Confirm Metal Head Gasket Install Instructions - Thanks
#32
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by TonyG
DanD
Make sure you get the block and the head very very clean. By the looks of the pic.. you've got some work to do! :-)
TonyG
DanD
Make sure you get the block and the head very very clean. By the looks of the pic.. you've got some work to do! :-)
TonyG
Dan
#33
Nordschleife Master
Originally posted by Danno
[B]BTW - The Cometic gaskets made for GURU are not the same ones you can get from Cometic or PD. Neil himself told me to use Coppercoast spray on these, but not the Cometic ones...
[B]BTW - The Cometic gaskets made for GURU are not the same ones you can get from Cometic or PD. Neil himself told me to use Coppercoast spray on these, but not the Cometic ones...
#34
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Originally posted by Duke
Does this mean I should coat the GURU gasket or not!?
Does this mean I should coat the GURU gasket or not!?
So if cometic made the gasket it does not refer anywhere to 2 types of MLS gaskets surface coatings..... but I may just call them from work today.
#35
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Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by Duke
Does this mean I should coat the GURU gasket or not!?
Does this mean I should coat the GURU gasket or not!?
#36
Race Director
There's really no black & white, all-or-nothing answer to the coppercoat spray. It will seal 100% against combustion-pressure with no sealant necessary. The compression-ridges molded into the top & bottom spring-steel layers will have enough pressure on them to seal.
The issue comes in with coolant sealing. Depending upon the AR-average roughness of the surfaces, you'll have microscopic scratches in the surface that can leak water. Even using a gasket scraper to clean up the head & block can introduce scratches that can leak water. The copper-coat spray just takes care of those tiny sources of leaks.
The issue comes in with coolant sealing. Depending upon the AR-average roughness of the surfaces, you'll have microscopic scratches in the surface that can leak water. Even using a gasket scraper to clean up the head & block can introduce scratches that can leak water. The copper-coat spray just takes care of those tiny sources of leaks.
#37
Nordschleife Master
So if I put it this way, is there any drawbacks with using copper coating?
I just want to make sure so I don't get milkshake for the third time in 1 ½ year
I just want to make sure so I don't get milkshake for the third time in 1 ½ year
#38
Instructor
As a follow up: After finally have a chance to put a few miles on the engine since installing the Cometic gasket, I backed out the rear bolt from the water passage and yup, coolant came out from the hole. I dried it out, coated the bolt with high-temperature RTV, and put it back in.
Never had water in that bolt hole with the stock or wfr gaskets.
jls.
Never had water in that bolt hole with the stock or wfr gaskets.
jls.
#40
A quick search turned this up on a NASA site..
Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical action of two dissimilar metals in the presence of an electrolyte and an electron conductive path. It occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact.
It is recognizable by the presence of a buildup of corrosion at the joint between the dissimilar metals. For example, when aluminum alloys or magnesium alloys are in contact with steel (carbon steel or stainless steel), galvanic corrosion can occur and accelerate the corrosion of the aluminum or magnesium. This can be seen on the photo above where the aluminum helicopter blade has corroded near where it was in contact with a steel counterbalance.
Galvanic Series In Sea Water
Noble
(least active)
Platinum
Gold
Graphite
Silver
18-8-3 Stainless steel, type 316 (passive)
18-8 Stainless steel, type 304 (passive)
Titanium
13 percent chromium stainless steel, type 410 (passive)
7NI-33Cu alloy
75NI-16Cr-7Fe alloy (passive)
Nickel (passive)
Silver solder
M-Bronze
G-Bronze
70-30 cupro-nickel
Silicon bronze
Copper
Red brass
Aluminum bronze
Admiralty brass
Yellow brass
76NI-16Cr-7Fe alloy (active)
Nickel (active)
Naval brass
Manganese bronze
Muntz metal
Tin
Lead
18-8-3 Stainless steel, type 316 (active)
18-8 Stainless steel, type 304 (active)
13 percent chromium stainless steel, type 410 (active)
Cast iron
Mild steel
Aluminum 2024
Cadmium
Alclad
Aluminum 6053
Galvanized steel
Zinc
Magnesium alloys
Magnesium
Anodic
(most active)
The natural differences in metal potentials produce galvanic differences, such as the galvanic series in sea water. If electrical contact is made between any two of these materials in the presence of an electrolyte, current must flow between them. The farther apart the metals are in the galvanic series, the greater the galvanic corrosion effect or rate will be. Metals or alloys at the upper end are noble while those at the lower end are active. The more active metal is the anode or the one that will corrode.
Control of galvanic corrosion is achieved by using metals closer to each other in the galvanic series or by electrically isolating metals from each other. Cathodic protection can also be used to control galvanic corrosion effects.
Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical action of two dissimilar metals in the presence of an electrolyte and an electron conductive path. It occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact.
It is recognizable by the presence of a buildup of corrosion at the joint between the dissimilar metals. For example, when aluminum alloys or magnesium alloys are in contact with steel (carbon steel or stainless steel), galvanic corrosion can occur and accelerate the corrosion of the aluminum or magnesium. This can be seen on the photo above where the aluminum helicopter blade has corroded near where it was in contact with a steel counterbalance.
Galvanic Series In Sea Water
Noble
(least active)
Platinum
Gold
Graphite
Silver
18-8-3 Stainless steel, type 316 (passive)
18-8 Stainless steel, type 304 (passive)
Titanium
13 percent chromium stainless steel, type 410 (passive)
7NI-33Cu alloy
75NI-16Cr-7Fe alloy (passive)
Nickel (passive)
Silver solder
M-Bronze
G-Bronze
70-30 cupro-nickel
Silicon bronze
Copper
Red brass
Aluminum bronze
Admiralty brass
Yellow brass
76NI-16Cr-7Fe alloy (active)
Nickel (active)
Naval brass
Manganese bronze
Muntz metal
Tin
Lead
18-8-3 Stainless steel, type 316 (active)
18-8 Stainless steel, type 304 (active)
13 percent chromium stainless steel, type 410 (active)
Cast iron
Mild steel
Aluminum 2024
Cadmium
Alclad
Aluminum 6053
Galvanized steel
Zinc
Magnesium alloys
Magnesium
Anodic
(most active)
The natural differences in metal potentials produce galvanic differences, such as the galvanic series in sea water. If electrical contact is made between any two of these materials in the presence of an electrolyte, current must flow between them. The farther apart the metals are in the galvanic series, the greater the galvanic corrosion effect or rate will be. Metals or alloys at the upper end are noble while those at the lower end are active. The more active metal is the anode or the one that will corrode.
Control of galvanic corrosion is achieved by using metals closer to each other in the galvanic series or by electrically isolating metals from each other. Cathodic protection can also be used to control galvanic corrosion effects.