Blocking ports on intake after ISV delete.
#1
Racer
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Blocking ports on intake after ISV delete.
Last night I just finished replacing all my vacuum lines with Lindseys kit. I got rid of the Venturi mess as well as the ISV. I used the updated vacuum diagram without any problems. Im wondering what people are using as a plug for the open port on the manifold that the ISV used to connect to?? Also I need another plug for the IC pipe connecting to the throttle body. Suggestions???
The car runs great but as I expected the idle was rough on startup. Once the engine warmed up the idle was fine as long as I keep my thumbs on the 2 open ports.
What are the steps for dialing in the idle using the screw at the top of the throttle body (forget name)? I have sometime before it gets cold here in Boston but I would like to know the proceedure anyway.
Tonight Ill have her out for a road test and see how she drives.
BTW... I have the banjo bolt going to the LBE and then directly to the wastegate. Is this the proper way to have it set up? Just checking......
Thanks,
-Ted
Black 89 Turbo
The car runs great but as I expected the idle was rough on startup. Once the engine warmed up the idle was fine as long as I keep my thumbs on the 2 open ports.
What are the steps for dialing in the idle using the screw at the top of the throttle body (forget name)? I have sometime before it gets cold here in Boston but I would like to know the proceedure anyway.
Tonight Ill have her out for a road test and see how she drives.
BTW... I have the banjo bolt going to the LBE and then directly to the wastegate. Is this the proper way to have it set up? Just checking......
Thanks,
-Ted
Black 89 Turbo
#2
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Plugging the ISV/Manifold Port
Ted,
Since you're not using the rubber hose that used to go from the manifold to the ISV, you could just cut it off about 1 inch away from the manifold nipple and then find something to insert into the hose to use as a plug. Perhaps a piece of round delrin or some other material that will not degrade over time.
Alternately, try this website: http://www.caplugs.com
They are the source of caps and plugs in all shapes and sizes!
Best Regards,
Greg W.
Since you're not using the rubber hose that used to go from the manifold to the ISV, you could just cut it off about 1 inch away from the manifold nipple and then find something to insert into the hose to use as a plug. Perhaps a piece of round delrin or some other material that will not degrade over time.
Alternately, try this website: http://www.caplugs.com
They are the source of caps and plugs in all shapes and sizes!
Best Regards,
Greg W.
#3
Racer
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I was thinking about that but incase my ISV delete option doesn't work when it gets cold, I would like to have the ISV and its hoses fully intact and ready to go back in.
Ill check that WWW page.....thanks
Ill check that WWW page.....thanks
#4
In cold Boston weather, I can assure you that your car will NOT idle without the ISV. When mine died two winters ago, I had to hold my foot on the gas pedal just to start it then keep it there to keep it running. It was a pain in the *** that lasted for about a week (until I had time to swap in a good spare). Be prepared to want to reinstall it.
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Racer
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Joe...Thanks for the info.
I store my car over the winter. Never start her at all during the winter months. From December till April she is hybernating. I know that the temp still drops considerably in November but Ill give it a try and if it pisses me off enough I will put it back.
I still thought that there was a way to adjust the screw at the top of the throttle body to help this a little???? NO?????
TED
I store my car over the winter. Never start her at all during the winter months. From December till April she is hybernating. I know that the temp still drops considerably in November but Ill give it a try and if it pisses me off enough I will put it back.
I still thought that there was a way to adjust the screw at the top of the throttle body to help this a little???? NO?????
TED
#7
Race Director
We get pretty cold here, around 0 at times in the winter, and my car idles fine, not sure how cold your winters are there. Here is an idea Ted, make a banjo fitting for the manifold port, that way you dont have an ugly cap and have a good source of pressure for your BOV or whatever...
Darius, Danno deleted his and put it back as he had idle issues I think. Do you have A/C? It will rev much lower with that on.
Darius, Danno deleted his and put it back as he had idle issues I think. Do you have A/C? It will rev much lower with that on.
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#8
By turning the screw on the throttle body out, you can raise your idle. This MAY help a little in the winter (probably more helpful for running a/c). With the idle stabilizer out of the loop, you can adjust that screw at will without messing anything up. With the stabilizer in the loop, you need to disable it first. Keep in mind, the DME cuts the fuel at 1500 rpms when the idle switch is tripped. So you're limited to about 1400 rpms idle speed before things start getting wacky. I'm not sure if that's enough to get the car idling in the dead of winter or not.
Winters on the east coast can go down to -10F (-23C) regularly. 0C (32F) is probably ok for not having an ISV as NZ951 has found. What's a CA winter like (stupid east coaster question)?
Winters on the east coast can go down to -10F (-23C) regularly. 0C (32F) is probably ok for not having an ISV as NZ951 has found. What's a CA winter like (stupid east coaster question)?
#9
Burning Brakes
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winter in CA never gets lower than 20 fahrenheit and that is damn cold!!! Andrew I still have my AC but never run it..I may have to this summer..supposed to be one of the hottest ever....
I would hate to drill a hole in the new manifold..for the ISV....oh well we'll see..
I would hate to drill a hole in the new manifold..for the ISV....oh well we'll see..
#10
Race Director
Run it for a while and see how you go, thats the best decision, its not like you have to make these significant changes to the system either way. I think I am going to delete my A/C soon. Need the space for my intake.
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Joe.......Thanks for the info on adjusting the idle screw. I keep that in mind when the time comes.
NZ951....Thats a good idea about connecting the BOV to directly to the manifold. I wonder how I could use the open ISV port. Its kinda big for the 5/32 hose that fits on top of the BOV. Any ideas????
How else could I use this available vacuum port???
TED
NZ951....Thats a good idea about connecting the BOV to directly to the manifold. I wonder how I could use the open ISV port. Its kinda big for the 5/32 hose that fits on top of the BOV. Any ideas????
How else could I use this available vacuum port???
TED
#13
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Darius, Danno is in SoCal and reported the engine dying on cold startup, but that a foot on the throttle to hold it at higher RPM for about a minute of warmup was all it needed to get warm enough to stay running without the ISV. Not a hassle I'm willing to deal with on a street car, and why I don't recommend deleting it.
Sam
Sam
#14
Race Director
Darius, I dont have to do this on my car. It ildes fine from startup, no having to feather the throttle at all. However I have a Link controlling fuel at idle, so I guess I may have somewhat tuned it out by going richer. You know this, but it idles at 650ish stone cold, and 850-900ish warm (about 1-2mins later). Given the somewhat mixed results, though Danno is the first I have heard of that has to physically hold higher revs when cold, just try it and see, you are already setup for the ISV delete so do that config first.
#15
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NZ951....Your car behaves exactly like mine with the ISV deleted. 650 stone cold and 900ish warm.
I did turn the screw at the top of the throttle body and it did nothing?? The idle didn't change at all. I gave it 1 complete turn in both directions and nothing happened.......
I did turn the screw at the top of the throttle body and it did nothing?? The idle didn't change at all. I gave it 1 complete turn in both directions and nothing happened.......