idle is too high: tach says it idles around 1100. Idle is smooth though. It doesn’t like the throttle at all but it revs more readily in neutral.

I’ll give the ref and speed connectors a wiggle tomorrow for funsies.

 

@kev951
fixed it!

curiosity overcame me and I moved the black A/F R CCW 7 clicks. It ran so much better that I did a little dance with glee. Then I moved it five more clicks CCW and drove some more and ended up adjusting back 2 clicks to stay at 10 clicks CCW (recording this for posterity) and it runs like it should have all along.

I’ll bet one of the previous owner’s mechanics screwed it up when they went and messed with the AFM.

I'm going to check the actual A/F ratio at work tomorrow on the dyno and try to get it closer to spot on.

 

Have you pressurized the intake to check for air leaks?? Very possible for a line to come off after the hoses were replaced.

 

Nice find @ACBSea , just know that the AFM ideally should never be tampered with; it should be set from the factory, sealed, and stay that way. I suspect the car may have had problems passing CA smog failing for high NOx or high CO (to lean or too rich) so the tech tried to make a correction via the afm wheel. Generally that's a no no which is why on my first reply my suggestion was to find a good used and un modified/molested afm. Usually the first way to adjust the CO mixture is to turn the adjustment screw in the AFM which is sealed by an aluminum plug on the AFM housing. So techs would drill out the plug and then adjust CO mixture screw with an exhaust gas analyzer measured at the CO test port on the exhaust. Turning the actual AFM wheel can open up a huge can of worms but in this case, it was your savior as the previous tech or PO messed with it.

 

now that it’s running more or less like it should I’m going to focus on engine upgrades and fine tuning it to run better. This might include upgrading the intercooler and hoses eventually. Right now it runs pretty darn good

 

I can’t say with absolute certainty that the AFM was messed with but I swear that I won’t touch it again

it seems to run well. I’m happy with that. I need to smog it now to change ownership.

 

if the lid came off without you having to cut it off and it was just sitting loose, or if the co mixture adjustment bolt is visible, (should be sealed with an aluminum plug) it has been messed with 100%. I recommend doing a pre test first to get some baseline readings unless you have access to a dyno with an exhaust gas analyzer and can do as you please with it.

 

The lid was off and loose when I first saw it. It had most definitely been tampered with prior to my ownership.
The car is scheduled for a pre-test tomorrow for baseline readings.

I did purchase a new AFM from GermanAutoParts.com,Mark called me back this morning and said he has a few new-in-box ones that were original part suppliers for Porsche. I bought one just to get the tampered one out of the car.

I also ordered a wideband oxygen sensor setup for it that should be here later this week so I can monitor A/F ratio in real time.

 

just know that the donor narrow band is in charge of telling the ecu what to do with the mixture, so you might want to do a sanity test on the original sensor to make sure it is on a switching from lean to rich constantly once the engine is warmed up. (not during cold startup as the fuel system will still be in open loop during cold start and the sensor value will be fixed). You will need a good multimeter to capture this.

 

I have a new Bosch oxygen sensor on order as well, should be here tomorrow. I'll check the new one for warmed up function for sanity.

 

Fixed!

I ended up installed a new Bosch (951 606 121 01) AFM that I bought from GermanAutoParts dot com and installed a new oxygen sensor.
It runs much better and the smog numbers came out clean.

Much happier than I was when I got it.
Now to enjoy it

 

woohoo!!!