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Apologize if I missed it, but if you haven’t yet, upgrade to the 968 caster blocks. They eliminated my highway shimmy. A huge improvement for making the car smoother. Plus needed if you have 17” plus wheels.
I got mine from Elephant Racing. Highly recommended.
Hi There,
I did forget to mention that I have the Elephant Racing caster block. You're absolutely right, They made a big difference. Thank you for the reminder.
I wanted to share my recent experience with the installation of KWs V3 coilovers paired with the special-order KW High Performance springs. Here's a breakdown of the setup:
Regarding the debate about rear coilover rates, both Paragon and Racers Edge confirmed an effective rate of 0.56 for the rear and 0.94 for the front.
Front: KW 45-250 (257) pound 10-inch spring (241 effective rate)
Rear: KW 70-200 (400) pound 8-inch spring (238 effective rate)
This setup is approximately 30% firmer than the factory M030 suspension, which should be ideal for spirited street driving. I opted for slightly softer springs than the standard KW offerings and decided against using helper springs due to the longer springs and T-bar delete setup.
I also have adjustable front camber strut top mounts and adjustable sway bars (28mm front and Weltmiester rear) to fine-tune the balance of the car.
The installation process was relatively straightforward. I began with the rear, removing the standard KW springs and helpers and replacing them with the 8-inch springs. I adjusted the preload to approximately 1.5 inches to meet KW specifications. With my wheel and tire combination, the distance from the ground to the rear quarter lip measures 25.5 inches in the rear and 25.25 in the front. I utilized the KW hardware in the rear, as the stock bolts were noticeably shorter.
Moving to the front, I repeated the process by replacing the standard KW spring and helper with longer 10-inch springs. This adjustment placed the preload in the middle of the adjustment range for both front and rear. I utilized the stock hardware in the front, along with new Porsche locking nuts to avoid any potential melting issues that KW V3 locking nuts have, and were not used in this installation.
For the front setup, I adjusted the factory settings to maximum neg camber and set the top adjustable camber plates to max positive camber, resulting in approximately neg 1 degree of camber. The dampers came preset from KW with baseline shock settings straight out of the box, providing an optimal starting point for adjustments. Overall, the installation process went smoothly, and I'm pleased with the initial setup.
As for the driving experience, the transformation is remarkable. My 951 feels like a new car – smooth and comfortable on rough roads, yet firm and responsive in the twisties. No more rattles or squeaks, just pure driving pleasure. I plan on fine-tuning the settings for bump and compression to further enhance the ride quality to the softer side.
On a side note, I've recently parted ways with some ultra-rare rear Porsche factory Turbo cup Koni double-adjustable coilovers and MO30 Porsche factory Koni front coilovers to a fellow enthusiast for his project.
Overall, I couldn't be happier with the results. If anyone has questions or wants to chat about Porsche suspension setups, feel free to reach out.
Very nice, Im considering the KWs for my build. Mostly just swapping them in as they come and adding updated caster blocks so I can install 17 in wheels.
You are using softer rear springs than KW supply, and you've removed the torsion bars? And as for KW plastic nuts melting, where have you got that idea from?
You are using softer rear springs than KW supply, and you've removed the torsion bars? And as for KW plastic nuts melting, where have you got that idea from?
Great to hear from you again. Regarding your questions, yes, I did indeed special order softer and longer springs from KW's high-performance catalog. I opted not to go with the standard springs straight out of the box.
As for the rear torsion bar delete, the 951 I purchased already had it deleted when I bought it.
I recall reading some posts about the issue with KW-supplied lock nuts with plastic locking inserts, and it might have been you who shared that information. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.
I've come across a few posts where people have mentioned experiencing heat-related issues with the hardware from KW, particularly at the track. This heat seems to have led to the nuts loosening, which in turn affected the camber setting.
I've come across a few posts where people have mentioned experiencing heat-related issues with the hardware from KW, particularly at the track. This heat seems to have led to the nuts loosening, which in turn affected the camber setting.
There is a sort of housing to an eccentric bolt that needed welding up if I remember correctly. Also the KW camber plates weren't great both from a design and structural standpoint. But the ride quality for both smooth and bumpy is the best I've encountered for a street to street / track car. I don't recall any 'plastic locking inserts' though.
There is a sort of housing to an eccentric bolt that needed welding up if I remember correctly. Also the KW camber plates weren't great both from a design and structural standpoint. But the ride quality for both smooth and bumpy is the best I've encountered for a street to street / track car. I don't recall any 'plastic locking inserts' though.
I meant the locking nuts that have plastic, Some say the melt when at the track from heat.
Hey everyone, it’s been a while! I’ve been busy working on my 944 Turbo lately and wanted to share my latest upgrade. I got a pair of sport seats and had Larts recover them. They were initially for the 944 Turbo, but I decided to install them in my 965 instead. Now, my 944 Turbo has my old sport seats in it. One thing I noticed is that the old seats feel nice and comfortable, all broken in, while the new ones feel firmer. The sport seats totally changed the driving experience. Every thing I do to this 951 makes me fall more in love with it. I had someone offer $35k for it, the asking price before the sports seats. Is worth more now? hmmm , Maybe ( still waiting for the deposit)
I wanted to share an update on my 951. I had considered selling the car but hesitated due to an oil consumption issue. According to the owner's manual, 1 to 1.5 liters per 1000 kilometers (650 Miles) is considered normal. My 951 was consuming 1 quart every 450 miles, which felt excessive compared to my base 944, which only uses half a quart every 3000 miles. I didn't feel right selling the car with this concern unresolved.
The last time I owned a 944 Turbo was in 1990, and since then, I've mainly had air-cooled Porsches. I wasn't expecting the manual to suggest such oil consumption was normal. Initially, the car used 1 quart every 250 miles with Mobil 1 15w50. On Chris's recommendation at IMA Motorwerks, I switched to Valvoline 20w50, which brought it within the manual's spec. The previous owner had a modified oil pan with a flap for racing, with no oil level sensor because of that, I was always checking the oil.
Despite no visible blue smoke on startup or hard acceleration, no oil leaks, and no oil in the coolant, the car still seemed to be burning oil. I noticed soot around the exhaust, possibly from running rich. The throttle response was also a bit sluggish compared to my 964 Turbo, though the car takes off like a rocket once the turbo spools up. I'm was curious if this is just a characteristic of these engines or if there's something more.
Here’s what I found after some investigation:
I thoroughly inspected the engine with a flashlight and endoscope—no external leaks.
I checked the intercooler pipes and air intake for the turbo and all the hoses. There was only a faint smear of oil, no liquid. No signs of turbo bearing issues, as the boost feels solid.
I pulled the spark plugs (Bosch WR7DC) after 1300 miles. They seemed coked up, covered in oil.
A leak-down test showed 4-6% across all cylinders, with no significant leakage. The compression test read 140 psi, with cylinder No.4 at 135 psi, which had the most carbon deposits. My guess was valve stem seals, replaced back in February, might be the issue since everything else seemed fine. I tried and piston soak and flushed the engine but with no success However, the oil consumption worsened a little over time without visible smoke or leaks.
In June I decided to take the engine apart After further inspection, I found the valve guides were worn out, particularly on cylinder No.4. I had them replaced, along with Inconel exhaust valves from Lindsey Racing. I also found blow-by on the cylinders, so I decided to replace the piston rings with Porsche factory rings $$, which took 2 months to arrive from Germany. and install ACL HP rod bearings while I had the oil pan off. The cylinders had no scoring, Thank God ! The K27.8 turbo was rebuilt with a new turbine wheel and shaft, and I also replaced the motor mounts with Porsche Factory units and the AOS. I even installed a 4-degree advanced timing keyway on the cam. And a new old stock 951 oil pan with a oil level sensor. and a new Bosch alternator and head studs.
With a fresh head, new rings, a rebuilt turbo, and a new AOS, I hope this resolves the oil consumption issue. Did I miss anything?
For the break-in, I'm using Driven BR50 break-in oil. I started the car on Sunday, July 28, 2024, and I'm pleased to report that it fired up without issues. I've driven about 50 miles so far.
I will update with the oil consumption in a few months. I will post pictures soon. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and any advice you might have on the break in.
03-26-2024, 12:17 PM
