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When I built my Shop I thought it was big enough... But the bigger the build the more stuff you fill it with.. I Did not want a HUGE Permanent Drive-on lift. I opted to make my own Rack but needed to move it, and toss it outside, So My First Rack I made out if Stainless. Unfortunately 2 weeks ago when I priced out material I found out that Stainless has more than double in price since I built my first stacker.. So Scrap, and Mild Steel it was.. These are the things that happen when you get racecars.. :-) This was the first rack..
All welded up Ready for paint...
Loading and then Get the wife to help Push it into place... (Had to paint this one..)
Nice idea and cheaper than a four post for storage. Are the dollies welded to the legs or are they just sitting on them? And how do you move the first one around with no wheels?
Nice idea and cheaper than a four post for storage. Are the dollies welded to the legs or are they just sitting on them? And how do you move the first one around with no wheels?
If you notice in the one pic I have a 4x4 board under it. I use two separate jacks and jack one end up at a time, Slide the skates under it, .. Load the car... Move it ... Then jack it up again when it is in place and take the skates out and set it on the floor.... Harbor Freight... 40 bucks! .... Oh and i also store the motorcycles in the bed of the truck. So thats 7 vehicles in 3 spaces...
Oh, ok. I might steal your idea as I was about to buy a four post just for storage, but it seemed a waste of money as I already have a two post.
An improvement might be to bolt heavy duty pivoting castors permanently to the bottom of the legs and save all that jacking?
I was amazed looking at a castor catalog how much load some of the bigger ones can take, many are rated for over a tonne each, some to 7 tonne!!
I thought about that, was actually thinking of Trailer jacks. The reason I did not opt for the castors was I didn't want them sitting on my Tile floor and making impressions in the tile.. and the other reason is that I didn't want the rack to be able to relax, the uprights being on the floor reduces its ability to open up at the bottom. The uprights are heavy wall 4x4 box and the cross bars are 2x2 box I think .095 wall. The bottom upright are tied with 1x1 box (fore and aft just to keep them from pulling apart. and I added a gusset where my jack point is. I think the 1x1 is about 6" from the bottom allowing for the 4x4 and jack point but the beauty is that you can drive the car under it, Open the door all the way and get out...
material list
(4) 4x4 box Cut at 56" (Measure the car you want to put under it) if you notice I had to build my 2nd one higher for the Trans-am. ) I Think for the 44 I might be at 54"
(4) 2x2 box cut at 78"
(2) 2x2 box cut at 104"
(2) 1x1 box cut at 104"
(4) 1/8" Plate gussets
about 50" of flat steel as wide as the tire (gets cut at about 12 3/8" or so depending on tire size...
The cross pieces are welded at 12" apart or 14" On Center. I added some flat sheet in between them and matched the radius of the tire... This way it wont create bumps in the tire. Yet the tires are still sort of "locked in"
LMK if you need any more info... - G
01-09-2019, 01:37 PM
My Car Storage Solution.
