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you suggesting to do a little offset and lower CR for this project? I believe this engine was set up at 8:1. I haven't measured volumes yet but I was just planning to keep it the same.
I wouldn't run the pistons more than 1mm below the deck. If it's lower it'll ruin the quench effect and can increase the tendency to knock.
If you're running pump gas on basic chip, I'd keep the compression ratio at 8.0.
If you're using E85 or 100 octane or better, it's worth it to raise compression a little, around 8.5 will give a nice increase in responsiveness. I'd also recommend better engine management at that point, too.
you suggesting to do a little offset and lower CR for this project? I believe this engine was set up at 8:1. I haven't measured volumes yet but I was just planning to keep it the same.
no i wasnt commenting on your build specifically, just a general point of musing...
While block and crank are getting work done, I started the cleaning process.
Spent most of the day cleaning parts. Hats off to you guys who get things looking perfect, I'm attempting "clean". Cleaning parts takes lots of patience (not something I typically have but following Shawns advice....rebuilding an engine takes patience) and is no easy task with tubs, brushes and razor blades. I did use purple power on the oil pan....only let it sit for a few minutes before hitting it with a garden hose. I also used a white 3M roloc on a few spots but very sparingly.
My wife said she wanted a new dishwasher today.....had i known that, I would have bought a new one and used the old one as a parts cleaner. It would save a bunch of time.
black tubs are full of engine parts for those of you wondering how to keep things somewhat organized. I could use about 4 more as I have parts on multiple work benches.
Really focused on making sure every oil passage is free of metal.
Debating the oil pan baffle? I'm doing the windage ports, piston squirters. Not sure of the baffle really helps. It does have the ring on the pickup tube.
I think my oil got too hot and things started going bad. Definitely installing oil temp gauge and new cooler.
recommendations on oil cooler? RX7 cooler seem like a good option, but might just go LR 3x and save myself the hassle. I see some ebay stuff, but not sure if its more work than its worth to modify them to fit.
Can you please check the qpr oil valve in the oilfilter house And the thermostat is self, My engine did the same AS yours, And My valve was stuck.
Wich leads to no oil to the engine.
I disassembled OPRV. its the older spring style and I'm going to put in the updated one for the 86 and older blocks. What sucks is I was planning to update my gauges this winter and put in an oil pressure and oil temp gauge.
the previous day at the track when I got the car home (about a 15 minute highway drive) I checked the oil level and the engine seemed hotter than normal for just a short drive. I didn't think much of it because coolant temp was same as always and oil pressure was the same but I do remember thinking it seemed different. Next day first session I was done.
Bottom line as others have mentioned numerous times is once you start modifying these engines and putting on hard track miles you need to pay attention to details. I was running a stock oil cooler and no oil temp gauge. Would I have seen it coming...maybe but at least it would have provided more clues.
You need to change your oil after running it on the track hard. Oil will break down due to aeration but still "look" good. That's why I forked out the gold nuggets for Millers oil and a LR 3x oil cooler. But it still needs to be changed regularly just as oil should and more so if the car it tracked. I was recommended 20W50 for best results. Live and learn for sure.
Yes...good advice....I think I had 3 DE's (at least) on this oil. (Valvoline 20w50). I don't drive the car much other than track use so I I fell into the trap of "its hardly driven". Even though I change it annually, this year I decided to do 3 DE's. instead of my normal 2. I suspect this was a contributing factor.
Things were a lot cheaper when I was a beginner driver....I remember thinking how "fast" I was going. Now trying to keep up with modern tech cars in a 30 year old 951 is a little harder and more expensive...but more fun IMO
I'll sell you a KISS type oil cooler with hoses and fittings, plus the retrofit OPRV for $425 shipped.
I can send a photo of the cooler tonight if interested.
Originally Posted by ekoz
I disassembled OPRV. its the older spring style and I'm going to put in the updated one for the 86 and older blocks. What sucks is I was planning to update my gauges this winter and put in an oil pressure and oil temp gauge.
the previous day at the track when I got the car home (about a 15 minute highway drive) I checked the oil level and the engine seemed hotter than normal for just a short drive. I didn't think much of it because coolant temp was same as always and oil pressure was the same but I do remember thinking it seemed different. Next day first session I was done.
Bottom line as others have mentioned numerous times is once you start modifying these engines and putting on hard track miles you need to pay attention to details. I was running a stock oil cooler and no oil temp gauge. Would I have seen it coming...maybe but at least it would have provided more clues.
I'll sell you a KISS type oil cooler with hoses and fittings, plus the retrofit OPRV for $425 shipped.
I can send a photo of the cooler tonight if interested.
appreciate that but most likely going with separate cooler. KISS is a piggy back and I don't want to use current cooler since it might not be free of debris.
took cam out to make sure no debris in tower....all looked good.
I searched for hydraulic lifter testing.....basically they should be hard....if not then bad. True? Or can you "pump them up" and see if they stay hard? Is the process to pump up simple place in oil and push down until hard? have 4 that are questionable.
Also, the distributor rotor plug in the picture was a mother to get out. This is the piece that holds the rotor and covers the cheesehead bolt. I tried heat and pb blaster. Finally got it to spin but still wouldn't come out. Put some heat on the out side large nut and sprayed the freeze off on it and it finally came out.
appreciate that but most likely going with separate cooler. KISS is a piggy back and I don't want to use current cooler since it might not be free of debris.
The hoses I've got let you put this cooler in place of the original, or supplementary like KISS. My setup is something i put together, not actually one of the KISS kits but the same size/ type cooler.
As V2 says, you can run dual aftermarket coolers.
I located these in place of the brake cooling ducts and relocated brake cooling ducts to the fog lights slots.
As V2 says, you can run dual aftermarket coolers.
I located these in place of the brake cooling ducts and relocated brake cooling ducts to the fog lights slots.
Interesting....did you make the ducts or does some one sell them?
What kind of temps do you see on hard track usage?
Interesting....did you make the ducts or does some one sell them?
What kind of temps do you see on hard track usage?
Fabricated the ducts.
I put a temp sensor in the oil line between the coolers and an aftermarket VDO gauge. It's been a while since I've been on track unfortunately and only running DE's but one of my last outings was a hot summer day in the mid 90's and as I recall my oil was right around 200 degrees.
Car's an '89 turbo and originally had the stock external cooler. The dual coolers definitely reduced track temps from stock.
Couple more pics. Used 13 row coolers.
11-06-2017, 11:57 PM
