How do I get this last bolt off!!!

I have the intake manifold completely free except for the bolt located under and a tiny bit to the left of the throttle body. This bold attaches the intake manifold to a support bracket. And there are two hoses that come from the jpipe that go right in front of the bolt, where they attach to hard pipes and lead straight back under the intake manifold

Please tell me there is a trick to getting this bolt off!!!

 

Try removing the two hoses.

 

You do not have to remove this bolt. Just loosen it a couple of turns, the bracket is slotted. I use a swivel socket and an extension in 1/4".

 

No tricks just good old-fashioned wigglin'!
That bolt is no fun to get at espically in a stock car... Try taking off the hoses that should help...

 

The bracket that the bolt you're trying to remove is "slotted", so you only have to loosen the bolt. Then just lift the int. man. up.

To loosen that bolt, I used an open 13mm(?) wrench at an angle...

 

Hahaha I know it's slotted, I can't even get to it in the first place...I am using a 6" extension as that is just about all I have to work with....hoses are off, but that didn't help at all, because the metal pipes they fit on to are still positioned right in front of the damn bolt...I agree that it is possible, I was just hoping to hear that there is some trick

Ya know, you really can learn a lot about how your car works by taking it apart!

 

Well then just grab the pipes and gently bent them to one side or the other, enough to give you access to the bolt. They should move some.

 

I got mine loose enough by feeding the extension between the hoses, pointing straight back at the car. I think the hoses can take some gentle wiggling/bending.
Good luck.
-Robert

 

Yeah those pipes are very easy to bend and I have an extra set if you break them! Haha you shoulden't break them I was just kidding - they bend pretty well...

 

I used a 12 point 3/8" drive socket and ground it down so it wasn't as deep, then I cut the socket holding end off a cheap extension and welded it to a piece of strap iron. I was able to bend the strap until it just fit between the hard pipes and the manifold. The tool only works for this application, but it works. The whole set up is thinner than any socket with a ratchet, so it fits between the hard pipes and the manifold, but still sticks out far enough to grab the bolt. I used a 12 point socket so it can be turned in small increments. Good luck.

Arne.

 

Having the right tool really helps:



This is a Husky 13m socket with built-in universal wobble. It's short enough to reach under the intake-manifold without getting caught on the hard-pipes for the crankcase-vent and boost-control lines. Also works great on a tonne of other places on these cars, like the exhaust headers, wastegate-hanger bolt/brackets, etc....

Use with 6" extension and that intake-manifold bolt is history!

 

Hm, i have no idea what bolts you are talking about. Should be the allen bolts on the intake runners, the two allen bolts on the support braket right by the oil fill cap, one bolt holding the dip stick tube (This was the hardest for me, but can use an open end wrench), and two bolts holding on the throttle cable. Any pics?

 

there is a bolt that is under and slightly to the left of the throttle body that holds the intake manifold down. It's a 13mm bolt, and Danno, that elbow worked great!!!

Too bad I have a standard 13mm socket floating around somewhere (outside!) the engine :-)

 

Oh, once you pull the intake you will see the little shelf on the engine that likes to hold every drop nut, bolt, and tool that was ever dropped....i found lots when i pulled my intake....looked just like black oil sludge till i started picking through it

 

hahaha, I'll have to check out my oily tool soup :-) Thanks for that info, you guys have been a great help! If anyone has any questions as to procedures I took or things I experienced along the way, I can type up some summary over the next few days, just let me know

Now if I can just make sure I'm removing the cycling valve correctly (see other post "removing cycling valve" I think it's called)