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Lindsey racing push style clutch

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Old 07-16-2018, 09:25 PM
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mahoney944
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Default Lindsey Racing Push Style Clutch by SPEC

I will be installing a Lindsey push style clutch here soon. Information on properly installing these is very limited. I've installed a pull style cup clutch before which was fairly easy. I definitely don't want to blow out the piston like I've read others have... Would be a bunch of extra work and a hell of a mess to clean up on my new engine build. Having second thoughts on this style.... Surely there's more people using these that could chime in? Pedal stop setups? Not sure if this pedal stop would be the same as the mini twin setup but for reference I'm using the single push type.

Last edited by mahoney944; 07-23-2018 at 01:39 AM.
Old 07-17-2018, 04:28 PM
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nick.cfrancis
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I saw your reply on my graveyard post asking about a shop for this install. I called Lindsey Racing after purchasing the push clutch to ask about the pedal stop. They explained that as long as the carpet is still in the vehicle, a pedal stop is usually not needed. I asked if they were looking to manufacture one in the future for purchase with the kit and they expressed interest but didn't give a timeframe for production. If anybody has any additional information, I would love to know!
I never was able to find a shop in the SoCal area willing to install the push clutch kit. I believe that this isn't due to the difficulty of the install but rather due to the fact that I already purchased the parts and there isn't enough potential profit in the labor alone. Hopefully I'll find a shop willing in the near future or I'll have to admit defeat and start the job myself.
Old 07-17-2018, 07:37 PM
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mahoney944
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The clutch job is easy on these cars even for a novist. It's just time consuming. I wouldn't fret over installing it, some basic tools and a weekend and you'll have it done. I just worry about over traveling this new piston and having to redo everything. I've read to set it, you should jack the rear wheels off the ground and put the car in first then try to rotate the rear wheels while slowly depressing the clutch. Probably need a helper for this. Once the pressure plate releases the disc the wheels will spin freely. Depress the clutch another quarter to half inch and set a stop at that point. I always like to hear what others have done before I try things though ha.
Old 07-17-2018, 10:54 PM
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I agree with the carpet statement. However, I added a rubber stopper to the pedal arm just to be sure.
Old 07-17-2018, 11:05 PM
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mahoney944
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Originally Posted by Quickbeam
I agree with the carpet statement. However, I added a rubber stopper to the pedal arm just to be sure.
Ive had my carpet and padding up before, it doesn't seam all that thick. If I had to guess maybe a quarter inch of sound barrier then the thin carpet and the floor mat. I was under the impression the pedals travel would be restricted much more than the stopper in your picture, ghetto but effectivery haha. Did you see how far the pedal travels past full disengagement? About how thick is the bushing you used?
Old 07-17-2018, 11:42 PM
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I was aiming for 1/4" past full disengagement. It's about 5/16" thick. It's just a McMaster Carr bumper that I trimmed down. I have no idea what part number. I drilled a hole in the pedal to insure it wouldn't go anywhere. That way I could use two zip ties.
Old 07-18-2018, 12:47 AM
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Droops83
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Many cars (usually older ones equipped with clutch cables) came from the factory with a simple threaded adjustment rod with a plastic bushing at the end. The necessary parts could likely be found at your local hardware store; this would probably require some minor fabrication, but would be worth it to minimize the chance of needing to pull the bell housing to replace a leaking slave cylinder!
Old 07-18-2018, 05:28 PM
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mahoney944
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Originally Posted by Droops83
Many cars (usually older ones equipped with clutch cables) came from the factory with a simple threaded adjustment rod with a plastic bushing at the end. The necessary parts could likely be found at your local hardware store; this would probably require some minor fabrication, but would be worth it to minimize the chance of needing to pull the bell housing to replace a leaking slave cylinder!
I think my plan will be to drill and tap a hole on the back of the pedal or weld a nut on and use a bolt with a lock nut.
Old 07-18-2018, 05:30 PM
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mahoney944
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Originally Posted by Quickbeam
I was aiming for 1/4" past full disengagement.
To be clear is this a a quarter inch of travel of the pedal or a quarter inch gap between the disc and pressure plate?



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