stripped a bolt inside cam housing. sweet!
#18
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If you want to try the cold method mentioned before, get some birchwood casey "Gun Scrubber" I wouldn't go crazy with it as it will clean any grease or oil off whatever it comes into contact with, but it will turn that metal pretty darn cold. I would think that a titanium tip bit would be able to drill into a hardened key with a really small bit, but then you take the chance of busting a drill bit and loosing it inside the cam housing.
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Don't use a carbide or titanium nitride bit for that. It's tool steel, use a cobalt bit. Home Depot has some usually so you should be able to find a 1/4" or so one that fits it. Just be sure to research the proper speed to drill at, use tapping/cutting oil (or you'll eat the bit) and then take it nice and slow. Cobalt bits tend to be a bit more brittle than the HSS, carbide, and titanium nitride coated ones. BTW most titanium nitrided bits are just HSS with the TiN coating on them so they last longer. On tool steel and stainless cobalt bits are the only way to go. Since the bit is probably stuck in there twisted to the left use a standard right hand twist bit as this might loosen it in the process of drilling it.
Otherwise, if you know someone with a body shop style stud welder that might work. I think harbor freight sells a cheap one too, might be able to get away with buying it and then taking it back if you keep it clean.
The last option would be to maybe try and fit a punch in there at a slight angle and try to grab the edge of the hex bit to turn it clockwise, but this is probably a long shot solution. Worth a try though if you've got a small punch with a nice squared edge that can bite into what's left of the hex bit.
Otherwise, if you know someone with a body shop style stud welder that might work. I think harbor freight sells a cheap one too, might be able to get away with buying it and then taking it back if you keep it clean.
The last option would be to maybe try and fit a punch in there at a slight angle and try to grab the edge of the hex bit to turn it clockwise, but this is probably a long shot solution. Worth a try though if you've got a small punch with a nice squared edge that can bite into what's left of the hex bit.
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Well I'm a total moron in this case.
I had a cutoff allen wrench that I made specifically for undoing these bolts.
The problem was this one was on so tight that I thought it was going to strip, because it kept slipping out. Clearly, this wasnt the best workaround.
I had a cutoff allen wrench that I made specifically for undoing these bolts.
The problem was this one was on so tight that I thought it was going to strip, because it kept slipping out. Clearly, this wasnt the best workaround.
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Ya know I just remembered too, McMaster-Carr has EZ-outs specifically for allen head bolts that are just a tapered hex shape, they're pretty cheap and with all the 8.8 grade socket head bolts on our cars they're probably not a bad investment. For obvious reasons the 8.8's strip a whole lot easier than the 12.9's do. Hell, it seems like the 8.8's strip out if you look at them crosseyed now that I think about it. Too bad 12.9's don't usualy come zinc plated and rust so easily or I'd probably replace every damn 8.8 socket head on the car when I take it out. Stainless is an option but it's about on par with the 8.8's when it comes to stripping out and strengthwise anyway. Looks nicer though.
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Originally posted by turbite
You can only access this thing throw a hole the size of a nickel.
There will be no dremel or sawzall action.
You can only access this thing throw a hole the size of a nickel.
There will be no dremel or sawzall action.
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I think you're going to just have to resort to going through a couple of drill bits until you get it out. I had the exact same problem on my motorcycle when I broke off an EZ-out in a hole like that. Three drill bits later and I got it out.
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I'm down three drill bits and three punchs now... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I didnt even know it was possible to break punchs.
The center allen wrench head is *still* there.
I think its fused with the bolt because of the heat from drilling.
edit:
If I take the cover off the front is there something preventing me from cutting off the bolt head?
I've never taken off the front pulley on the cam housing.
I have to pull out the inner insert thing that covers the cheesehead, which also seems next to impossible.
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I didnt even know it was possible to break punchs.
The center allen wrench head is *still* there.
I think its fused with the bolt because of the heat from drilling.
edit:
If I take the cover off the front is there something preventing me from cutting off the bolt head?
I've never taken off the front pulley on the cam housing.
I have to pull out the inner insert thing that covers the cheesehead, which also seems next to impossible.
Last edited by turbite; 04-01-2004 at 03:37 AM.
#28
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lol my insert came out when..... i didnt realize there was an insert. broke the piece yet it still works.......
taking apart that cam tower for the first time probably since the car was built was fun..... :P
taking apart that cam tower for the first time probably since the car was built was fun..... :P
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How hard was it to get the insert out?
I tried it a couple times, enough to know it isnt going to be easy.
I don't think this engine has been apart at all since it was built.
I tried it a couple times, enough to know it isnt going to be easy.
I don't think this engine has been apart at all since it was built.
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Worst come to worst I suppose you could break up the cam tower and get some vice grips on there. Not to mention it'd be a good time breaking it and taking out some anger. Although I'd put the rest of the bolts back in first.