Engine Temp difference from removing AC condenser? Thermo fan upgrade?
#1
Professional Hoon
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Engine Temp difference from removing AC condenser? Thermo fan upgrade?
Im wondering if anyone has seen a temp difference from removing the AC condenser.
My car gets hot in traffic so i need to start looking at how to keep it cooler while idling. driving is fine. just stationary it will get hot.
When should my fans turn on?
Maybe time to upgrade my fans to a Spal 13" unit?
Thanks.
My car gets hot in traffic so i need to start looking at how to keep it cooler while idling. driving is fine. just stationary it will get hot.
When should my fans turn on?
Maybe time to upgrade my fans to a Spal 13" unit?
Thanks.
#2
Rainman
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did you ever get rid of the ebay intercooler?
what radiator do you have?
i have a hard time believing the SPAL fans will work better than the stock ones, the stock fan motors are monsters vs the compact Spal..motor "depth" is a big factor in performance.
also you won't be able to fit 2x 13" fans side by side on a 951 radiator. probably not even staggered. stock are ~11" and they overhang the end tanks.
however, if you have a breaking yard nearby see if you can't find a Volvo 850 or S70/V70 from 1995-2003 or so. they have a really nice ~15" diameter single fan with a killer motor and the fan assembly itself unbolts from the Volvo shroud so you can make your own shroud.
what radiator do you have?
i have a hard time believing the SPAL fans will work better than the stock ones, the stock fan motors are monsters vs the compact Spal..motor "depth" is a big factor in performance.
also you won't be able to fit 2x 13" fans side by side on a 951 radiator. probably not even staggered. stock are ~11" and they overhang the end tanks.
however, if you have a breaking yard nearby see if you can't find a Volvo 850 or S70/V70 from 1995-2003 or so. they have a really nice ~15" diameter single fan with a killer motor and the fan assembly itself unbolts from the Volvo shroud so you can make your own shroud.
#3
Drifting
I found that after doing a T-belt service on my 89 944 the engine got hot when using the A/C. What I found was the condenser was plugged up with road grime and pebbles. After I removed it and cleaned out out very well, reinstalled it, recharged the system the engine temps were normal again. Apparently airflow matters.
#4
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did you ever get rid of the ebay intercooler?
what radiator do you have?
i have a hard time believing the SPAL fans will work better than the stock ones, the stock fan motors are monsters vs the compact Spal..motor "depth" is a big factor in performance.
also you won't be able to fit 2x 13" fans side by side on a 951 radiator. probably not even staggered. stock are ~11" and they overhang the end tanks.
however, if you have a breaking yard nearby see if you can't find a Volvo 850 or S70/V70 from 1995-2003 or so. they have a really nice ~15" diameter single fan with a killer motor and the fan assembly itself unbolts from the Volvo shroud so you can make your own shroud.
what radiator do you have?
i have a hard time believing the SPAL fans will work better than the stock ones, the stock fan motors are monsters vs the compact Spal..motor "depth" is a big factor in performance.
also you won't be able to fit 2x 13" fans side by side on a 951 radiator. probably not even staggered. stock are ~11" and they overhang the end tanks.
however, if you have a breaking yard nearby see if you can't find a Volvo 850 or S70/V70 from 1995-2003 or so. they have a really nice ~15" diameter single fan with a killer motor and the fan assembly itself unbolts from the Volvo shroud so you can make your own shroud.
I have a thicker radiator also, a PWR unit 55mm thick.
I'll need a thin fan, i ment by replacing the twin fans with a 13" single fan or 14" as that's the height of the core and make a new shroud.
I found that after doing a T-belt service on my 89 944 the engine got hot when using the A/C. What I found was the condenser was plugged up with road grime and pebbles. After I removed it and cleaned out out very well, reinstalled it, recharged the system the engine temps were normal again. Apparently airflow matters.
You can say overall i have an upgraded cooling system, but not running efficiently enough.
#5
From Paragon. Which switch do you have? Maybe you can throw a different switch in that activates at a lower temp.
251.959.481.75 Fan Switch, Radiator 75c/82c
251.959.481KFan Switch, Radiator 85c/93c
951.606.481.00Fan Switch, Radiator 92c/102c
251.959.481.75 Fan Switch, Radiator 75c/82c
251.959.481KFan Switch, Radiator 85c/93c
951.606.481.00Fan Switch, Radiator 92c/102c
#7
Rennlist Member
From Clarks Garage
The cooling fan operation on late model 944s is similar to that of early 944s. However, there are some distinct differences.
The late model 944s use a "slow speed" resistor similar to the early cars. However, on later cars, there are two resistors, one for each of the fan motors. As with the early cars, the thermofan switch (at 92 °C) will complete the fan circuit, even if the ignition is not on. However, unlike the early cars when the fan circuit is completed, both fans run instead of just the driver's side fan. Also, on the later cars the thermofan switch is a dual element temperature switch with one contact closing at 92 °C for slow speed operation and one closing at 102 °C for high speed operation (slow speed resistor bypassed). The fans will operate is slow speed regardless of ignition switch position. However, fast speed operation is only available with the ignition switch on.
You may want to check you thermos switch to ensure it is kicking in at the higher temp, or you resistors might be shot. The earlier models required the A/C to be on to kick in the second fan.
The cooling fan operation on late model 944s is similar to that of early 944s. However, there are some distinct differences.
The late model 944s use a "slow speed" resistor similar to the early cars. However, on later cars, there are two resistors, one for each of the fan motors. As with the early cars, the thermofan switch (at 92 °C) will complete the fan circuit, even if the ignition is not on. However, unlike the early cars when the fan circuit is completed, both fans run instead of just the driver's side fan. Also, on the later cars the thermofan switch is a dual element temperature switch with one contact closing at 92 °C for slow speed operation and one closing at 102 °C for high speed operation (slow speed resistor bypassed). The fans will operate is slow speed regardless of ignition switch position. However, fast speed operation is only available with the ignition switch on.
You may want to check you thermos switch to ensure it is kicking in at the higher temp, or you resistors might be shot. The earlier models required the A/C to be on to kick in the second fan.
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#9
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I swapped mine a few years back to the lower temp. Keeps Temps at bay but noticed that the fans would go on much more often after I shut off the engine. I would look into bleeding coolant system, possible air bubble? Heater valve going? Or water pump thermostat? Larger core radiator should cool better cause of the surface area of water flowing through.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Years ago, I was having issues with the engine running hot at Willow Springs during track sessions on 90+ degree F days. I removed my A/C condenser to make room for an additional stock 951 oil cooler, plumbed in series with the original cooler. It is likely that removing the bug-packed condenser improved airflow to the radiator, and the extra oil cooler helped a lot with both oil and coolant temps (I run a water-cooled turbo).
I don't see any reason to run a front-mount intercooler that blocks the radiator on a 951; you can fit quite a large core in the factory location.
The entire notion of a lower-temp thermostat that opens earlier is a bit flawed, and not much more than a band-aid for a marginal cooling system. Yes, the engine will run cooler as it is warming up and during gentle street driving on cooler days, but on hot days and/or running the engine hard, the thermostat will be wide-open regardless of temperature rating. Both my BMW 2002tii and Alfa GTV6 had low-temp thermostats when I bought them, and the fuel economy of both suffered greatly during shorter, around-town trips. In the case of the 2002, this resulted in cylinder bore wash from the excess fuel. Both cars now have standard thermostats (but very efficient radiators/cooling systems) and are happy.
I don't see any reason to run a front-mount intercooler that blocks the radiator on a 951; you can fit quite a large core in the factory location.
The entire notion of a lower-temp thermostat that opens earlier is a bit flawed, and not much more than a band-aid for a marginal cooling system. Yes, the engine will run cooler as it is warming up and during gentle street driving on cooler days, but on hot days and/or running the engine hard, the thermostat will be wide-open regardless of temperature rating. Both my BMW 2002tii and Alfa GTV6 had low-temp thermostats when I bought them, and the fuel economy of both suffered greatly during shorter, around-town trips. In the case of the 2002, this resulted in cylinder bore wash from the excess fuel. Both cars now have standard thermostats (but very efficient radiators/cooling systems) and are happy.