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I have new rotors and pads to install...and I don't see how the pads come out of the calipers. How do I get those clips out or do the pads come out the bottom after I take the calipers off?
The twin metal "t" shaped wire in the middle of the caliper opening, covering the edge of the rotor, is a spring. It's hinged at the bottom.
Use a wrench (channel locks) to squeeze the middle sections together which will pull the upside down 'U' at the top of this double wire 't' out of a metal catch.
Swing the top down to open, the pads will slide out.
Then remove the caliper from the hub (2 bolts), make sure you don't kink a break line, hang the caliper out of the way, replace your rotor, reinstall the caliper (torque to spec.), install new pads, and close it up by squeezing the wire spring and pushing on the top to catch the metal edge to hold the wire tight. Then flush and bleed the system.
You'll need (want) a piston compressor to compress the pistons before you'll be able to fit new ones. Also helps if you open the pistons a little before sliding the old pads out.
You may want to remove some break fluid from the reservoir before compressing the pistons. I use a turkey baster to remove some fluid. Use a pad compressor similar to the one below.
Might as well get yourself a Motive Products power bleeder so you can replace your old fluid and bleed your brakes. Not expensive and money well spent.
Many thanks for those instructions! I could see that those parts were springs but I couldn't find a way to undo them. A pressure bleeder would be nice, I've used them before, but I will just put my wife to work when I flush out the fluid. I was able to compress both sides of the caliper by doing one side first, then holding it in place with a small wedge, then compressing the other side before removing the rotor.
Bummer...I replaced the rotors and pads, new pads on the rears, then flushed the system with Motul RBF600 brake fluid. Everything felt fine. Left to work out of town for a couple of days, came back and the master cylinder has failed. I've ordered a rebuild kit, could only find a real Porsche master cylinder for $969.00.
My guess is the new fluid flush and the age of the master coupled with no use for about a year caused the seals to fail. Any ideas..or is this not a good brake fluid to use?
It's your wife's fault!
Moving a brake pedal to the floor, beyond its normal "service" range of motion, is likely to cause premature failure of a used master cylinder. The seals, traveling beyond the worn range in the bore, may encounter debris or corrosion built up within the cylinder and be torn or damaged.
Sorry to hear this happened.
With the system empty, the blue clutch hose is another item to change if you haven't already replaced it. They're a common failure point. Clutch slave cylinder would be another 'while you're in there'.
You won't blame anything on your wife if you know what's good for you.
Purchase a Motive break bleeder, it's $60 and you'll use it often enough.
The pedal was fine, high and firm, after installing the parts and flushing the brakes using the speed bleeders. Then when I got back in the car two days later the pedal went to the floor. I could pump it up and get a decent pedal, but after a brief amount of time it would do the same thing. I pulled two wheels off and tried bleeding the brakes using the speed bleeders but I couldn't get much fluid to come out of the rear or front caliper. That seemed like a classic master cylinder failure to me.
I'll take a look for a 'blue clutch hose'. Is that the hydraulic line?
I'm not surprised the master cylinder failed, it is thought to be the original one.
The pedal was fine, high and firm, after installing the parts and flushing the brakes using the speed bleeders. Then when I got back in the car two days later the pedal went to the floor. I could pump it up and get a decent pedal, but after a brief amount of time it would do the same thing. I pulled two wheels off and tried bleeding the brakes using the speed bleeders but I couldn't get much fluid to come out of the rear or front caliper. That seemed like a classic master cylinder failure to me.
I'll take a look for a 'blue clutch hose'. Is that the hydraulic line?
I'm not surprised the master cylinder failed, it is thought to be the original one.
Yes, it's at the back of the engine bay, drivers side, running down towards the center as I recall.
If your brake booster shows any signs of rust around the seam it would be a good time to replace that too.
I rebuilt my calipers years ago and replaced just about all the associated clutch and brake components.
The only blue line I saw was for the rear bleed modification on the head. It runs from the head to the coolant overflow. Once the rebuild kit arrives I'll pull the brake master cylinder out and be able to see a bit more. I agree that it would be a good idea to replace all of the hydraulics on a car of this age.
05-30-2024, 10:32 PM
First time- Front brakes?
