TonyG

Waterguy

The other thing you have to remember is even if the melt point of the PVC was 200F, and you floored the car and the charge air temps were 250F, you would have to have a sustained load at that temp for several minutes (like around 5 minutes) to heat the PVC through and through to the point that it would start to soften.

A definite possibility on the track. Never gonna happen on the street or even in an Autocross.

TonyG

shortyboy

that looks awsome!would it be possible to get that cpvc piping in 3" so that i can use it as a AFM intake to turbo inlet?id like to reroute my AFM to where my headlights used to be.keep up the good work tony

Jfrahm

Yes, if you are bending the PVC with a heat gun (600-1000 degrees F) it probably takes a while to get it soft. With 250 degree air it would take forever. It's probably no big deal.

-Joel.

TonyG

There are many tricks to heat up pvc.

A heat gun will work good if you use anothe PVC "T" fitting larger than the pipe to be bent. Extend the sides of the "T" so that the "T" is still centered over the center of the bend. Make sure the outside pipe (part of the "T") extends past the intended area of the bend.

Then stick the heat gun into the "T". The hot air will be forced around the pipe to be bent producing a nice uniformed heated piece of pipe.

Tight radii require that you cap the pipe on the ends to trap in the hot air that will expand when the pipe is heated, and prevent the pipe from kinking.

Or you can use silica sand in the pipe as well.

Many methods to heat and bend PVC can be used.

TonyG

Skip Wolfe

Hey Tony - you might want to think about using a pvc welder to add the nipple for the BOV. I’m not sure there would be enough material there to get a good solvent bond between the two parts and the glue will soften before the pipe when it gets hot. Back in the day I was a field engineer for a company that makes municipal water treatment equipment and have done a fair amount of pvc fabrication with schedule 80 pvc and cpvc and would use a heat gun to break apart solvent bonded joints when I made a mistake in plumbing something up. A PVC welder on the other hand will weld the PVC together almost like a metal weld. Its is essentially a heat gun attached to air compressor and you feed in a stick of pvc which gets melted into the joint essentially becoming a solid chunk of PVC.

There are quite a few on ebay for < $50.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2455839332

toddk911

I did this also but not with CPVC and it got hot and gradually deformed at the clamping points and on full boost would pop the connections. Switched to standard straight pipe from parts store, about same price as PVC, no problems. Not sure how much different CPVC is to standard PVC.

special tool

This is funny. I have had concrete truck drivers run over 1 inch electrical conduit with 10 yards on the truck (75,000 pounds total) - I think schedule 40 is strong enough to hold the boost on these engines.
And worrying about the glue failing???? That sht is so strong, you could glue the nipple, beat your car into a pancake with it, and it would still be good. The stuff is designed to be crush proof with stupid-*** excavators dropping big potatoes on it - and I mean big.
And what else... temperature??? coooooooomon...

toddk911

If I still had the pipes I would send them to you and you could see how the were buckled on the ends.

Like I said, it was standard PVC, not CPVC.

TonyG

toddk911

What color was the standard PVC you used?

What do you mean you, "switched to straight pipe". Straight pipe what? I don't understand... explain a little more.s

TonyG

toddk911

The PVC was white. The straight pipe, as in straight piece of metal exhaust pipe, then painted.

toddk911

It was white, sched. 40 PVC pipe. The "straight pipe" as in metal exhaust pipe. painted.

toddk911

The PVC was white, sched. 40. The straight pipe, as in straight piece of metal exhaust pipe, then painted.

TonyG

Toddk911

We must not be communicating...

Here's your quote, "Switched to standard straight pipe from parts store, about same price as PVC, no problems.".

You have stated that you switched to standard straight pipe, which you then indicated was metal and from a muffler shop (at least exhaust piping).

OK so far.

But a straight pipe will not connect the turbo to the intercooler, thus there must be a bend in the 'mix'.

Are you saying that you had a piece of exhaust pipe bent, and that it's this piece of "metal" pipe, that has a bend in it, that you are using?

The part that throws me is that you said you switched to a "straight" pipe... which could mean that you have either a straight pipe that is bent, of you have piece of straight pipe with something else connected into provide the bends (which would mean that you didn't use a metal straight pipe).


We all would appriciate to hear your solution.

TonyG

TonyG

Skip

I'm considering ording some PVDF which has operating temps of 300F and higher.

Any experience using this stuff?

TonyG

nine-44

I helped my buddie do the PVC IC line mod on his Supra about 2 years ago. The clamped areas did shrink from heat. We placed a short ring of steele pipe inside the end to clamp against. It worked very well. The flow improvements were great on his car too.