More educated turbo questions - kind of long
#1
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As always - thanks for all the help and all the questions thrown back at me.
I spent some time researching the question of what turbo to put onto my car and have talked with a number of people.. It has been suggested by a couple of these folks to ask for experiences with a couple of different turbo configuration.
What I want out of the car is more power than I get from the stock K26/6 with all my other add ons (huntley MAF, huntely fuel controller, Aplit Second A/F meter, profec b, "test pipe" Autothrotiy version 2.7 chipset). I know myself well enough to knwo that I don't want to toy with the car and spend lots of time on the dyno tuning the car. As much as I would like to say I would do this, I know myself well enough to know that it isn't going to happen. As much as I would love to eventually add a system such as Link 2, I know that I probably won't. I envy all you guys who spend the time on your cars and and really teweak the thing but I know that I'm not one of you - wish I was.
This will most likely be the last upgrade I make to car other than minor stuff like adjsutable fuel pressure regulator and maybe a couple of other things.
I want a car that can spin the wheels in first and chirp the wheels in second. I want a car that is reliable and doens't have to go back to the shop.
Here are my choices:
1. Go with a turbo from Majestic. I have a couple of chocies. A max flo K26/6 (also called cheater k26 or k27/6) I was told to expect somewhere slightly over 325 rwhp. Cost is very reasonable ($630 - 800 or so). Turn around time is a couple of days
2. Go with a stage III TO4E with either a 50 or 57 trim with a 6 or 8 hot housing. This too isn't too much more than the above turbo. I can expect to get more hp out of this one and it is more easily upgraded later if needed (which I know I will never do). Kevin at Majestic has been great so far and I beleive he will take care of me. He has mentioned that there is some minor "fabrication" in this set up due to the oil in and oil out line but that it is more a minor inconvience than "fabrication" Any other opinions on this comment. With this turbo, I will probably need to get more fuel to the car. Kevin said I should be able to tune it with my current stuff on the car. (Cost of turbo little north or $800) I can expect 350+ rwhp.
3. Talk with Danno and get a turbo from him (most likely a cheater K26 it sounds like) and then gets his chips custom burned for my vehicle. With my current Autothority chips, and the ARC fuel controller, would new chips add anything to the car? I don't know what the cost would be for this and do not know what to expect form the car when finsihed. Danno can be reached Friday morning.
Please feel free to laugh at me or offer any other comments. WIsh I could afford the Vitesse kit and a Link 2 but I can't justify it I guess. My mechanic said I would be better off spending the difference on an o-ringed head and a wide fire head gasket (original head gasket at 103,000 miles). Would this be a good preventitive thing to do no matter what turbo I end up with?
If I am starting a flame war here, or am going to cause angst among any of the tuners who freely offer their advice, I apologize upfront - I don't know the flavor of this site and don't understand any of the unwritten rights and worngs. Email me privately if need be.
thanks again for all the help so far.
Mark Wollner
drwollner@comcast.net
mrwollner1@mmm.com
I spent some time researching the question of what turbo to put onto my car and have talked with a number of people.. It has been suggested by a couple of these folks to ask for experiences with a couple of different turbo configuration.
What I want out of the car is more power than I get from the stock K26/6 with all my other add ons (huntley MAF, huntely fuel controller, Aplit Second A/F meter, profec b, "test pipe" Autothrotiy version 2.7 chipset). I know myself well enough to knwo that I don't want to toy with the car and spend lots of time on the dyno tuning the car. As much as I would like to say I would do this, I know myself well enough to know that it isn't going to happen. As much as I would love to eventually add a system such as Link 2, I know that I probably won't. I envy all you guys who spend the time on your cars and and really teweak the thing but I know that I'm not one of you - wish I was.
This will most likely be the last upgrade I make to car other than minor stuff like adjsutable fuel pressure regulator and maybe a couple of other things.
I want a car that can spin the wheels in first and chirp the wheels in second. I want a car that is reliable and doens't have to go back to the shop.
Here are my choices:
1. Go with a turbo from Majestic. I have a couple of chocies. A max flo K26/6 (also called cheater k26 or k27/6) I was told to expect somewhere slightly over 325 rwhp. Cost is very reasonable ($630 - 800 or so). Turn around time is a couple of days
2. Go with a stage III TO4E with either a 50 or 57 trim with a 6 or 8 hot housing. This too isn't too much more than the above turbo. I can expect to get more hp out of this one and it is more easily upgraded later if needed (which I know I will never do). Kevin at Majestic has been great so far and I beleive he will take care of me. He has mentioned that there is some minor "fabrication" in this set up due to the oil in and oil out line but that it is more a minor inconvience than "fabrication" Any other opinions on this comment. With this turbo, I will probably need to get more fuel to the car. Kevin said I should be able to tune it with my current stuff on the car. (Cost of turbo little north or $800) I can expect 350+ rwhp.
3. Talk with Danno and get a turbo from him (most likely a cheater K26 it sounds like) and then gets his chips custom burned for my vehicle. With my current Autothority chips, and the ARC fuel controller, would new chips add anything to the car? I don't know what the cost would be for this and do not know what to expect form the car when finsihed. Danno can be reached Friday morning.
Please feel free to laugh at me or offer any other comments. WIsh I could afford the Vitesse kit and a Link 2 but I can't justify it I guess. My mechanic said I would be better off spending the difference on an o-ringed head and a wide fire head gasket (original head gasket at 103,000 miles). Would this be a good preventitive thing to do no matter what turbo I end up with?
If I am starting a flame war here, or am going to cause angst among any of the tuners who freely offer their advice, I apologize upfront - I don't know the flavor of this site and don't understand any of the unwritten rights and worngs. Email me privately if need be.
thanks again for all the help so far.
Mark Wollner
drwollner@comcast.net
mrwollner1@mmm.com
#3
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You will not see big HP with out dyno time. Example My first dyno outing with current configuration at 18 lbs. SFR stage 2 turbo and arc 2 Yielded 265 rwhp and 268 ft torque. After going to 3 different dynos. At 18 lbs. I ended up with 322 rwhp and 340 ft torque 93 octane pump gas on a dyno jet. Tuning is the key. Don't waste your money on a on board wide band 02. There not as accurate as these company's lead you to believe. My techedge version 1.5 with ntk o2 was way off.
#4
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Thanks for the dyno note.
What do yo do at the dyno? I mean, I know what a dyno is for but how do you tune yo car on a dyno? Do you nake a run, look at the results and the turn some ***** on the arc!! and then make another run?
I guess I wasn't too clear on this post. It's not that I don't want to use a dyno, I just don't know what the process/proceedure is on a dyno.
Mark
What do yo do at the dyno? I mean, I know what a dyno is for but how do you tune yo car on a dyno? Do you nake a run, look at the results and the turn some ***** on the arc!! and then make another run?
I guess I wasn't too clear on this post. It's not that I don't want to use a dyno, I just don't know what the process/proceedure is on a dyno.
Mark
#5
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Originally posted by jimbo1111
Don't waste your money on a on board wide band 02. There not as accurate as these company's lead you to believe. My techedge version 1.5 with ntk o2 was way off.
Don't waste your money on a on board wide band 02. There not as accurate as these company's lead you to believe. My techedge version 1.5 with ntk o2 was way off.
#6
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Mine was registering rich when on boost. The dynos wb was one of the most accurate on the market. Used by nascar for tuning. Don't quote me on the brand but the owner said it was a $5,000 unit.
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Interesting finding. Where did you have the O2 sensor mounted? Before or after the turbo? How far from the turbo?
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Originally posted by jimbo1111
Mine was registering rich when on boost. The dynos wb was one of the most accurate on the market. Used by nascar for tuning. Don't quote me on the brand but the owner said it was a $5,000 unit.
Mine was registering rich when on boost. The dynos wb was one of the most accurate on the market. Used by nascar for tuning. Don't quote me on the brand but the owner said it was a $5,000 unit.
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Originally posted by Mark Wo
would new chips add anything to the car? I don't know what the cost would be for this and do not know what to expect form the car when finsihed.
would new chips add anything to the car? I don't know what the cost would be for this and do not know what to expect form the car when finsihed.
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Jimbo1111, Based on the information supplied by a Wideband kit manufacturer, he states that the sensor should be positioned after the turbo. However, the sensor I'm referring to is not the same one used in your kit.
Perhaps placing the sensor after the turbo (in the test pipe) might make a difference. At least something to ask the WB kit manufacturer.
Perhaps placing the sensor after the turbo (in the test pipe) might make a difference. At least something to ask the WB kit manufacturer.
#12
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That right fast. It's already in the works. I will be faxing the dyno chart to Tim so he could post it . 10 consecutive runs with tuning in between runs yielded 72 extra ft torque. The engine was heat soaked . The operator tool me on a cool engine to expect 15 to 20 more hp and torque.
#14
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I still wouldn't trust them unless there first verified with a second o2. Better safe then sorry. I will post my finds after I reposition it. But for some reason I don't think it will make that much of a difference.