Lag
04-08-2019, 12:55 PM
#31
Drifting
I was taking it in tmrw for the timing belt to a different place sobtryi g to figure out what to do since the cylinder work was elsewhere. If the cylinder work is potentially related to this issue should intable the timing belt appt and bring it back to the other place, with the hope it is something aforementioned like air bubbles that’s a quick fix w/o much of a cost? This guy did mention if I noticed the pedal sticking or being off to bring it back and he may have to bleed the system again.
Perhaps you can enlist a friend and post a video of what's happening
04-08-2019, 01:09 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
I think you may have missed reading posts #5 & #9. Op says that he had the master and slave replaced a “few months ago” and everything was fine with the actual clutch “before and after”. So this apparent “lag” is an unrelated new issue.
04-08-2019, 01:31 PM
#33
Drifting
04-13-2019, 12:37 PM
#35
Drifting
Then he'll give you the quote.
FYI, if you do it yourself, the clutch kits are around $600 USD last I checked. Figure at least that much more for tools and other parts / misc.
Time--both working and waiting for parts--are the biggest factors next to money. Give yourself a month or so.
04-14-2019, 04:19 PM
#36
Are the bypass valve and wastegate stuck open? Never looked into that issue other than I test drove a car with a broken bypass valve and it was an absolute slug off the line.
04-14-2019, 05:13 PM
#37
Drifting
04-15-2019, 08:39 AM
#38
04-15-2019, 04:46 PM
#39
NY is a big state... pick a region, you probably have a 944 owner near you that will lend you a hand.
The clutch job isn't rocket science, I'd classify it as a DIY job as long as you've got time to do it. The problem with it (why it cost so much) is you have to remove most of the drive train to get to it. Something like 10+hrs at whatever rate your mechanic charges, so it gets expensive.
Don't rush, and all your doing is loosening and tightening bolts in a specific order. The order of operations can be found all over this site. You'll need a flywheel lock, but beyond that I think it's all basic hand tools and a weekend or three.
The clutch job isn't rocket science, I'd classify it as a DIY job as long as you've got time to do it. The problem with it (why it cost so much) is you have to remove most of the drive train to get to it. Something like 10+hrs at whatever rate your mechanic charges, so it gets expensive.
Don't rush, and all your doing is loosening and tightening bolts in a specific order. The order of operations can be found all over this site. You'll need a flywheel lock, but beyond that I think it's all basic hand tools and a weekend or three.
04-16-2019, 01:15 PM
#41
Drifting
Some things I found necessary and mostly had to add to my collection:
Four heavy duty and high jack stands + the bigger jack
Transmission Jack
Full compliment of sockets/extensions/elbows/bits both short & long and all three drives
Torque wrenches both medium and large (bonus if you have small too)
12 point (or six? I forget) bits of high quality for CV bolts
Torch to remove seized fasteners--esp. exhaust
Drill bits to drill out rusted fasteners that torch won't work on. Left-hand bits preferred
Mini slide hammer or suitable small-jaw puller for pilot bearing
Seal puller (recommend Lisle lever type)
Arnworx tool to install rear main seal
Headband-type flashlight
Space heater
plywood to lie on
Four heavy duty and high jack stands + the bigger jack
Transmission Jack
Full compliment of sockets/extensions/elbows/bits both short & long and all three drives
Torque wrenches both medium and large (bonus if you have small too)
12 point (or six? I forget) bits of high quality for CV bolts
Torch to remove seized fasteners--esp. exhaust
Drill bits to drill out rusted fasteners that torch won't work on. Left-hand bits preferred
Mini slide hammer or suitable small-jaw puller for pilot bearing
Seal puller (recommend Lisle lever type)
Arnworx tool to install rear main seal
Headband-type flashlight
Space heater
plywood to lie on