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Hmmm... I was thinking about this question of yours about what else would we do. Is stripping down the entire front of the car and rebuilding it with performance parts out of the financial limits of your question? Because you already have your intake off. Quick put it back on before your bank account catch’s what whatever mine did! I’ll have you know the intake manifold is one of the main starting points for a virus on a checking account. Now ask yourself, do you really need all those parts? Yea maybe, probably more because it’s a 30+ year old sports car now. On that note, yea you should just strip it down and go full rebuild. It’s not my bank accounts so it’s ok.
Haha I hear you it is really tempting to start down the performance mod list :-). Especially with that turbo so accessible.
My primary focus is on maintenance at this moment. No diving into the turbo or camshaft housing.... though that will be fun.
there are a bunch of sensors underneath the intake manifold that look like they could be replaced too... I need to take pictures and figure out what they are.
There’s the two temp sensors, a one wire and a two wire(one for the DME and one for the gauge) and the speed/reference sensors at the rear that hang out with the top dead sensor that not many use. There’s sometimes a thermostat vacuum switch for emissions(mainly US only cars) on the rear 90 degree coolant pipe bolted to the head that could be checked out. And the temp sensor on the turbocharger. And the knock sensor(easy to test, get a hammer... hit it real hard...buy a new knock sensor). Most sensors can be tested using the same dramatic impact method as I use on the knock sensor, they just need to be replaced afterwards due to it’s effectiveness.
Hmmm... I was thinking about this question of yours about what else would we do. Is stripping down the entire front of the car and rebuilding it with performance parts out of the financial limits of your question? Because you already have your intake off. Quick put it back on before your bank account catch’s what whatever mine did! I’ll have you know the intake manifold is one of the main starting points for a virus on a checking account. Now ask yourself, do you really need all those parts? Yea maybe, probably more because it’s a 30+ year old sports car now. On that note, yea you should just strip it down and go full rebuild. It’s not my bank accounts so it’s ok.
I know everyone has a different situation, time, money, garage space, etc. That being stated, I agree with above. I spent countless hours/years in the past fixing a leak here, hose there, another leak, another leak, etc. When I finally did pull the engine and rebuild, I was surprised how "easy" it was. Definitely a take your time (the first time) job, but once out, you can go through the entire thing pretty quick. The second time I actually pulled the engine, replaced main bearings (long story) and put it back in a weekend. I had a little help but for the most part the just helped make sure nothing was hitting on the way in or out. The best part about this is when its back in the car and you do have to work on it again you don't have to worry about 30 year old bolts that have never been removed.
And just to contradict myself....once you pull the manifold the second or third time, you realize it only takes a few minutes and its really not that big of a deal, so just fix what's broke and move on.
I read through, but don't think I saw it mentioned. One thing I did a long time ago was switch from the stock intake bolts to stainless steel studs. Certainly simplifies future installation and removal.
Once nice thing is that it keeps your intake gaskets in place when installing so they are not shifting around. Just locate your intake over the studs, lower into place and tighten. Have done the same for other engines I have, never regretted it. For me it was always a particular concern with the aluminum head. Using studs reduces the chance of stripping out a hole at some point simply by eliminating the cycling of bolts in and out of the head. Kits seem to hover around $20, for me it's just good peace of mind.
...switch from the stock intake bolts to stainless steel studs....
Why stainless steel?
Stainless will gall so if you ever need to take them out you’ll be repairing all the threads in the head before you can reuse it. Imo regular steel studs are a much better solution.
Stainless will gall so if you ever need to take them out you’ll be repairing all the threads in the head before you can reuse it. Imo regular steel studs are a much better solution.
Fair enough, the only time I have ever had a galling issue is between a stainless bolt and a stainless nut. I've pulled mine on a couple occasions w/o issue, maybe I just got lucky.
Use this on stainless studs. We use it at my work all the time on stainless going into aluminum, plus stainless on stainless. It survives 7 years out at sea....turn around time for product.
Read to the full SDS for specs particularly Physical and Chemical properties for Melting, Boiling and Flash Point
07-05-2019, 01:43 AM
