My Homemade Steel Hardpipes
02-01-2004, 11:46 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have a Lincoln 175 plus MIG. I hooked up a 220v outlet in my shop. THe silicon is just normal run of the mill 2.5" stuff for the intercooler connections. I used a 2.5" x 3" reducer for the throttle and some 2" wire reinforced hose for the turbo outlet (reduced the 2.5" to 2" using an exhaust reducer).
The breather system takes off from 2 of the plugs on the cam tower and routes these straight the intake. I also route the std stock line to the intake also. I got this tip from Tony G and it seem to work real well.
I also found that running hard tonight I has to add a bit of fuel in the 840-860 cells of my Link (~16 psi, 4,000 to 6,000 rpm) which I guess shows the improved breathing.
The breather system takes off from 2 of the plugs on the cam tower and routes these straight the intake. I also route the std stock line to the intake also. I got this tip from Tony G and it seem to work real well.
I also found that running hard tonight I has to add a bit of fuel in the 840-860 cells of my Link (~16 psi, 4,000 to 6,000 rpm) which I guess shows the improved breathing.
02-02-2004, 01:35 PM
#20
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Massachusetts
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Great work. I have thinking about trying this for a year. I bought the tubing and its just sitting there. How much did the the exhaust adapter you used on the turbo inlet reduce down to and was it smooth or abrupt. I have the stock turbo on my 86 and I was having trouble trying to go from the J boot size down to the turbo inlet without the air hitting the wall in the bends on the adapter.
02-02-2004, 03:17 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Its not as smooth as it could be, or maybe should be for absolute optimum flow. I used a 2-1/4" x 2" reducer. I cut the bend on tubing so that the face was parallel to the turbo outlet. Ithen slipped the reducer into the 2.5" tubing at the end of the bend about a 1/16" and welded all round. There was a small gap about a 1/16" on diameters that was filled in during welding. So, to answer your question, working out from the turbo, the main transition from 2" in the reducer is very gentle, then there is a small step up to the actual 2.5" pipe.
When I have more time I will proabaly try and reach in with a die-grinder and clean this up. I also welded a continuous bead around the ends of the finished pipes to ensure the clamped down silcon would not blow off (like the upsets on the stock pipes)
When I have more time I will proabaly try and reach in with a die-grinder and clean this up. I also welded a continuous bead around the ends of the finished pipes to ensure the clamped down silcon would not blow off (like the upsets on the stock pipes)
