chudson

(Also posted in other areas - PM is preferred)

Hello all. Does anyone have any of the extended length pins for the Racers Edge control arms? I would consider purchasing any length longer than stock. Karl only has the stock length and does not anticipate getting any extended length any time soon. I am aware that Lindsey advertises the same pins, but they also have no inventory. Thanks in advance

Cliff

kev951

I am also looking for longer ones to have to play with different height adjustments. no luck so far.

MAGK944

They don’t look too difficult to make or am I missing something.

chudson

I greatly appreciate the increased strength of the arm, but having no pin choices kills the ability to correct geometry...

chudson

I have a machinist that can make anything providing you are willing to pay. But finding some to purchase wold be much less expensive.

Cliff

kev951

pins are 75$ each if they have them available. But according to Karl, the true geometry correction is still with a bump steer kit, as long as you haven't changed the rear pickup points (drop spindle the rear). But I certainly do want the ability to play around with longer pins. I also contemplated having a machinist make me some, but material choice is critical.

chudson

I have also discussed this with Karl and he stated that everyone is getting by with stock length pins.

First, let me state that I am NOT a suspension geometry specialist, but have done extensive reading and here’s what I understand.

You need bump steer correction when your tie rod and lower control arm are no longer parallel to each other. When a 44/68 is lowered, the tie rods and control arms remain parallel but the control arm angle changes to the point that your roll center can end up below the pavement which is not desired. To correct this, the control arm needs to be moved away from the spindle using longer pins and when that occurs, the tie rods are no longer parallel which then creates the need for bump steer correction. One of the reasons that I targeted these arms was the advertised ability to alter roll center but with no pin options, that isn’t going to occur.

Kev - please clarify what you are referring to with the "rear pickup point / drop spindle the rear" language. Thanks

Cliff

kev951

If you physically change the pickup points .. ie if you were to install a kokeln rear torsion bar delete it will effectively drop the mounting points of the rear geometry. look up drop spindle kits in general for more info.

will968

Try this https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...r-kit-for-944/

MAGK944

I respect the products Elephant Racing makes and I’m sure it works just fine, however that is the most inelegant piece of engineering I’ve seen in a while and, like they say, if it doesn’t look right.... (just mo)

wildcat077

I wouldn’t hesitate with Elephant Racing products ... my 911 has a lot of their suspension bits on it and Chuck makes great parts
and offers outstanding support for his products !

Cheers
Phil

chudson

Will and Magk - thank you, but my quest is to find extended length pins for the RE control arms. I'm aware of the bump steer correction components available in the marketplace and Elephant's are fabulous, but I will only need serious bump steer correction after I lower the mounting point where my control arms attach to the spindles.

Cliff

kev951

Cliff, how low are you planning to run the car? Otherwise you're not really changing the pickup point unless you're physically altering your spindle or putting on a custom billet spindle with different geometry hence, drop spindle

Droops83

I still think my solution of TIG-welding drop pins to the spindle is that way to go, rather than relying on a sketchy pinch-bolt alone:

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nt+roll+center

You could likely find a spherical joint that could fit in the Racers Edge control arms and would accept the drop pins that I used. I had been looking into adapting Charlie arms to my setup, and long ago I found a spherical bearing that would work, but the used set of arms I had my eye on sold before I got a chance to 100% confirm this.

I currently have the old Blaszak control arms that accept the early 944 bolt-on ball joints, so they work with the VW-based drop pin kit I used, as would the High Strung tubular 944 control arms.

chudson

Well not planning to run low but already are running low. The shortest answer I can give is that the rear is probably close to ROW but the car likes some rake to the front so the front is lower than ROW. I’m not sure exactly how low it is (front and rear) because I only own one 968 that is NA ride height and I haven’t compared yet. Will be soon. Anyway, as stated in the link in the above post, I want to work on correcting my geometry in order to raise my roll center. As we all know, lowering the car increases the angle of the control arm which changes the roll center and not for the better. My present setup worked really well in May and one may ask, “why screw with what worked?” but since it worked that well with geometry that is wrong, I definitely want to see what it does when corrected.

Cliff