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PVC Intercooler Pipe v0.1

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Old 01-29-2004, 12:11 AM
  #46  
951kid
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i think you guys are going in the wrong direction with the PVC given it is strong, i have a potatoe gun (sch 40 white PVC) that i fire with hairspray and a bbq ingnitor, and it holds up well to quick pressure differences, and fast bursts of heat, but given the lenght of time the pvc will undergo in the car, its a little dangerous.
Also i think alluminum or some other metal would be best to help dissipate heat while the air is in the piping, i was on a firebird sight a while ago and they ran a turbo from where a muffler would be in the car, had aluminum piping all the way to the intake, and it acted as an intercoller b/c it had soo much surface area. it was at UFBA.org think this is the link http://www.ufba.org/forum/index.php?...;threadid=3476 If you simply used a metal pipe with good heat disspipating properties i bet you could lower intake temps by 10-15 deg if there is air flow under the hood.
Old 01-29-2004, 01:00 AM
  #47  
TonyG
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nine-44

Can you explain further about this metal ring?

Details, and how did the metal ring differ from say tightening the PVC against the turbo outlet (as an example) since it's also metal.

I have a rough idea... but I need some clarification.

TonyG
Old 01-29-2004, 02:59 AM
  #48  
Bri Bro
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PVDF ( Kynar) has a long term service temperature of 280F with a melting point of 352F. Very stable and resists most chemicals, even radiation tolerant so we use a brand name called Poly-Flow to cool the magnets at work. It appears that unlike CPVC, PVDF spec seem to be different for every manufacture.
http://www.asahi-america.com/images/...esist23-54.pdf


Some data on pressure rating.
Both CPVC and PVDF have a derating that must be applied to the specified pressure rating (rated at 73 or 75F). CPVC has a derating of 0.16 at 210F while PVDF is derated 0.22 at 280F (both schedule 80). All the vendor I have looked at have a least a pressure rating of 200PSI for the schedule 80, normally more like 250-400psi.

CPVC = 0.16 * 200 PSI = 32 PSI @ 210F
PVDF = 0.22 * 200 PSI = 44 PSI @ 280F

The pipe shouldn't explode. The problem with CPVC is that the temperature will exceed the max service temperature, but not the softening temperature. There will be degrading, how much needs to be determined by testing. PVDF will not exceed it service temperature so it should be more stable in the turbo air outlet pipe application.
http://www.hytekplastics.com/pressurerating.htm
Old 01-29-2004, 03:29 AM
  #49  
Laust Pedersen
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PVDF (Polyvinylidene fluoride) film is also used for piezoelectric hydrophones. When building some of those, I remember that it was difficult to glue on.

Laust
Old 01-29-2004, 05:37 PM
  #50  
toddk911
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Sorry Tony, I was referring to the pipe going into the IC, not into the turbo.
Old 01-29-2004, 09:24 PM
  #51  
nine-44
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Sorry to get back to this late... We took a peice of metal tube(ie exhaust pipe , alum. SS) cut about 1.5-2" long and the smae OD as the ID of the PVC. We hammered it into the end of the PCV for the PVC to crush down against. My buddie did have an issue with the PVC getting hot and squeezing down causing it to blow off. You could visually see where it squeezed down in the clamped area. The fix was only a short section of steele tube to support it from the inside. The heat was mainly a problem where the tube went over the hot side of the turbo to the intake and had a clamp right at that point. We used sched. 40 grey PVC that we found at Home Depot. That was the suggestion from the Supra forums and what everyone was doing successfully. Good luck and keep us up to date on this.

BTW, I talked about this a while back and everyone said it would melt, I think that was even on a cold air intake post for an NA, lol.
Old 01-29-2004, 11:46 PM
  #52  
Skip Wolfe
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Originally posted by TonyG
Skip

I'm considering ording some PVDF which has operating temps of 300F and higher.

Any experience using this stuff?

TonyG
Tony,

Yes we use PVDF for acid injection systems because it is chemically resistant and it is mush more heat resistant which is needed because there is a fairly good exothermic reaction when acid is added to water. The problem with PVDF is that it is quite a bit more expensive and tougher to work with. From what I remember you pretty much have to weld it to get a good bond but I will ask around to a couple of plumbers in our shop and get a their take on it.
Old 12-27-2006, 01:16 AM
  #53  
Mark-87-951
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I know this is old but I was wondering if there was more info about this out there? Any pics and could similar be done to add a maf and cone filter?



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