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Yes, the heat shield is definitely in place. Also, my exhaust manifold is ceramic coated, which should reduce its temperature somewhat. Plus, as I said, the drivers side failed as well, albeit in a different manner.
As I said in my last post, I fear this experience was just a symptom of a more fundamental problem - I'm putting WAY more stress on this chassis than it was ever designed for, and I'm not sure I've taken enough steps to ensure it can withstand them. Here's what I've done so far:
- All solid/spherical suspension and sway bar bushings and links
- D1R strut brace
- D1R caster block lateral brace
- 4-point half cage
- Racers Edge heavy duty control arms
- Racers edge heavy duty ball joint pins (1" longer than stock to bring roll center back up close to stock height)
- Racers Edge heavy duty billet hubs
Sorry this is creeping beyond the original topic of this thread - I can start a new one on the topic of the recommended chassis/suspension reinforcements for a track car whose capabilities have been taken well beyond stock if you guys think it's warranted.
Ok to be clear OEM is not genuine Porsche and genuine Porsche mounts are hydraulic not solid rubber. Also, they all have Porsche part numbers and the triangle “p” even the very cheap aftermarket ones, it seems they must all have copied the same original moulds and sometimes they grind the numbers and “p” off the aftermarket mounts and sometimes they don’t.
Only way to be certain is to buy from Porsche which surprisingly these days is cheaper than all the other vendors selling these genuine parts.
Ok to be clear OEM is not genuine Porsche and genuine Porsche mounts are hydraulic not solid rubber. Also, they all have Porsche part numbers and the triangle “p” even the very cheap aftermarket ones, it seems they must all have copied the same original moulds and sometimes they grind the numbers and “p” off the aftermarket mounts and sometimes they don’t.
Only way to be certain is to buy from Porsche which surprisingly these days is cheaper than all the other vendors selling these genuine parts.
Has anybody tried to inject 30 durometer urethane into bad mounts? Would it work?
30 duro urethane is soft. IIRC a typical grade of rubber is approx 60 durometer. Also, the only way to inject urethane into the stock mount is to drill a hole and drain out the oil filling, and that would not improve strength.
30 duro urethane is soft. IIRC a typical grade of rubber is approx 60 durometer. Also, the only way to inject urethane into the stock mount is to drill a hole and drain out the oil filling, and that would not improve strength.
I guess I assumed that the rubber ring around the mount contains the liquid. But yes something to that effect. jack the motor to stock height, Inject into the rubber part, let set up. 30 durometer was chosen out of thin air to be similar to the liquid that was in there and not to introduce more NVH.
... to buy from Porsche which surprisingly these days is cheaper than all the other vendors selling these genuine parts.
My nearest dealer keeps giving a discount when you mention that it's for a "classic" car... and the '88 951 qualifies. I believe it's 12% though I could swear I got twenty one time. This may be similar to the already discounted parts that show on some dealer sites like Sunset Porsche.
My nearest dealer keeps giving a discount when you mention that it's for a "classic" car... and the '88 951 qualifies. I believe it's 12% though I could swear I got twenty one time. This may be similar to the already discounted parts that show on some dealer sites like Sunset Porsche.
Worth asking about anyway
Definitely worth asking plus a lot of them also give a PCA discount. However I was referring to the deep parts discounts offered by the dealerships who sell parts online like Sunset, Sonnen, etc., their prices seem to be much cheaper than buying genuine parts from third-party vendors like Pelican, Paragon, Vertex....
Looking at info, since the 944 turbo we got at the shop among other things to fix, had a heavy clunk at the back while stepping on the gas in 1st gear everytime, ordered a new trans. mount (genuine), installed it and it was the same clunk noise, coudn't find anything else worn. Upon closer inspection of the old mount and new one, I found both, are VERY VERY SOFT like foam-rubber component that flex way too much. I got the old mount and inserted pieces of rubber and lgued them just for test and helped quite a lot. Reduced the clunking at the back but still has it.
Is this a common problem and the genuine mount is poorly engineered? There's any other solution out there?
Has anyone used Meyle Brand mounts. If so, anything good/bad to say.
Bad. They only last about a year before collapsing. Genuine Porsche only, unless you think you can handle semi-solid aftermarket mounts (which I don't recommend except for maybe in a race car).
I tried a semi solid tranny mount and it was way too loud for a street car in my opinion. I filled the factory mount with urethane (and boxed the folded-up metal ends) and it's been doing great so far.
I'd be looking for other culprits if you put in a factory new mount and still heard a clunk in the rear. Sure it's the right part number? They do allow for movement, but it shouldn't clunk. Any chance the CV joints are going out, or a strut, or bushing, or?? Or maybe something is too close to the tranny -- exhaust maybe?
01-01-2020, 02:38 PM
