I also had vitesse stage 2 turbo installed which came with a restrictor. With the turbo off you reuse your old o-ring where the turbo sits on. You put the restrictor on top of this o-ring and then the turbo on top of both. The restrictor is a thicker gasket (I would say 3 x times as thick as those paper gaskets) and it has a square opening which is just a bit smaller than the existing round one ( I would say it makes it 1/3 smaller). Hope this helps.

 

As you can see in the pic. Its a 1/8" NPT plug with a small hole that goes in the oil feed on top of thr turbo. I am using a 1/16" with no issues.

 

Anyone know if the SFR stage 3 comes with one? Where do you get one from? Anyone making these or is it just a case of making one yourself?

 

You go buy a 1/8 NPT plug and drill a hole thru it

 

Nope, different issue

 

Thanks David. So when people refer to the size of the whole, they are referring to the drilled hole, not the thickness of the plug?

 

Correct, B951S's picture says it all.

Take note of his brass waterpipe adapters, if your turbo is a TO4E, you will need to do the same.

 

Sweet, hopefully it comes with it on already! Hmmm still no one with information about the oil cooling peoperties of the different turbos?

 

The way I see it our turbos are water "cooled" and oil "lubricated"

Not enough oil flow for any cooling. IMHO

 

Ok, you are right the water cooling is just for that. If the turbo cools sufficienty with reduced speed when idling for a period of time, then the benefit of water cooling is gone? I just dont think the turbos are made differently with respect to the oil lubrication function... anyone prove me wrong?

 

What's going on (temp wise) in the water jacket of the turbo now that you have no water coursing through it? Do oil-cooled only turbos have empty water jackets in the center bearing housing? I don't know, but I seriously doubt it.

 

The turbo does not need cooling while the car is running, we've all seen turbos running red hot under load, no amount of cooling is going to keep the turbo cool when it's facing exhaust gas at 5000rpm. The cooling is only important upon shutoff, the goal being to keep the oil from cooking and coking in the turbo. This can be achieved by water circulation, oil circulation, or both. I prefer oil circulation myself, because as the engine is running on idle, like with a turbo timer, not only is the turbo getting cooled by the oil circulation, it has moving air around and through it, and most importantly, the oil isn't sitting still in it while it's hottest. With water cooling only after shutdown, the oil sits still in there while the water tries its best to cool it down, and though the water does cool quicker, the fact still remains that immediately after shutdown there's stagnant oil sitting in the oil cooking while it's at its hottest point.

Sam

 

So Sam, if you were me you would run the 60-1 with oil only? Do you know if there is any difference in the oil lub design between the different types?

 

I am running mine (Garrett BB) with oil only. I do not believe there is a difference in the oiling between the two types - think about it, bearing oiling requirements don't change between the two.

One thing I forgot to mention - water cooling with a turbo timer would be optimal before shutdown, but while the turbo is roasting red-hot, that's a lot of heat that's getting transferred directly into engine coolant, and I want the engine itself running with as much cooling capacity as possible when I'm running that hard. At those times, the water's not doing a single thing for the turbo.

Sam

 

Thats what I thought, I would love for someone to prove me wrong about not using water. Just cos its there does not seem good enough. Especially when I can remove all the water plumbing...