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Got a baseline dyno run today...

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Old 05-04-2004, 12:26 PM
  #31  
Matt H
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However a manual boost controller is a better approach...

John - I know that you are a well respected tuner but I have to disagree. I think this is a recipe for disaster with the APE setup unless you swap the chips. The main complaint from people is not the rich midrange but the lean upper limits (at least what I have seen). I dont think there is any way you can extract max power out of the 951 with the APE product but you can have a reliable amount because the chips are built that way. Not max power but good power at a reliable level.

FWIW - I think we are thinking the same thing. IPSC is not going to be able to tune this on his own without a lot of help. There appears to be a problem with the car (other than the APE stuff) as it is not making enough boost and runs far too rich. The dyno numbers are very low but without a graph all is speculation and shots in the dark.
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Old 05-04-2004, 12:33 PM
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Peckster
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I don't agree running rich washes the cylinder walls. It's a rich mixture, not liquid gas. The worst it will do is foul plugs. Mine's running rich and the plugs look fine.
Old 05-04-2004, 12:52 PM
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Bengt Sweden
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I was thinking the same. I have only heard of cylinder wall washing on idle. Have anyone here actually experienced this when running rich in midrange? I would assume that some small amount of extra gas is evapourated and purged, just think about the temperatures involved.
(Not that I think it is a good idea)
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Old 05-04-2004, 12:54 PM
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Originally posted by Matt H
However a manual boost controller is a better approach...

John - I know that you are a well respected tuner but I have to disagree. I think this is a recipe for disaster with the APE setup unless you swap the chips. The main complaint from people is not the rich midrange but the lean upper limits (at least what I have seen). I dont think there is any way you can extract max power out of the 951 with the APE product but you can have a reliable amount because the chips are built that way. Not max power but good power at a reliable level.

MattH, I think you took my statement out of context. A manual boost controller is a better method of boost control that changing jets (restrictors) in the bonjo bolt...

However the AFR must be correct across the RPM.. Is it possible to get perfect AFR with APE chips?? I think we agree on the answer!!!
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Old 05-04-2004, 01:38 PM
  #35  
Matt H
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John, I think we probably do. I think you still missed what I was saying. Perfect AFR is kind of a misnomer anyhow (I know you know that). However perfect AFR is just a misfire or malfunction from detonation and breakdown. The APE products are a little rich because that dials in some safety. If he was running 15psi (like the chips are designed for IIRC) then it should not be anywhere near this rich. I think we both agree that there are probably multiple problems in this case.

I did say above that there is no way you will make max power from the APE setup. And I also think we agree as to why.
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Old 05-04-2004, 04:32 PM
  #36  
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I am certainly not an expert in the same way that many of these others are, but I made the switch from APE to Guru a few months ago. I wanted to switch to a MBC because I was getting boost around 17-18psi with the jetted banjo bolt. I assumed it was a weak WG, but I wasn't sure. Regardless of the cause, I wanted to have more control over the boost.

I also noticed that I was running a little lean on top and rich in the middle according to my Lindsey A/F gauge. It definitely didn't feel smooth. I don't know that it is a bad map overall, but it certainly wasn't matching my car and boost level

So I switched to Guru + Reliaboost...world of difference. Not only was it more powerful, it was also considerably smoother. My A/F was closer throughout and my idle was smoother too. I had more power below boost, too.

I know there is a little more power and smoothness to be had if I went with a piggyback. Just haven't taken the plunge.

I would suggest doing one of these three things:

1. Stock airbox + stock chips + stock boost
2. Stock airbox + Guru/Vitesse chips + MBC/Reliaboost
3. MAF kit with piggyback (Vitesse, SFR, Lindsey, etc.)

Good luck!

Max
Old 05-04-2004, 05:09 PM
  #37  
NZ951
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I have a 3 bar FPR Bosch you can have cheap... used for a week, black in colour.
Old 05-04-2004, 07:03 PM
  #38  
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I have an adjustable FPR and a fuel rail gauge so that isn't a concern. Here is what I am going to do. Get the FPR in and see what fuel pressure I actually have in the rail. For stock injectors Is 36 lbs right? Then get a boost meter in to see what I am reallly running for boost and go through all of the vacum lines and hunt for leaks.

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Old 05-04-2004, 07:14 PM
  #39  
Danno
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There are three different APE MAFs with three different calibrations. They they have a corresponding matching chip. These are mapped for the stock K26 turbos and APE doesn't distinguish between the K26/6 and K26/8. I think they just dump in a little extra fuel and kinda blend both of them together. Going up to a K27 chip, they actually don't have it customized for the particular MAF sensor anymore. They just dump in 15-25% more fuel than the K26 chips. This might be why you're seeing such a rich mixture because the K27 actually has a little more lag than teh K26, thus lower flow and requiring LESS fuel in some of the chip's fuel cells. Then there's also the difference in flow-rates betwen a K27/6 and a K27/8... ahh... so many variables...

If you want to just give me some air-fuel ratios in 500rpm incremetns, I can get you a fully-optimised chip for your configuration. That's what we did on Ski's (Bret) car a couple years ago when he took out his Lindsey-363 kit and installed a K27.



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