Mike S

Damn....just spend yesterday smashing and bending my water pipe to make it clear. Could have just run down to home depot.....isn't it always like this.

cpt_koolbeenz

Okay I finally found some fittings (the compression fittings with the 1/4 nipples on the end) that will screw into the turbo - unlike the tapered ones that just went in 1/4 turn. Looks like my pipe will clear but the bracket that holds the manifold up won't have room to go back on...

What did you all do about that?

cpt_koolbeenz

Male, female, hoses, nipples, and screwing...
Fitting this water line is sounding pretty erotic

Ski

That bracket actually offers very little support for the manifold, the oil fill housing bracket on the back offers more support for it. Get rid of the bracket or notch it. Also since you don't have the manifold on yet...dump the 3 pc pipe under the manifold and run a new hose from the crank case breather back to the pipe( I would take it you have a MBC and CV). There is a Ford hose that has a 90° short end for the oil breather end and it's long enough to reach back to the inlet pipe.

David Floyd

I cut the bracket off also.

B951S

Same for me on the bracket and the new 1 pc breather........I notched the bracket so much that it might as well have come out...

dand86951

Chris, I would worry a bit about the seals in the turbo housing if it wasn't up to temperature. Since I haven't really looked too closely at the seal arrangement I can't speak with too much certainty but there might be a problem. The other thing is that the engine coolant system pressurizes up when hot and I don't really know if the turbo water pump creates a pressure drop or if it creates a higher pressure to push water through the center section.

Others may have some ideas on that. I felt the stock system works great and lasts a long time for street driven vehicles so I decided to make mine work with the stock system.

cpt_koolbeenz

I spent about 1.5 hours at Lowe's today and came home with a 90 degree gas fitting that is going to the turbo, a male to male gas line fitting coming straight up from it, then a 3/8 inch threaded to 3/8 inch copper water pipe fitting, that feeds into an 90 degree elbow which then goes to about 5 inches of bendable 3/8 inch refrigerator copper pipe. Then to another 3/8 inch fitting that connects to the banjo bolt that originally went into the turbo (now positioned near the engine lift hook, just beyond the turbo outlet. Then I just have to route the outlet of the sensor assy (I cut off the Y and soldered some more bendable tubing to that pipe) to the rest of the hoses. This way I clear the compressor housing, don't have any problems with the sensor hitting the intake and can keep the stock heat shields and intake bracket all using readily available parts (and cheap to). It should look pretty good when it is all done. I will paint the copper in black to make it blend in better. I will get some pics when it is done. In the meantime, does anyone have (or can take) any pics of their car (without stock AFM) that focuses on the engine hoist bracket near the turbo for me?

dand86951

Chris, maybe this will help. Not sure what you are looking for but this shows most of the turbo water hose connections.

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/al...nghook_pic.jpg

cpt_koolbeenz

Perfect! The way my setup is going to work, is just to the right side of that engine hook (hiding behind that belt housing vent line) is where my turbo temp sensor is going to be. Doesn't look like it will hit anything or block any lines. Awsome!

Thanks!

cpt_koolbeenz

Progress!!

cpt_koolbeenz

Only had to grind the intake bracket this much...

cpt_koolbeenz

So far its taken about two and a half hours, many trips to Lowe's, and ALOT of head scratching!

dand86951

Chris, lots of work but looks like you are getting there. The only comment I have and it just came to mind is that the temp sensor will be seeing a lower temp than exists in the bearing housing of the turbo. It may not be much but 6 or 7 inches of copper pipe can get rid of some heat. Something to think about.

One other thing to look at is that the copper pipe need to be supported somewhere in the middle as engine vibrations will probably do a number on the solder joints over time. And it may be a short time.

cpt_koolbeenz

It was ALOT of work...

Does anyone know which direction the coolant flows out of the turbo? If it is out the sensor side, I think the flow of water would make up for the heat loss. Even if there is some loss, under hood temps should provide an oven for my pipe. A couple of degrees doesn't seem critical to the pumps operation - a 16 year old sensor can't be that accurate...

The pipe will be supported at the ends... Since each end is tied to the engine the vibrations will atleast be in sync with other. Also if you have ever watched household water pipes when people turn on and off the water, they jump and vibrate due to some ammount of "water hammer." Hopefully they will stand up to the engine vibrations just as well.