Aqumist Water Injection with 75MM Throttle Body..Question and oppinions
#1
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Burning Brakes
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From: Orangevale, CA. USA
Aqumist Water Injection with 75MM Throttle Body..Question and oppinions
I bought an aquamist water injection system off e bay for a nice price and I had a few questions on the best location to mount it where it would be coldest....also where to tap the spray nozzle and at what degree
I think about 10 to 13 inches from the throttle body at a 45 degree angle mounted from under to allow for a more dynamic spray.....
and I still think it will work way better with the beauty below rather the stock complication
PS the manifold also came with a 75 MM Edelbrock throttlebody ..they guy had standalone..so I will have to fit a 951 TPS onthe body..a little welding will be in order..I hope the TPS internals will fit well..I really want to use the 75mm TB ..I thknow some sayit doesn't really add but I don't think it will hurt..
I think about 10 to 13 inches from the throttle body at a 45 degree angle mounted from under to allow for a more dynamic spray.....
and I still think it will work way better with the beauty below rather the stock complication
PS the manifold also came with a 75 MM Edelbrock throttlebody ..they guy had standalone..so I will have to fit a 951 TPS onthe body..a little welding will be in order..I hope the TPS internals will fit well..I really want to use the 75mm TB ..I thknow some sayit doesn't really add but I don't think it will hurt..
Last edited by Darius Juca; 05-29-2004 at 10:06 PM.
#3
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You need to have a solid plan of how and why you want water injection, first (you probably do, but needs to be clear).
You'll probably get different opinions here, but for me the best place to tap in the injector nozzle is right after the IC at 90 degree angle to the charge air.
You'll probably get different opinions here, but for me the best place to tap in the injector nozzle is right after the IC at 90 degree angle to the charge air.
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Burning Brakes
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From: Orangevale, CA. USA
you mean the nozzel pointing straight down..I though it was beter to shoot the mist at an anle sort of down the tube so th mist can spread out more ..but it may not matter much..I need the waterinjection to help with mdtonation due to the bad gas we get here in CA..I was thinking to set it at 8 psi since to make sure when I hit 14 psi the mist begins to pump...I am setting it up simple at first untill I get an engine management system..but please if you have any ideas let meknow..also
what do you think about adapting the 951 TPS to the 75 MM Throttle Body?
what do you think about adapting the 951 TPS to the 75 MM Throttle Body?
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
No, you want to mount the injector 90 degrees to the flow of air for best results.
Also, you can run a dual injector system. 1 injector before the IC (acts as a IC cooler also) and the 2nd one right beofre the throttle body.
The Aquamist pump has plenty of power to run two injectors. You have one come on at 8-10 psi, then the 2nd at 14-15 psi.
Also, you can run a dual injector system. 1 injector before the IC (acts as a IC cooler also) and the 2nd one right beofre the throttle body.
The Aquamist pump has plenty of power to run two injectors. You have one come on at 8-10 psi, then the 2nd at 14-15 psi.
#7
Be careful with water injection. You can get very high exhaust temperatures if you do not advance ignition.
Water is to be injected so that it enters in liquid form and not evaporated.
Bengt
Water is to be injected so that it enters in liquid form and not evaporated.
Bengt
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#8
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From: Orangevale, CA. USA
man o man so many options..
1 now wich size nozzle should I use on the one before ic and wich size in the one before throttle body...
Todd , about Bengt's comment(thank you Bengt) how would I be sure that my DME/KLR does have the right timing..I would think if the KLR does not detect knock and with the vitesse chips set on FQS 1( is 1 for best fuel?) I shoudl be fine..whatcha think!!
1 now wich size nozzle should I use on the one before ic and wich size in the one before throttle body...
Todd , about Bengt's comment(thank you Bengt) how would I be sure that my DME/KLR does have the right timing..I would think if the KLR does not detect knock and with the vitesse chips set on FQS 1( is 1 for best fuel?) I shoudl be fine..whatcha think!!
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Here is where you really should put your nozzle(s). This ensures even distribution between cylinders and at least partial liquid injection, with minimal displacement of oxygen. It could be said that with more air (oxygen) ingested, more fuel is added and therefore more heat is generated, but the net effect is a reduction of the exhaust temperature from the 540 cal/g of evaporated water.
Don’t forget the steam cleaning effect of water injection. This keeps the intake valves clean (less flow restriction) and minimizes (carbon) hotspots in the combustion chamber.
I have driven and raced with this system for more than 6 months and it makes it possible to routinely run 25 psi and 30 psi on occasion. When Danno gets time to tweak the fuel curve (with custom GURU chips) at 5000 rpm and above, I will put it on a dyno.
Although I am at a loss to fully explain the effect, I am quite sure that the water helps generate boost well beyond 30 psi unless properly controlled by the wastegate. The boost almost jumps from 15 psi to 25 psi (or whatever the max boost is set at).
Laust
Don’t forget the steam cleaning effect of water injection. This keeps the intake valves clean (less flow restriction) and minimizes (carbon) hotspots in the combustion chamber.
I have driven and raced with this system for more than 6 months and it makes it possible to routinely run 25 psi and 30 psi on occasion. When Danno gets time to tweak the fuel curve (with custom GURU chips) at 5000 rpm and above, I will put it on a dyno.
Although I am at a loss to fully explain the effect, I am quite sure that the water helps generate boost well beyond 30 psi unless properly controlled by the wastegate. The boost almost jumps from 15 psi to 25 psi (or whatever the max boost is set at).
Laust
Last edited by Laust Pedersen; 01-14-2013 at 03:32 PM.
#12
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Darius Juca,
I told you were going to get alot of opinions.
I'm going to gamble that I don't offend anybody here. The majority of responses are from those who are repeating what they have read. Some actually install kits, and then nod their heads in acknowledgement that the water injection is doing what it's supposed to be doing, wheather there is a power increase or not.
I've been running an injection system for about 4 years now, trying different setups, and have therefore done the real research.
By the way that's what we want to achieve, right? More power. Not just the ability to run more boost; because just because you run more boost doesn't always mean you're making more power.
Couple of notes to previous posts:
It's true what Bengt said: you want to make sure you have proper ignition advance. However, if you don't, your EGTs will not go up drastically; you just wont maximise your power.
Your kit should come with a few different sizes of nozzles. The aquamist pump will not support two nozzles unless you're using the smallest nozzles (.4 mm). If you use bigger nozzles there will be not enough pressure for proper atomization. There is no advantage to injecting in more than one location, anyway.
Which brings me to the most important point, which is contrary to what you've already read in this thread. You absolutely want full evaporation of the water (therefore displacing air but increasing density) before the charge gets to the cylinder head. This will give you the best combination of power and anti-detonation. Raw water going into the cylinder is ....well....water. It puts out fires. Technically, flame speeds reduce dramatically and the energy that's supposed to push the piston down goes into evaporating the excess water. Sure, you can run all kinds of boost with no detonation, but you're not going to get the full power potential that the extra boost is supposed to give.
I told you were going to get alot of opinions.
I'm going to gamble that I don't offend anybody here. The majority of responses are from those who are repeating what they have read. Some actually install kits, and then nod their heads in acknowledgement that the water injection is doing what it's supposed to be doing, wheather there is a power increase or not.
I've been running an injection system for about 4 years now, trying different setups, and have therefore done the real research.
By the way that's what we want to achieve, right? More power. Not just the ability to run more boost; because just because you run more boost doesn't always mean you're making more power.
Couple of notes to previous posts:
It's true what Bengt said: you want to make sure you have proper ignition advance. However, if you don't, your EGTs will not go up drastically; you just wont maximise your power.
Your kit should come with a few different sizes of nozzles. The aquamist pump will not support two nozzles unless you're using the smallest nozzles (.4 mm). If you use bigger nozzles there will be not enough pressure for proper atomization. There is no advantage to injecting in more than one location, anyway.
Which brings me to the most important point, which is contrary to what you've already read in this thread. You absolutely want full evaporation of the water (therefore displacing air but increasing density) before the charge gets to the cylinder head. This will give you the best combination of power and anti-detonation. Raw water going into the cylinder is ....well....water. It puts out fires. Technically, flame speeds reduce dramatically and the energy that's supposed to push the piston down goes into evaporating the excess water. Sure, you can run all kinds of boost with no detonation, but you're not going to get the full power potential that the extra boost is supposed to give.
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From: South Pasadena, CA
Darius
just go here, www.turbobuick.com on the forum there is a section
totally devoted to this, it's listed under alcohol injection.
grand national owners do this all the time and these guys will be more than happy to help you out...lots of experience over there.
most turbo buicks running alcohol injection can safely run 22 lbs. on pump gas.
let us know how it turns out, it's on my list of things to do as well.
just go here, www.turbobuick.com on the forum there is a section
totally devoted to this, it's listed under alcohol injection.
grand national owners do this all the time and these guys will be more than happy to help you out...lots of experience over there.
most turbo buicks running alcohol injection can safely run 22 lbs. on pump gas.
let us know how it turns out, it's on my list of things to do as well.
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Darius,
In lieu of port injection I would locate and angle the nozzles so the maximum amount of water has evaporated before it reaches the manifold in order to get even distribution to the cylinders. The heavier water droplets do not turn corners as easily as air. Specifically I would put the nozzle close to the exit of the intercooler, in order to get the maximum calories extracted from the IC as well.
When we talk about boost, it almost always refers to the manifold pressure. My experience is that the induction system easily can handle +40 psi, but it is the combustion process that needs to be cooled. There is just no way that high power can be generated without high peak combustion pressure and if no additional cooling is applied, the combination of high pressure and temperature in the combustion chamber will do damage (blown head gasket, burnt valves, glowing exhaust and turbo, etc.) additionally knock control will be almost impossible (with pump gas). If you look closely at Aquamist’s website you’ll see that water injection also has the benefit of smoothing out the pressure profile without loosing torque.
What I am saying is: fear not high boost, but fear high temperature in the combustion chamber.
The above is obviously under the assumption of optimized AFR, timing and general good mechanical condition of engine.
Laust
In lieu of port injection I would locate and angle the nozzles so the maximum amount of water has evaporated before it reaches the manifold in order to get even distribution to the cylinders. The heavier water droplets do not turn corners as easily as air. Specifically I would put the nozzle close to the exit of the intercooler, in order to get the maximum calories extracted from the IC as well.
When we talk about boost, it almost always refers to the manifold pressure. My experience is that the induction system easily can handle +40 psi, but it is the combustion process that needs to be cooled. There is just no way that high power can be generated without high peak combustion pressure and if no additional cooling is applied, the combination of high pressure and temperature in the combustion chamber will do damage (blown head gasket, burnt valves, glowing exhaust and turbo, etc.) additionally knock control will be almost impossible (with pump gas). If you look closely at Aquamist’s website you’ll see that water injection also has the benefit of smoothing out the pressure profile without loosing torque.
What I am saying is: fear not high boost, but fear high temperature in the combustion chamber.
The above is obviously under the assumption of optimized AFR, timing and general good mechanical condition of engine.
Laust