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3or 4lb's from the flywheel is pretty strait forward so should be resonably cheap 6to 8lbs from the crank is not that difficult either i would think doing just these 2 shouldn't make it tricky to drive as there is still heaps of weight in the standard pressure plate .
In case anybody is looking - I have a lightned crank for sale (11lbs lighter than stock)
This is a not knife edged, was lightned by Hollis Page (HP engines) http://www.hpengines.net/
I agree but the vehicle (car or bike) will go faster with the same power. The same way that lighter with the same power=faster. Is not faster what we are after not just HP?
On flat roads do you use heavier rims? Or, Lighter Climbing rims? By getting the heavier rims spinning on flatter sections you tend to carry the energy with you. Stored energy. And you increase your stored energy on flat or downhill sections.
I agree, in climbing they use the lightest rims. But they absolutely do not use the lightest rims in flats or downhill sections or with light climbing.
Now they get a better effect with the heavier rims. They use aero rims. But that's getting a little off the boat. That would lead to a good thing for knife edging. But, the counterweights are there to counteract the stress from the pistons. Lighten them, more transferred to your main bearings. And, with how long these last, I think for the street I'll leave them alone. I can see on a track car where you'd tear into it every year. But, I'd like to replace mine once in 170,000mi...lol... Not every 4000mi...
Just wanted to know if anyone has these upgrades? If so, were the performance gains worth the money spent on these upgrades?
I have an aluminum flywheel, lighweight pressure plate, lightened - knife edged and crossdrilled crank, and lightweight Pauter rods. I beleive the pistons are slightly lighter than stock but don't remember.
I am very pleased with the combination and have zero issues.