Wideband Questions
#1
Burning Brakes
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I'm looking at the AEM X Series Gauge but have some questions:
1) Can I install the wideband sensor in the OE port and then run a narrowband signal out of the controller to my ECU? I could have sworn this was possible when I looked at AEM's site in the past but now I can't find it. Are there reasons not to run a single sensor for both wideband and narrow ECU?
2) Does the stock O2 bung match the AEM requirements of 12" to 36" downstream from the turbo and more than 10 degrees from horizontal? I seem to remember the angle to be almost horizontal or 0 degrees
3) Is the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor troublesome? I've read much about this sensor failing and causing problems; are these true?
4) Are there better options for a wideband?
Many thanks....
1) Can I install the wideband sensor in the OE port and then run a narrowband signal out of the controller to my ECU? I could have sworn this was possible when I looked at AEM's site in the past but now I can't find it. Are there reasons not to run a single sensor for both wideband and narrow ECU?
2) Does the stock O2 bung match the AEM requirements of 12" to 36" downstream from the turbo and more than 10 degrees from horizontal? I seem to remember the angle to be almost horizontal or 0 degrees
3) Is the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor troublesome? I've read much about this sensor failing and causing problems; are these true?
4) Are there better options for a wideband?
Many thanks....
#2
Burning Brakes
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Working from memory....
As I recall, the factory O2 sensor is upstream of the turbo, and not the ideal location with the backpressure it's subject to.
Someone please correct me if I've misstated...
Not sure about the AEM, but the Innovate system I used before could output the signal in the narrow band range as well.
I'm using the AEM X now, it integrates directly with their Infinity ECU. Seems OK to me.... but how would I really know?
Have no personal data to back it up but colleagues from another shop swear by Ballenger.
As I recall, the factory O2 sensor is upstream of the turbo, and not the ideal location with the backpressure it's subject to.
Someone please correct me if I've misstated...
Not sure about the AEM, but the Innovate system I used before could output the signal in the narrow band range as well.
I'm using the AEM X now, it integrates directly with their Infinity ECU. Seems OK to me.... but how would I really know?
Have no personal data to back it up but colleagues from another shop swear by Ballenger.
#3
Pro
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I copied LR and had a 2nd bung welded in.
https:/www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/WBO2LOCATION.html
My AEM 02 sensor died after a few months. I haven’t bothered to replace it since my engine is stock.
I really like my AEM. If I need to do some diagnostic work I will replace the sensor.
https:/www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/WBO2LOCATION.html
My AEM 02 sensor died after a few months. I haven’t bothered to replace it since my engine is stock.
I really like my AEM. If I need to do some diagnostic work I will replace the sensor.
#5
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#7
Three Wheelin'
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Be careful snagging power from other sensors. I needed 5 volts and tapped into the 5 volts going to the Air Flow Meter. Everything seemed fine and I moved on. Sometime later (I wasn't driving the car a lot at the time) I noticed my car was going lean under boost. I checked my AFM, my fuel injectors, fuel pressure/pump and anything else I could possibly think of. Then I remembered that i tapped the AFM 5v from the DME. I removed the tap and my AFR's went back to normal. I'm not saying you will have these problems, just saying what happened to me.
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#8
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It is likely that you accidentally tapped into the AFM output wire rather than the +5V supply from the DME. Pretty much any factory DME/ECU setup old or new uses one or more dedicated +5V output pins, with a common feed to all of the sensors that operate on +5V, but with a separate, dedicated pin in the DME for each of the sensor inputs.
#9
Instructor
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DME pin #9 is the regulated +5V reference for the AFM. It only goes to the AFM. It is not an unlimited source of +5V current so you have to be careful what you connect to that pin.
Most MAF conversions swap the AFM for a MAF and MAP sensor. The MAP sensor gets its power from DME pin #9. Most of the common MAP sensors in use draw similar amounts of 5V current to the AFM so it works out OK. I have logged this reference voltage while it powers a GM 3 bar MAP sensor in my car. It stays rock steady under all driving conditions.
Most MAF conversions swap the AFM for a MAF and MAP sensor. The MAP sensor gets its power from DME pin #9. Most of the common MAP sensors in use draw similar amounts of 5V current to the AFM so it works out OK. I have logged this reference voltage while it powers a GM 3 bar MAP sensor in my car. It stays rock steady under all driving conditions.
#10
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DME pin #9 is the regulated +5V reference for the AFM. It only goes to the AFM. It is not an unlimited source of +5V current so you have to be careful what you connect to that pin.
Most MAF conversions swap the AFM for a MAF and MAP sensor. The MAP sensor gets its power from DME pin #9. Most of the common MAP sensors in use draw similar amounts of 5V current to the AFM so it works out OK. I have logged this reference voltage while it powers a GM 3 bar MAP sensor in my car. It stays rock steady under all driving conditions.
Most MAF conversions swap the AFM for a MAF and MAP sensor. The MAP sensor gets its power from DME pin #9. Most of the common MAP sensors in use draw similar amounts of 5V current to the AFM so it works out OK. I have logged this reference voltage while it powers a GM 3 bar MAP sensor in my car. It stays rock steady under all driving conditions.
Last edited by dme; 07-30-2021 at 06:37 PM.
#11
Burning Brakes
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I guess that kills the idea of running a single sensor unless just running from the AFR sensor but that seems a bit pointless. Does the 951 OEM narrow band sensor have trouble with the pressures of where it is located? I'm guessing no but figured it was worth an ask...