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1. What if you filled with that REDTEK stuff (propane?) once to test? Probably all leaked out but maybe not? I didn’t know you can get diy cans of R134a. Yes, my car apparently has been converted.
2. This morning, after sitting all night, clutch feels fine again. I didn’t drive it. Does it change on warmup? If so, then freeplay adjustment must be done after driving for a while, no?
My spring measures the requ’d 55mm.
Problem is, if I leave freeplay adjustment a little looser, the release fork doesn’t travel the required 15mm min.
Mind you, it ain’t easy measuring any of this while bending and contorting yourself
134a is the new stuff that you can get everywhere in DIY cans -- auto parts stores, walmart, Tim Hortons, etc. The old R12 is the stuff that's very hard to find, mostly old stock on eBay, etc. If yours was converted, consider yourself lucky (as long as it was done right and works). Focus all efforts on bleeding that clutch better. There are countless threads here with tips, but the primary take-away from all of them is that if you haven't yet gotten super frustrated, cussed out inanimate objects, convinced yourself something else is wrong, and vowed to ditch the car in favor of a Corvette, then you probably haven't bled it enough yet. The Motive helps, but it's still a pain. Also check the hose between the master and slave to make sure it's not leaking where the metal and rubber meet. Those hoses love to leak under the pressure of new hydraulics -- ask me how I know.
Dan,
I finally resorted to a pressure bleeder for the clutch. Make the clutch bleed, and fluid change easy, and you do not have to learn new words to make a sailor blush.
I get 2-3 years out of an A/C compressor. The compressors were designed for R12, work at lower pressures. The internals of the compressor use a wobble plate for the 6 pistons. I get the compressors rebuilt in Texas, for about $200. And keep a spare on the shelf. The leaks are an ongoing process of identify and repair. Look up A/C barrier hose to understand the hose technology used in our cars actually leak refrigerant.
For the wiring issues, i printed a set of drawings on my 36"x 24" plotter. And color marked up the schematic from there. You can get a local print shop to print the documents D size (36x24), so much easier for my eyes. Do you understand the grid coordinates shown on the drawings? A D40 in the box means to look in D column vertical and 40 Row horizontal, for the other end of the wire.
You can buy small width crimp connectors at the auto store that fit in the DME plug without shorting to other pins, when testing specific pins .
The others have provided good counsel on repairs.
Alan
Alan.. I do recall seeing green fluid hanging on to the bottom of the compressor at some point. A few years ago, I had AC issues, and a local shop put probably what Humboldtgrin is suggesting into the system. They determined the "in-dash" exchanger was leaking (?), I approved the work and 2 weeks later got my car back with AC and a 1k bill. Ugh.
Anyway, that green stuff I saw last year points to the compressor. Thanks for the info on rebuild possibilities. I would imagine a new one is big $$.
How can you tell if the system has been converted and properly?
That's crazy about the regular failures though. Making me think twice about fixing it.. but.. long trips on the freeway at speed with windows down.. well.. I must be getting old because that's starting to bother me lol!
The "in dash exchanger" would probably be the "evaporator". And yes it's a pain in the *** to get out! I currently have my dash out of my 89 944 and would like to show you why it's a pain in the dark stinky crevice.
Do you see the brass end tank? That's the evaporator for the A/C system. It takes a LONG TIME to replace!!!
Far away shot without the dash installed of the central air box.
04-22-2018, 12:01 PM
