with a flat fuel curve and 1.2 bar on a dynojet dyno you would see approx. 310+ rwhp on k26/8 285+ on k26/6 given ideal conditions at sea level.

 

Ok, the sea is right next to me here. Only a few metres down.

 

Well post right away after run or call me id like to see how close to those numbers you come or past cross fingers.I guess it boils down to how close you can get the timing. How does the car feal now.

 

Car is fat. My grounds were **** and were giving me odd ratios on the Link AF gauge. Now it is sorted it is showing pretty fat. Feels sluglish at the mo when not on full boost.

 

Can you give any advise on the AF or timing thing before I go in? I dont think a 951 has been on a dyno in NZ yet!

 

Ill give tariq a call in the morning here to get you some where close but for now how about turning the master fuel back10% then go for a ride.

 

Still working on those transitions actually. OZ951 helped me tune the WOT zones to a rough 12.5 through the boost range. And showed me what he wrote up in his Link tuning guide. No real secrets there, but it does help to have a buddy with you to watch gauges, take notes, etc... Once you get those down on the street, hit the dyno to fine tune.

I've heard different opinions on the transition zones - some folks say around 13.5 to let it run a little hot which is supposed to help build boost faster. But yeah, 14.7-ish is good for cruising.

 

A/F at full throttle should be 12.5:1 accel 14.7:1 and cruising 16 to 17:1

 

I found that my guru chips had a lean zone at 2700 rpm which I am guessing was an intentional lean area to aid in building boost but unfortunately it was too lean for my setup and a a bit mismatched with where my car starts to build boost. I ended up adding fuel there. I found that the most effective tuning for boost transition was done on a long highway drive. I dont have wideband in my car yet but I monitored the mixtures via my narrowband whilst observing the handheld controller. I think there end up being three columns you tune depending on the gear and rpm you are at when you floor it. I ended up doing the boost transition tuning in the 2000, 2500 and 3000 RPM columns. That seems to cover the boost transition in 4th and 5th gears from rpms as low as 2000. A lot can be judged by feel (honestly) when it comes to boost transition fuel. If you feel a bit of a pause or hesitation and note that the display pauses momentarily in a particular zone then concentrate in that area and consider how well that zone blends with the others around it. Whilst blending is important it is not everything so dont just blend the zones together just for the sake of appearance. You may find that one column seems to need a lot more fuel that the ones besides it - Sometimes you may be correcting a feature that has been programmed into the chips but is not appropriate for you car ie the lean area in my guru chips that doesnt mate well with my boost profile/configuration. By the way - THIS IS A SLIGHT MISMATCH IN MY CHIPS NOT A CRITICISM OF THE CHIPS and they are still the chips of choice IMHO.

I dont have my present fuel map with me in electronic format (I am in sunny Seattle this week) but I do have my written settings with me. I will type them out and post them for reference. These settings feel very good and they also produce a stoich idle and highway cruise. Throttle response is good and boost response is quick. I have been playing around with the AVCR as well and that has also made a big difference to the nature of the onset of boost.

One thing that I mentioned to Dwayne a while back is that we often fall into the trap of tuning the AFR's for the way we drive when we are driving the car well and hard - in other words we make sure that the AFR is correct for the zones that the car is in when we are at the right rpm and right gear for the present conditions. What we sometimes forget to do is to also tune the car for when we are not driving the car correctly ie when we have it in the wrong rpm/gear range. If you want it to be fully tuned I think you have to tune those areas as well because in city driving you end up in those bad rpm/gear combinations from time to time. The other abnormal area to tune is when you are part throttle at high rpm 5000-6500 such as when you are on somebody's *** at the track and you are not at full throttle because they are in your way. You rarely are in those zones on the street. - these were the only zones that I observed to be real lean spots when I was at the track this weekend - so they got tuned out of course.

 

Just a note to advise I am using a Link2 via the laptop for datalogging. I dont use % up or down in zones...

 

NZ951 talked with neil.He told me to tell you get in touch with walter at link nz and for a beer and a pie he will go with you to the dyno to help you out unless hes busy but walter i guess likes this sort of thing. Neil had no link 2 specs as of yet but suggest you free rev your engine too 4500rpm and look at the knock signal. Take this number add a couple % and store it then proceed to use the knock to tune the vehicle. I hope this helps

 

Cool, I was a little concerned about setting the closed loop knock...

 

I got ahold of walter in newzealand he will go with you and tune your car on the dyno for FREE hows that for customer support.

 

Yeah I talked to him yesterday morning and he said he will pop by. Walter is a very supportive guy. Which of Neils cars got smacked up?

 

his little honda he rides around town in. The car is no big loss but hes a wreck.