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I just tried fitting my rear 9" wheels on the front to see if there would be any issues. For some reason on the front passenger side the wheel rubs against the spring a little, but it seems to be only in one place in it's rotation.
It has actually scraped the paint on the spring (2 horizontal lines between the 2 rust spots in this pic):
Has anyone else run into this issue? I don't have excessive negative camber or runout. I didn't try lowering the car with this wheel on the front but I presume the problem would be worse with the suspension compressed, right?
Also, the suspension/steering on our cars aren't perfectly symetrical. I remember a post on 944online detailing the differences. Something like an inch of difference.
Yes the wheel will articulate differently when in the air, on the ground or under compression, your camber will also play a big part.
Curious why you don’t just fit wheel and tire sizes that are proven to work with our cars? It’s all been done before a zillion times.
Right now I don't have any other wheels, and don't know what has been proven to work. I know some people have fitted rear CS wheels on the front (e.g. link from my previous post) but I don't know exactly what was different about their cars or what they had to change.
If you have any suggestions about other wheels I'm all ears though!
Right now I don't have any other wheels, and don't know what has been proven to work. I know some people have fitted rear CS wheels on the front (e.g. link from my previous post) but I don't know exactly what was different about their cars or what they had to change.
If you have any suggestions about other wheels I'm all ears though!
If I were in your position I’d pick up four factory 9x17 Cup 2 wheels (et55 iirc) with 275/40/17 tires. The wheels are plentiful and relatively cheap to buy and the choice of tires is much better in 17 than in your CS 16’s. 275’s will fit fine, I had the same setup on one of my cars a while back and it wasn’t an S so it didn’t have the added clearance of rolled fenders or smaller diameter springs.
If I were in your position I’d pick up four factory 9x17 Cup 2 wheels (et55 iirc) with 275/40/17 tires. The wheels are plentiful and relatively cheap to buy and the choice of tires is much better in 17 than in your CS 16’s. 275’s will fit fine, I had the same setup on one of my cars a while back and it wasn’t an S so it didn’t have the added clearance of rolled fenders or smaller diameter springs.
Thanks. I haven't been able to find those - from my searching, sets of 4 Porsche 17" wheels of any style without a stagger are somewhat rare. It looks like I might have a chance to buy a set of 17x8.5 locally though, so I might end up going with that option. I just wanted to see if it could work with 16" wheels too.
Stagger them. Porsche did it for a reason, it also looks better. You can shift the fronts and rears from one side to the other. And why did you eliminate 18" rims?
Stagger them. Porsche did it for a reason, it also looks better. You can shift the fronts and rears from one side to the other. And why did you eliminate 18" rims?
That's a good point. I usually don't try to second guess the manufacturer. But I'm not happy with the way the car handles, so it's either change something or get a different car. I don't really care about the looks that much as long as it doesn't look ridiculous, which I don't think it will with a square setup. I've ruled out 18s because Porsche recommends not using them and I already find harshness of the car just barely tolerable as it is.
....I've always thought I could use a bit more grip in the front....
Originally Posted by rlm328
....You can shift the fronts and rears from one side to the other....
Originally Posted by divil
That's a good point. I usually don't try to second guess the manufacturer. But I'm not happy with the way the car handles, so it's either change something or get a different car. I don't really care about the looks that much as long as it doesn't look ridiculous, which I don't think it will with a square setup. I've ruled out 18s because Porsche recommends not using them and I already find harshness of the car just barely tolerable as it is.
Yeh don’t rely on rotating tires on the same axle, it further limits your tire choice and the best modern tires are directional anyway which cannot be rotated side-to-side.
If you are not happy with front end grip there are other ways to improve that “understeer” than wider front tires.
Yeh don’t rely on rotating tires on the same axle, it further limits your tire choice and the best modern tires are directional anyway which cannot be rotated side-to-side.
If you are not happy with front end grip there are other ways to improve that “understeer” than wider front tires.
You can also change grip as your chart shows by adjusting your sway bars.
Originally Posted by divil
That's a good point. I usually don't try to second guess the manufacturer. But I'm not happy with the way the car handles, so it's either change something or get a different car. I don't really care about the looks that much as long as it doesn't look ridiculous, which I don't think it will with a square setup. I've ruled out 18s because Porsche recommends not using them and I already find harshness of the car just barely tolerable as it is.
There are a lot of 944s on 18s out there mine included. It is a 30 yo sports car the ride is not the smoothest, although I would not call it harsh.
True but, compared to the 911's I've been driving. 944's are much more direct turning in. They tend to suffer oversteer instead because the rear is much lighter. Where the 911 shoots out of corners much quicker due to the rear mounted engine.
Does anyone know if the clearance between the rim and the spring gets bigger or smaller when the suspension is extended fully (wheels off the ground)? What I'm concerned about is, if I get the wheel to fit with enough clearance when the car is off the ground, is it still possible it could rub at normal ride height or under compression?
The relationship between the wheel rim and the strut won't change once you tighten the camber adjustment bolts down. If you adjust the stock camber at the spindle, you can move the rim to clear the spring, but you will have a limited amount of negative camber. The only thing that changes is the coils move up and down with compression so you don't want to slip the rim in between the coils at full droop and think you've got enough space. The solution to that is to get smaller springs, or camber plates to regain the lost negative camber at the top of the strut.