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Arghhh, I'm an idiot who drilled through the block!

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Old 06-11-2018, 07:22 PM
  #16  
V2Rocket
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6lbft is plenty, have never, ever seen one come off or "be missing" when time for a water pump job, and i've done a ****load of them.

here's a weird thought for you, the camshaft cap bolts in my DOHC subaru are only set to ~6 lbft too.
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:28 PM
  #17  
odonnell
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In service remember there is 1 bar of pressure pushing the WP away from the block. Torque on the bolts is just an indirect way to put clamping tension on them. It's too easy to strip small threads on an aluminum block.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:35 PM
  #18  
Tripl7
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
i never use any loctite on WP bolts, ever.

though antisieze is probably a good idea.
Ditto, never had an issue with mine either. Clean the studs and bolts with a wire wheel from corrosion and rust (my water pump hardware should be replaced it's so nasty) toss the gasket in torque to spec and never look back. Liquid thread sealer is what many older Chevy blocks required as their water pump bosses are drilled through to the water jackets on all 4 bolts. I always torqued by feel on those and never had an issue.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:56 PM
  #19  
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Thanks for the info...

The 567 does stiffen up eventually. I hope it's enough to seal that one stud which is open to the cooling jacket. On the others studs and bolts I will also use the 567 as it will keep out coolant which causes the corrosion.

And hopefully I will go revving into the future with no coolant leaks. Or oil leaks. Or any leaks. For a longtime...
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