dmoffitt

matt, you've got mail (pm)

p0wp0w

ian: how would you easily repair the cable if it did look like the cables for TV? Thanks

p0wp0w

alright, my dad helped alot and I'm pretty sure we got the wiring good. (I hope) because now the car starts! Before I cut that wire, when I started the car it idled very very rough but didn't die.

Now after I cut the wire and connected it back together, the car starts but only if I put gas into it and constantly put gas. If I let go of the gas it'll die. Lots of smoke comes out of the rear and smells like gasoline. Does this mean that the connection was not good enough, or do I need to tune it ALOT? But atleast it starts again. Thanks!

Peckster

It's hard to say without seeing it. Could be the connection, could be many other things. Your car was having problems before, so you should take the time to go over all the usual suspects.

Don't run it long if it's getting too much gas.

p0wp0w

what would be the usual suspects?
All I can think of is good taps into the wires and vacuum leaks...

Also how do you connect the two wires in the engine bay to the original AFM connector. I just got some 2pronged electrical connectors and took one prong off and stuck it into the slot...

Cyrus951

what pin number did you cut?

p0wp0w

I don't think it had a pin #, it was one of those 2 thick grey coaxil wires going to the DME, I couldn't find a ending pin to it. It had 2 small wires wrapped together in the middle and many other kinda fringy wires around it just as danno said.

p0wp0w

bump

ian kam

i have a feeling your not getting the correct reading from your sensor either rpm or position sensor post splice of wire . may need to get new wire from engine compartment to DME. I bet these wires are very sensative. I just paid 500.00 for both new sensors at the flywheel. It ran before you cut the wrong wire now it doesnt. The only thing u did was cut this wire between starts.....logic states thats where the problem is. In the 944 manual rough idle can be caused by a faulty sensor.(ones mentioned above)
I wish ya luck matt try oklahoma parts may have a used one ya dont need the sensor just the harness from engine to dme

p0wp0w

ian, hooray no need for that.
Turns out I overlooked one wire and now it runs greeattt. Just upon startup I need to give it some gas but after starting it (anyone know how to fix?), it idles perfect. Took it for a 10min drive today and everything seemed fine. If I experienced an off-idle stumble it was barely noticeable becuase it felt like how I had it before. Havn't tested it on boost yet, but off-boost driving was good. Had some smells of gas so probably need to fine tune.

Ian, I'm not sure what settings you had in the handheld...do you remember what they were because right now without changing anything it has like +128% in some of the large zones and something like that. And some minimal changes in the regular zones. What mods did you have?

Also where do I look if I want to know the A/F ratio from the handheld?

Thanks for all the help guys!

ian kam

the only zones i played with were the idle zones everything else i lfet the way it was shipped to me. I never got it to a dyno but knew this had to be done to tune correctly. you might need to ask danno about the fine tunning portion and A/F readings. I'm glad its running again happy tuning.

p0wp0w

thanks ian, I'll ask danno
Great job on the idle tuning though, so far its perfect!

p0wp0w

Ok I think I am missing something here...

I think I am missing the wire for the A/F ratio...according to the AFMLink manual and the instructions danno sent me, there is supposed to be a green/yellow wire that I need to connect to get the A/F ratio.

BUT I don't have that wire, and in the instructions I got with the kit, it says to use the purple wire to get the A/F ratio. I'm pretty sure I plugged it into the right pin, but it still says OFFLINE where I think the A/F ratio should be displayed....

So was there an update sometime or something?

Danno

The harnesses were changed around a little depending upon which generation box you got. Some of them had a white wire for the O2-sensors, others green/yellow. All of them had a purple wire for the fuel-pump relay. While you can use that wire, you have to remove it from the connector and re-insert it into the next position over for the O2-sensor (check manual to see positions of O2-sensor on connector). Then the other end of the purple wire, you have to snake throught the DME grommet and connector and attach to the pin-24 wire. This is the central wire of the coaxial green cable.

You can verify the O2-sensor voltage when it's cold with a voltmeter. Should be around 0.50v. Then as it warms up at idle, it'll start dithering 0.45 - 0.55 - 0.42 - 0.58v etc...

p0wp0w

danno,
Is the O2 Sensor voltage the voltage that can be converted to A/F ratio? And which screen would this be under in the Link Handheld?

Also on another note...did you get my paypal money for the Serial Link and chip update?

Thanks!