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New Rough Bock Pics - Deck Plate Engine

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Old 01-13-2004, 05:20 PM
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TonyG
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Default New Rough Bock Pics - Deck Plate Engine

For those of you that were asking, here's the start of my new engine.

Neal @ Performance Developments and Travis @ Castaic Motor Sports, and me (obviously) are working on the new project...

Here's what was a 2.7L block, rough, fitted with deck plates, and getting ready to be machined...








This is going to be close to a 3.3L or 3.4L engine when we're done with it!

Projected HP range is 500RWHP

Wohooooo

TonyG
Old 01-13-2004, 05:24 PM
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streckfu's
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You suck!! That's right, I hate you. I taking my 250 horsies and going home.....PPPPPhhhhtttttttt!
Old 01-13-2004, 05:25 PM
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Eyal 951
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um.... WOW! I'd like to reserve a ride once its finished! you taking reservations yet?
~Eyal
Old 01-13-2004, 05:28 PM
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Ski
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Tony, looks great. Do you have any photos of just the plate and how are you getting it to sit in there,,bolt, machined ledge?
Old 01-13-2004, 05:33 PM
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Eyal 951
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yes, do give us more details, I'm interested in learning about the process and about the block etc myself...
~Eyal
Old 01-13-2004, 06:20 PM
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BoostGuy951
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Care to share a $ figure for how much PD is charging for that deck plate? I'm very Interested since I have a 2.7 liter block as well.
Old 01-13-2004, 06:24 PM
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David Floyd
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Originally posted by BoostGuy951
Care to share a $ figure for how much PD is charging for that deck plate? I'm very Interested since I have a 2.7 liter block as well.
$1000 is what PD quoted me for the deckplate

Tony you are my "Hero"
Old 01-13-2004, 06:25 PM
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NZ951
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You suck *****. Are you gonna change your name to "DFASTEST951 V1.2"
Old 01-13-2004, 06:26 PM
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NZ951
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There ia a 2.7 litre being dismantled locally, is there anything I can rip off and bolt onto my car engine wise?
Old 01-13-2004, 06:27 PM
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fast951
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Is there an advantage of using the 2.7L block instead of the 2.5L. Based on the picture, it appears that the stock siamesed cylinders were removed to install new sleeves and a deck plate. If that's the case using a 2.5L block will be just as good. Of course the 2.5L will need the windage holes that are cast in the 2.7l block.
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Old 01-13-2004, 06:34 PM
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TonyG
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fast951

You are correct on your assumptions.

I wanted a 2.7 block mainly because I plan to use a 16V head.

I've also got the factory piston squirters installed, both crank girdle dowels, and more tid bits......

What you are seeing is a rough photo. Wait until you see how we seal the head to the block..... no head gasket!

mu ha ha

TonyG
Old 01-13-2004, 06:48 PM
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Eyal 951
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Originally posted by Eyal 951
um.... WOW! I'd like to reserve a ride once its finished! you taking reservations yet?
~Eyal
I'm serious about getting a ride! You willing?
~Eyal
Old 01-13-2004, 06:51 PM
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badcoupe
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Are you doing old school with a reciever groove and wire? Some old stock car motors did that rather than gasket.
Old 01-13-2004, 06:52 PM
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NZ951
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How may PSI do you plan on running?
Old 01-13-2004, 06:57 PM
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fast951
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Originally posted by TonyG
fast951

You are correct on your assumptions.

I wanted a 2.7 block mainly because I plan to use a 16V head.

I've also got the factory piston squirters installed, both crank girdle dowels, and more tid bits......

What you are seeing is a rough photo. Wait until you see how we seal the head to the block..... no head gasket!

mu ha ha

TonyG
The 16V head will allow you to run more aggressive timing! Going to lighter valvetrain even mechanical lifters will allow you to run high RPM (which you like). Of course a dry sump will be in order.
I believe you will end up with something similar to the engine used on the DOOM car from years back.

So if no headgasket, do you plan on using the rings a la 930. So if the head lifts it continues to seal?

Interesting project, best of luck!


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