is not fully disengaging. Gotta go in and replace something...so I might as well replace it all, including replacing flywheel with a lightweight flywheel.
I was ready for this a couple of weeks ago too, the release bearing was a bit noisy, so the pain isn't as bad than if it happened all of a sudden.

I can do the work myself, but would still like some help with the best place to buy from (with price if you know) and what brand to get. As far as the flywheel, I did a search and found most people use the fidanza lwfw. Price on this? Anybody have any problems with a lwfw? What does it weigh, 5.5lbs?

Thanks for any help! I'm actually looking forward to this. Never done it before and have been wanting to learn.

hosrom_951

How noisy or what did the noise sound like for the bearing? mine makes a soft rattle when i let off the cluth pedal. But after 1 min or so of idle without pressing the clutch, it slowly goes away.

mikec944

I'm not even concerned of the noise now. The car is stuck where it is. Clutch won't disengage. But, anyways it would make the spinning bearing noise (if you know what that sounds like), when I disengaged the clutch (pedal pushed in). Stopped when I released pedal.

daniel951

i jsut got done taking my whole car apart just to get to the clutch and it isn't easy like they said. If u have time then it should be a problem. I would think about getting new bolts before u start and u will need cheesehead tools and etc.

mikec944

not worried about the work or tools...I work at 2 shops. If I get stuck somewhere, my friends have done plenty of clutch jobs on 944/951's.

dime1622

i seriously think this is a hydraulic problem as it is happening to me as well. the way ive found to fix it when it happens is shut the car off, then pump the brake until it gets really stiff, then hold the brake and clutch pedal down, push the brake really hard, then start the car. if it doesnt work the first time it should work the second time.

ewainwright

I had a similar problem with the clutch refusing to totally disengage. A spring broke and I bent the fork that pushes the throw out bearing. If I had to do my clutch job again, I wouldn't. That being said it was more important to me to have everything needed as well as someone who would take the time to talk to me with any issues that came up. I went with Lindsey Racing and the Sach's Sport Cup Clutch. Lindsey has a kit with all the bolts/parts you'll need. I ended up replacing all my flywheel sensors due to their connectors falling apart as soon as I looked at them- let alone touching them. I couldn't believe the price of the fork. Considering the time and effort necessary the best price should be a secondary consideration. My first consideration was not to have to go back into the clutch again for another 140K

Danno

" But, anyways it would make the spinning bearing noise (if you know what that sounds like), when I disengaged the clutch (pedal pushed in). Stopped when I released pedal."

That's the pilot-bearing. Definitely replace it when you do the job. Also I would recommend pulling the engine to do the clutch job rather than working your way from the back. You'll save time and have more clearance between the bell-housing and firewall. No need to yank the engine completely out, just drop the crossmember and push the engine foward to clear the driveshaft.

mwc951

I just finished this job(twice) with my '88. The first time
around I didn't check the reference sensor depth closely
enough and sheared the nub off the flywheel. Tore it all
back apart, fixed the flywheel, and all is well.
Danno, you certainly might be right in pulling the engine
is a more straight forward approach! However I didn't
have the room or a hoist.

I got a lightened/balanced OEM flywheel(7.78lbs),
KEP pressure plate, cup disc, rear main seal. pilot bearing,
throw out bearing, fork bearings, FW & PP fasteners and
freight across the country for $1500 from PowerHaus.
Plus another $140 for 4 CV boots & 2 tubes of RedLine CV grease.
$4 for a clutch alignment tool at Advance.
$40 for a new heater valve & hose.

I'm very pleased with the setup. Still taking it easy,
but the car hooks up well--better than before. The pedal
feel is stiffer, but not too stiff for light to light traffic.

mikec944..............My symptoms were IDENTICAL to yours,
search the posts. I tried to rule out everything before
committing to the clutch replacement job. It is a big job,
but very straight forward & well documented. Put you car
on stands and spray everything with Blaster.
Take your time, hopefully your car is not a daily driver so
you can take your time and be patient! Good luck!

This is what I found once I got inside the bell housing.
Note that several of the springs inside the disc housing
are blown apart too.

daniel951

i just got done taking everything part and pulling the engine today. My clutch looked way worse then that i will try to find the pics to post. My clutch was slipping so bad i couldn't even get on boost because it would slip while i was in gear. My flywheel was pretty bad also so i got it turned. One of the hardest job i have done yet been about 4+ days already

mikec944

Wow, I got lucky! After further research into my shifting problem, it ended up being the slave cylinder. That saves some time and money. Have been driving the turbo today for the first time in 1 1/2 months. It feels sooo good.