Stone gaurds
#1
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Thread Starter
Stone gaurds
My stone gaurds are all cracked and look real crappy. Can someone walk me through the best way to take these off and the best way to put on new ones. Also, anyone know where you can get the protectors aftermarket and roughly how much?
Many thanks
Many thanks
#2
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A heat gun (or a hair dryer) and a plastic scraper will get them off. Don't be in a hurry though.
Paragon Products sells the set of new ones for around $80 or so.
Paragon Products sells the set of new ones for around $80 or so.
#3
eBay - $73 including shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
gotta get some for myself too!
gotta get some for myself too!
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I screwed up when installing the big one on the right side and had to take it off. I am thinking of leaving ot off permanently. Are these things really necessary?? I mean none of them look like they have been doing much protecting as there are no stone marks on them. Are any of you guys running without them on?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#7
Race Director
I bought some off some ****** on eBay, they didnt fit properly! Curve off a could of mm, so mine are not on now... I have noticed some slight chips in the paint, I would put them on again if I wasnt going to get 968 side skirts in september.
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#8
Burning Brakes
You may wish to consider a spray-on urethane product called Chip Guard by SEM. It is sold in better auto-supply stores that cater to body and paint shops.
It comes in both clear and black, and a ~$14 can is probably enough to do your rocker panels (the main use of this stuff), and everywhere the Stone Guards would go, plus maybe the front part of the hood. What I don't particularly like about Stone Guards (even more than their steep price, difficulty in removal, and yellowing/cracking with age) is the fact that they don't cover some places where rocks are likely to hit, such as leading edge of rear door sill, etc..
I repainted the grill of my Bimmer with black bumper paint, then clear Chip Guard on top of that. Shoulda just used black Chip Guard. Anyhow, happy with it so far.
It comes in both clear and black, and a ~$14 can is probably enough to do your rocker panels (the main use of this stuff), and everywhere the Stone Guards would go, plus maybe the front part of the hood. What I don't particularly like about Stone Guards (even more than their steep price, difficulty in removal, and yellowing/cracking with age) is the fact that they don't cover some places where rocks are likely to hit, such as leading edge of rear door sill, etc..
I repainted the grill of my Bimmer with black bumper paint, then clear Chip Guard on top of that. Shoulda just used black Chip Guard. Anyhow, happy with it so far.
#9
Rennlist Member
Not to sound like a wise *** but that's why they work
" I mean none of them look like they have been doing much protecting as there are no stone marks on them.
They don't scratch.
I was going to replace mine because they are yellowed . Trust me, they work.
I have scuff marks on mine ....
I am really curious what did you install wrong. I don't want to make the same mistake
Thanks in advance
Ed
" I mean none of them look like they have been doing much protecting as there are no stone marks on them.
They don't scratch.
I was going to replace mine because they are yellowed . Trust me, they work.
I have scuff marks on mine ....
I am really curious what did you install wrong. I don't want to make the same mistake
Thanks in advance
Ed
#10
Burning Brakes
Here's another thought: Chip Guard is (or essentially is) the same stuff they sprayed on the rocker panels of your car at the factory. How well has that stuff held up over the years, compared to the Stone Guard-type film applique' the factory put around the lips of the fender wells? If your car is like my '86, probably better. That's why I prefer the Chip Guard spray-on, in addition to being a WHOLE lot cheaper. Also, it can be removed with solvents like Goof Off, as opposed to the mind-numbing tedium of Stone Guard removal.
#11
Couple of thoughts. 3M makes a product that you can put on your drill to take them off. It’s not supposed to damage the paint. I had great success with a heat gun.
Use water with dish soap and make it very soapy. Really wet the area that you want to place your sheet on and then place on your plastic. The soap water mixture will allow you to move the sheet around until you get it where you want it. Then use a rubber squeege (3M Wetordry part number 05618) to squeeze the water (and air bubbles) out from underneath it. Start from the inside/middle and work your way outwards. Finally, slightly warm up the area with an hair dryer. No affiliation with 3M Good luck ed
Use water with dish soap and make it very soapy. Really wet the area that you want to place your sheet on and then place on your plastic. The soap water mixture will allow you to move the sheet around until you get it where you want it. Then use a rubber squeege (3M Wetordry part number 05618) to squeeze the water (and air bubbles) out from underneath it. Start from the inside/middle and work your way outwards. Finally, slightly warm up the area with an hair dryer. No affiliation with 3M Good luck ed
Last edited by ewainwright; 06-29-2004 at 11:07 AM.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I guess I got in a rush and screwed up. Next time around t'll go slow. NZ, I got the same ebay ones. Not too impressed with the way they were cut. Looks like they were cut with scissors.
#14
Rennlist Member
jp944
Tell us how you really feel ? LOL !!
Thanks ewainwright for the info ...
Kinda bumming that the ones on ebay a cut like $hit ...
I guess I will have to get bent over at the dealer.
Are there any other options ????
Thanks in advance
Ed
Tell us how you really feel ? LOL !!
Thanks ewainwright for the info ...
Kinda bumming that the ones on ebay a cut like $hit ...
I guess I will have to get bent over at the dealer.
Are there any other options ????
Thanks in advance
Ed