Weld CV Joints for Drag Strip? (Purists need not Reply) :)
#46
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
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simply put, going fast costs money. and the faster you wanna go the more money you have to spend. it's also not a linear increase, it's quite exponential (point of diminshing returns).
so that said, just buy the "motorsport" CVs and have a set or two of spares in case you (will) do break any @ the strip.
on the other hand, if you look at the cost of, say, 4 CVs = 2k + a trans / rebuild etc. which could be as much as 3-4k after all's said and done, plus down time, a set of slicks, etc etc, well, you could easily buy a fun, fast drag car for that much - but if you insist on doing it w/ your 951, have fun - but wheel hop and rear squat are gonna be a PITA...
so that said, just buy the "motorsport" CVs and have a set or two of spares in case you (will) do break any @ the strip.
on the other hand, if you look at the cost of, say, 4 CVs = 2k + a trans / rebuild etc. which could be as much as 3-4k after all's said and done, plus down time, a set of slicks, etc etc, well, you could easily buy a fun, fast drag car for that much - but if you insist on doing it w/ your 951, have fun - but wheel hop and rear squat are gonna be a PITA...
#48
It will need 1000 lb rear springs or more in order to keep the rear end from squatting to get a launch worth a damn. Much different damping on the rear shocks (really need a very heavy duty coilover, which presents an entirely different set of problems, mostly that the mounting point for the rear coilovers should not really be subjected to launching as I am sure they will eventually break), and we are not now nor have we ever in this thread discussed the power of said car. No one has said he cant make it fast enough, they have said that it is impractical (which it is).
But like I said before, it's your car and your money and modifications that might make you quicker in the 1/4 are not compatible with road courses.
I also belive that you will break almost every power transmitting component in the drivetrain before you break the shock mounting point. The load on it will be much higher if tou run over a curb with road race spec shocks. I guess that an appropriate example since most people here seems to have the opinion that it can run continously for months at a road race track, but if you try it once at the dragstrip it will explode.
If you could build boost before start, for instance with a two step rev limiter, then you could take off with perhaps 3k rpm instead of 5k. That would probably reduce the stress on the gearbox and the CV:s. It might also reduce the risk of wheel hop.
Tomas
#49
Tomas - not worth responding to most of what you have. You are correct about ONE thing, Dave did say ANY and that may not be true, just about all however is.
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#50
Race Director
Another thing about drag-racing traction is alignment settings. You want zero camber for the flattest contact patch possible. So a solid axle would make sense here. Also comparing the Mustangs, the IRS in the 4.6 cars were horrible for launches with way too much wheel hop. There was a guy that built a V8 mid-engined 944 just for drag-racing. Did something like 9-sec. 1/4-mile times. I'd want one of those for road-racing, with IRS of couse..
#51
That care was a 460 mid engine car and it was NICE, looked almost stock from the outside even had an interior if we are talking about the same car.
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