First Engine Rebuild - Decisions? - Page 3 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

Notices

First Engine Rebuild - Decisions?

Old 11-07-2017, 12:57 AM
  #31  
Dave W.
User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 776
Default

Originally Posted by ekoz View Post
you suggesting to do a little offset and lower CR for this project? I believe this engine was set up at 8:1. I haven't measured volumes yet but I was just planning to keep it the same.
I wouldn't run the pistons more than 1mm below the deck. If it's lower it'll ruin the quench effect and can increase the tendency to knock.
If you're running pump gas on basic chip, I'd keep the compression ratio at 8.0.
If you're using E85 or 100 octane or better, it's worth it to raise compression a little, around 8.5 will give a nice increase in responsiveness. I'd also recommend better engine management at that point, too.
Dave W. is offline  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:08 PM
  #32  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 42,162
Default

Originally Posted by ekoz View Post
you suggesting to do a little offset and lower CR for this project? I believe this engine was set up at 8:1. I haven't measured volumes yet but I was just planning to keep it the same.
no i wasnt commenting on your build specifically, just a general point of musing...
V2Rocket is offline  
Old 11-10-2017, 10:14 PM
  #33  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

bearing metal in oil pan. Live and learn.

While block and crank are getting work done, I started the cleaning process.

Spent most of the day cleaning parts. Hats off to you guys who get things looking perfect, I'm attempting "clean". Cleaning parts takes lots of patience (not something I typically have but following Shawns advice....rebuilding an engine takes patience) and is no easy task with tubs, brushes and razor blades. I did use purple power on the oil pan....only let it sit for a few minutes before hitting it with a garden hose. I also used a white 3M roloc on a few spots but very sparingly.

My wife said she wanted a new dishwasher today.....had i known that, I would have bought a new one and used the old one as a parts cleaner. It would save a bunch of time.

black tubs are full of engine parts for those of you wondering how to keep things somewhat organized. I could use about 4 more as I have parts on multiple work benches.

Really focused on making sure every oil passage is free of metal.

Debating the oil pan baffle? I'm doing the windage ports, piston squirters. Not sure of the baffle really helps. It does have the ring on the pickup tube.

I think my oil got too hot and things started going bad. Definitely installing oil temp gauge and new cooler.

recommendations on oil cooler? RX7 cooler seem like a good option, but might just go LR 3x and save myself the hassle. I see some ebay stuff, but not sure if its more work than its worth to modify them to fit.

















ekoz is offline  
Old 11-11-2017, 04:26 AM
  #34  
ealoken
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 872
Default

Can you please check the qpr oil valve in the oilfilter house And the thermostat is self, My engine did the same AS yours, And My valve was stuck.
Wich leads to no oil to the engine.
ealoken is offline  
Old 11-11-2017, 09:41 AM
  #35  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

I disassembled OPRV. its the older spring style and I'm going to put in the updated one for the 86 and older blocks. What sucks is I was planning to update my gauges this winter and put in an oil pressure and oil temp gauge.

the previous day at the track when I got the car home (about a 15 minute highway drive) I checked the oil level and the engine seemed hotter than normal for just a short drive. I didn't think much of it because coolant temp was same as always and oil pressure was the same but I do remember thinking it seemed different. Next day first session I was done.

Bottom line as others have mentioned numerous times is once you start modifying these engines and putting on hard track miles you need to pay attention to details. I was running a stock oil cooler and no oil temp gauge. Would I have seen it coming...maybe but at least it would have provided more clues.
ekoz is offline  
Old 11-11-2017, 02:11 PM
  #36  
Humboldtgrin
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Humboldtgrin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
Posts: 2,027
Default

You need to change your oil after running it on the track hard. Oil will break down due to aeration but still "look" good. That's why I forked out the gold nuggets for Millers oil and a LR 3x oil cooler. But it still needs to be changed regularly just as oil should and more so if the car it tracked. I was recommended 20W50 for best results. Live and learn for sure.
Humboldtgrin is offline  
Old 11-11-2017, 05:16 PM
  #37  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

Yes...good advice....I think I had 3 DE's (at least) on this oil. (Valvoline 20w50). I don't drive the car much other than track use so I I fell into the trap of "its hardly driven". Even though I change it annually, this year I decided to do 3 DE's. instead of my normal 2. I suspect this was a contributing factor.

Things were a lot cheaper when I was a beginner driver....I remember thinking how "fast" I was going. Now trying to keep up with modern tech cars in a 30 year old 951 is a little harder and more expensive...but more fun IMO
ekoz is offline  
Old 11-12-2017, 03:19 PM
  #38  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 42,162
Default

I'll sell you a KISS type oil cooler with hoses and fittings, plus the retrofit OPRV for $425 shipped.
I can send a photo of the cooler tonight if interested.

Originally Posted by ekoz View Post
I disassembled OPRV. its the older spring style and I'm going to put in the updated one for the 86 and older blocks. What sucks is I was planning to update my gauges this winter and put in an oil pressure and oil temp gauge.

the previous day at the track when I got the car home (about a 15 minute highway drive) I checked the oil level and the engine seemed hotter than normal for just a short drive. I didn't think much of it because coolant temp was same as always and oil pressure was the same but I do remember thinking it seemed different. Next day first session I was done.

Bottom line as others have mentioned numerous times is once you start modifying these engines and putting on hard track miles you need to pay attention to details. I was running a stock oil cooler and no oil temp gauge. Would I have seen it coming...maybe but at least it would have provided more clues.
V2Rocket is offline  
Old 11-12-2017, 03:57 PM
  #39  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket View Post
I'll sell you a KISS type oil cooler with hoses and fittings, plus the retrofit OPRV for $425 shipped.
I can send a photo of the cooler tonight if interested.
appreciate that but most likely going with separate cooler. KISS is a piggy back and I don't want to use current cooler since it might not be free of debris.
ekoz is offline  
Old 11-12-2017, 04:08 PM
  #40  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

took cam out to make sure no debris in tower....all looked good.

I searched for hydraulic lifter testing.....basically they should be hard....if not then bad. True? Or can you "pump them up" and see if they stay hard? Is the process to pump up simple place in oil and push down until hard? have 4 that are questionable.

Also, the distributor rotor plug in the picture was a mother to get out. This is the piece that holds the rotor and covers the cheesehead bolt. I tried heat and pb blaster. Finally got it to spin but still wouldn't come out. Put some heat on the out side large nut and sprayed the freeze off on it and it finally came out.





ekoz is offline  
Old 11-12-2017, 04:16 PM
  #41  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 42,162
Default

Originally Posted by ekoz View Post
appreciate that but most likely going with separate cooler. KISS is a piggy back and I don't want to use current cooler since it might not be free of debris.
The hoses I've got let you put this cooler in place of the original, or supplementary like KISS. My setup is something i put together, not actually one of the KISS kits but the same size/ type cooler.
V2Rocket is offline  
Old 11-15-2017, 01:18 PM
  #42  
mj951
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,206
Default

As V2 says, you can run dual aftermarket coolers.
I located these in place of the brake cooling ducts and relocated brake cooling ducts to the fog lights slots.
Attached Images    
mj951 is offline  
Old 11-16-2017, 09:23 PM
  #43  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

Originally Posted by mj951 View Post
As V2 says, you can run dual aftermarket coolers.
I located these in place of the brake cooling ducts and relocated brake cooling ducts to the fog lights slots.
Interesting....did you make the ducts or does some one sell them?

What kind of temps do you see on hard track usage?
ekoz is offline  
Old 11-16-2017, 09:55 PM
  #44  
ekoz
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
ekoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 211
Default

Well LR is advising against windage ports on my block due to sleeves having a deep shelf. Concerns are that it would remove too much material.

Any thoughts on a "small" windage port? LIke drilling a few holes for ports or is that just a waste of time?




Last edited by ekoz; 11-16-2017 at 10:34 PM.
ekoz is offline  
Old 11-17-2017, 02:40 AM
  #45  
mj951
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,206
Default

Originally Posted by ekoz View Post
Interesting....did you make the ducts or does some one sell them?

What kind of temps do you see on hard track usage?
Fabricated the ducts.

I put a temp sensor in the oil line between the coolers and an aftermarket VDO gauge. It's been a while since I've been on track unfortunately and only running DE's but one of my last outings was a hot summer day in the mid 90's and as I recall my oil was right around 200 degrees.

Car's an '89 turbo and originally had the stock external cooler. The dual coolers definitely reduced track temps from stock.
Couple more pics. Used 13 row coolers.



Last edited by mj951; 11-17-2017 at 03:03 AM.
mj951 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: First Engine Rebuild - Decisions?


Contact Us About Us Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: