'86 944 Turbo Stored indoors for 19 years rebuild!
#16
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Very pretty car, looks an awful lot like mine. All of the suggestions above are great and should be followed. Also check the fan switch on the driver side of the radiator.
Once you get these cars sorted, they are very dependable and a ton of fun.
Good luck and look forward to seeing more photos.
Once you get these cars sorted, they are very dependable and a ton of fun.
Good luck and look forward to seeing more photos.
#18
Addict
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www Clarks-Garage.com
That will be your best resource for step by step info, aside from factory manuals.
Any vehicle that is stored for 20 years is going to have issues. Rubber dries out, fluids go bad, seals shrink, bearings and bushings get cranky. Go slow, inspect everything, and don't hit the key until you replace the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, rollers, oil, filter, and fuel. Skipping these steps will only cost more money and time. Plan on having oil and coolant leaks once you get it back into service. Don't forget to check brake fluid, hose, and caliper condition before driving. Be safe.
If the engine actually overheated in mere minutes, I'd bet what others said - the water pump has failed or the head gasket breached. It's not a fan or thermostat issue because it will take several minutes at idle to get to an excessive temp in normal circumstances for them to come into play, even at high ambient temps. Don't go nuts with other work until you can figure out the main issue of why your dad parked it.
Blown head gasket is really not so much a total overheat but a displacement of coolant with hot combustion gasses. When running, if there is steam or a lot of bubbles coming from the coolant tank within a minute, it's a head gasket. You can do a chemical test to verify (called a block test, available at NAPA). Just follow directions.
Good luck and welcome to Rennlist!
That will be your best resource for step by step info, aside from factory manuals.
Any vehicle that is stored for 20 years is going to have issues. Rubber dries out, fluids go bad, seals shrink, bearings and bushings get cranky. Go slow, inspect everything, and don't hit the key until you replace the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, rollers, oil, filter, and fuel. Skipping these steps will only cost more money and time. Plan on having oil and coolant leaks once you get it back into service. Don't forget to check brake fluid, hose, and caliper condition before driving. Be safe.
If the engine actually overheated in mere minutes, I'd bet what others said - the water pump has failed or the head gasket breached. It's not a fan or thermostat issue because it will take several minutes at idle to get to an excessive temp in normal circumstances for them to come into play, even at high ambient temps. Don't go nuts with other work until you can figure out the main issue of why your dad parked it.
Blown head gasket is really not so much a total overheat but a displacement of coolant with hot combustion gasses. When running, if there is steam or a lot of bubbles coming from the coolant tank within a minute, it's a head gasket. You can do a chemical test to verify (called a block test, available at NAPA). Just follow directions.
Good luck and welcome to Rennlist!
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Droops83 (01-09-2020)
#19
Drifting
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Car ownership isn’t about making money. Unless your Lart. However you should ask yourself how many miles per $ do I get out of my 951? I have 0 miles to thousands of dollars. I’m a 951/944 addict so there is that. Just looking out.
#20
Banned
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Droops83 (01-09-2020)
#23
Three Wheelin'
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Cool 951 for sure had your trying to get her back on road, water pump, timing belt balance belt and all rollers is a must then go with all the thing on your list! The duel injectors will prob be ok if there’s fuel
in the rail I would take them out of rail if it was me and put new seals and caps on them and spray carburetor cleaner through them to clean them.
when you have airbox and front engine apart and out of car I would change a few of the water lines in front there as well as make sure the radiators drain plug is good when you drain antifreeze as well as the little plastic nipple in drivers side top of radiator it’s hard to get to under headlight bar but those crack and don’t let you get coolant system sealed up later this overheat because of air in system!
the plastic fuel tanks have a alloy nipple in bottom with a screen on inside of tank these rot and go bad after sitting you may want to spray wd40 on outside of it and put some steady 35-50 lbs of even pressure try to remove with wrench but if it doesn’t go then don’t force it as it’s in a plastic tank that can strip.
sit in the car and depress the clutch and brakes make sure they both work well as the clutch master cylinder has a dendency to go out after long sitting times then clutch pedal stays on floor
in the rail I would take them out of rail if it was me and put new seals and caps on them and spray carburetor cleaner through them to clean them.
when you have airbox and front engine apart and out of car I would change a few of the water lines in front there as well as make sure the radiators drain plug is good when you drain antifreeze as well as the little plastic nipple in drivers side top of radiator it’s hard to get to under headlight bar but those crack and don’t let you get coolant system sealed up later this overheat because of air in system!
the plastic fuel tanks have a alloy nipple in bottom with a screen on inside of tank these rot and go bad after sitting you may want to spray wd40 on outside of it and put some steady 35-50 lbs of even pressure try to remove with wrench but if it doesn’t go then don’t force it as it’s in a plastic tank that can strip.
sit in the car and depress the clutch and brakes make sure they both work well as the clutch master cylinder has a dendency to go out after long sitting times then clutch pedal stays on floor
#26
Banned
#27
Pro
#28
Nordschleife Master
#29
#30
Nordschleife Master