Would poor fitting dipstick cause boost leak?
#1
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Would poor fitting dipstick cause boost leak?
I have run a pressure test on the engine and can not find any leaks. I might be hearing one underneath the intake manifold but I’m not sure if that’s just noise from inside the engine bay. I can not feel anything underneather the intake manifold. I have bypassed the cycling valve.
When disconnecting a hose from the diverted valve I can create a leak.
Could it be from my poor fitting dipstick? The correct one is in the mail.
When disconnecting a hose from the diverted valve I can create a leak.
Could it be from my poor fitting dipstick? The correct one is in the mail.
#4
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Seriously thanks for that nugget of information. Going to keep the engine mods to a minimal. Leaning towards 15 psi on a manual boost controller and that's it. Think that's okay on stock 951 engine with stock dme and klr chips?
#6
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I have a narrow band installed but i'm not 100% sure it's functioning correctly. Everything is wired up but it's not doing the disco light effect. In the picture below, the red bulb is glowing. I have seen it move 1 digit over to the lean side before. I will be ordering a new o2 sensor tomorrow from pelican parts. The % feature on it works.
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#8
I have a narrow band installed but i'm not 100% sure it's functioning correctly. Everything is wired up but it's not doing the disco light effect. In the picture below, the red bulb is glowing. I have seen it move 1 digit over to the lean side before. I will be ordering a new o2 sensor tomorrow from pelican parts. The % feature on it works.
#10
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#11
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Roger that. This came with the car and am researching different wideband o2 sensors and what’s involved.
#12
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How did you pressure test the intake? Did you remove the AFM and tested from J-boot back?
If "yes", did you disconnect and plugged the crankcase vent hose? If you did not, then you were pressuring your crankcase.
The dipstick has nothing to do with boost. If your rings are so bad, you'll see lots of blue smoke out of the exhaust.
In one of the pictures you posted, the cycling valve is still connected. Did you verify the MBC is connected properly and in use?
If you want to run factory DME and KLR chips, then keep using the cycling valve and let the KLR control boost. If you want to up boost with an MBC then you need a performance chip to match your setup.
If "yes", did you disconnect and plugged the crankcase vent hose? If you did not, then you were pressuring your crankcase.
The dipstick has nothing to do with boost. If your rings are so bad, you'll see lots of blue smoke out of the exhaust.
In one of the pictures you posted, the cycling valve is still connected. Did you verify the MBC is connected properly and in use?
If you want to run factory DME and KLR chips, then keep using the cycling valve and let the KLR control boost. If you want to up boost with an MBC then you need a performance chip to match your setup.
#13
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Thread Starter
fast951:
How did you pressure test the intake? Did you remove the AFM and tested from J-boot back?
I performed this test:
If "yes", did you disconnect and plugged the crankcase vent hose? If you did not, then you were pressuring your crankcase.
Is 3:20 on the video the crankcase vent hose? If so I did not plug it.
The dipstick has nothing to do with boost. If your rings are so bad, you'll see lots of blue smoke out of the exhaust.
no blue smoke!
In one of the pictures you posted, the cycling valve is still connected. Did you verify the MBC is connected properly and in use?
I just took some pictures. I just noticed the cycling valve still has the plug connected to it. But I have bypassed it and copied the diagram below. Should I unplug the cycling valve plug?
If you want to run factory DME and KLR chips, then keep using the cycling valve and let the KLR control boost. If you want to up boost with an MBC then you need a performance chip to match your setup.
If the cycling valve has already been bypassed, is it okay to run the stock DME and KLR chips with a MBC running no more than 15psi?
How did you pressure test the intake? Did you remove the AFM and tested from J-boot back?
I performed this test:
If "yes", did you disconnect and plugged the crankcase vent hose? If you did not, then you were pressuring your crankcase.
Is 3:20 on the video the crankcase vent hose? If so I did not plug it.
The dipstick has nothing to do with boost. If your rings are so bad, you'll see lots of blue smoke out of the exhaust.
no blue smoke!
In one of the pictures you posted, the cycling valve is still connected. Did you verify the MBC is connected properly and in use?
I just took some pictures. I just noticed the cycling valve still has the plug connected to it. But I have bypassed it and copied the diagram below. Should I unplug the cycling valve plug?
If you want to run factory DME and KLR chips, then keep using the cycling valve and let the KLR control boost. If you want to up boost with an MBC then you need a performance chip to match your setup.
If the cycling valve has already been bypassed, is it okay to run the stock DME and KLR chips with a MBC running no more than 15psi?
#14