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I had my new tires put on and had an overview done of the car. The spongy brake issue where the pedal was going very down to the floor before the brakes would engage was fixed with bleeding... thankfully!! super thankfully. I was told to drive the car a while as nothing was really pressing. I've had it out 2 or 3 times and I have these few observations..
1. When getting up around 90 mph I start to feel shaking in the steering wheel. I don't have decent enough straightaways to torque it much higher, but any ideas what that shaking means? I'd have thought the car should be super tight even well over that speed.
2. Up around that same speed the car isn't very quiet. Sounds like I'm in a whistling wind tunnel. First I thought maybe I messed with the roof and didn't latch it down all the way, but that wasn't it. The windows were all fully closed and there wasn't a draft or anything, but sounded very whistly/windy. Not sure if that's normal. Wasn't impacting anything.. just an observation.
3. Probably know where this is heading, but my clutch pedal every once in a while took a sec or so to return up toward me after releasing it. On a regular street it actually stayed down and I had to lift it back up with my foot. First felt like it was caught on the rub, but I don't think that's the case.
I have an 86 951, and my door seals are shot. I get a noise at speed that sounds like the door or window is not properly shut.
Front end shake at speed could be a lot of things. Tie rod ends would be my first guess. I assume when you got your new tires, you got an alignment, and the tires were balanced? Ball joints are the second guess.
Balanced yes, but not an alignment. I'll have to observe it while braking. I did buy the car with the brakes being awful, but the mechanic bled them and that pretty much solved that issue. The front brakes are new and the rear still had 25% left.
I'm probably most concerned with the clutch pedal. Having to replace the master/slave cylinder isn't the end of the world, but I'd be quite sad if the whole clutch had to be done.
Gray tool box is what I owned when I purchased 944T 17 years ago
red tool box is what I have today (and a lift). remember the phrase..."but honey, I'm saving money doing it myself."
While car is a total PITA to work on at times.....everything is easier the second time through. Agree with others, the biggest issue is age. Since just about every thing has been taken out or replaced on mine.....stuff comes apart pretty easy now and its not so bad to work on. When you find the right combo of extensions, sockets, swivel sockets, offset wrenches, etc for each bolt....its not too bad.
And this forum is simply the best, just ask and you will get the info....and 10 smart a$$ replies which you will grow to appreciate with time.
You should have your rotors turned if you don't find any suspension issues that are creating that vibration. Even brand new rotors suppose to be turn before installed. I have no idea about any smart *** comments we only speak the truth, on that note have you opened another bank account just for your 951 and filled it to the max? Or got a high paying second and third job? Won the lottery? Have a massive tool collection to include special tools? Have skills resembling a jet fighter technician? Have a geni in a bottle? And have a very very understanding significant other(this was added from my significant other). These things will help.
Drove a solid amount this weekend. Haven't started the car since last weekend so upon initial start it took a while for the idle to go steady. Sounded like it was jumpy for a few minutes. Maybe I'm just being overly **** and analyzing every little thing. It normalize fine after a few minutes. I did pump the clutch a few times before heading off and I had no issues with the clutch sticking like the last few times driving. That was encouraging. I went out on the highway and punched it and got the shaking pretty consistent upon hitting 70mph range. I tried the brake as you mentioned above and the shake was worse. Kinda sucks because punching it to higher speeds doesn't feel safe. I'm going to take this in for that issue, I think. I checked how much the door and window seals are and crying out loud.. not cheap. One of those low reward spends. Not on the defcon 5 list, but it's noted with the hatchback struts I have to replace.
Regarding the sunroof.. I'm not finding the answer to this in anything I'm searching, but are there rear clips? Basically, I can lift my sunroof up from the back even when it's supposedly in the down position. Is that normal? I turned the key the 1 notch and pressed the button that closes the roof and it seems to be correctly down, but I can still push the roof up from the inside. Not sure if that's normal or I'm missing something.
There is a micro switch in the front of the sunroof right in the middle. You are probably
missing the plastic piece. Use a pick or something small to push that switch and then push the the sunroof up button while holding that micro switch. It's located between the sun visors and under the metal bracket.
I am pretty sure the sunroof works for the removal process. It's the part about it being securely locked in when it's closed. While it looks as if the clips are there in the front, when the sunroof is in the closed position I can still lift it up from inside the car by pushing underneath the back of it. Is that normal or should something completely lock the sunroof in place and not allow me to even move it the slightest until it's released. ?
05-09-2018, 11:24 PM
