rlm328

Yeah I have a knifed crank which does not make it very user friendly when you are in the pits or getting started from a dead stop especially with a puck clutch. The RP968 photo it appears that it has been polished to a mirror shine. I wish I had his funds for research and development.

I have had the knifed version and the regular crank. For whatever reason I keep going back to the knifed version.

I am in the process now of getting ready to start a new engine build (like to have a short block on the shelf) and I am trying to decide what I want in it.

V2Rocket

The bearing choice and size is secondary to this - what it gets you is an extra 6-7mm of stroke. So its another way to gain displacement, for which as we know, there is no replacement

A 100mm bore with 88mm 3.0 crank makes ~2.8L.
A 100mm bore with 95mm (3.0 crank offset ground) makes 3.0L

333pg333

Can you run 16v? Might be worth considering. Obviously there are varying builds and varying budgets but I'd say you can do it without killing the budget. Hope to have mine at the dyno v soon for reference.

PDX-944

Don't people typically prefer the 8v for turbo applications? Id have to get a 16v head and go through it. I already have a few 8v heads here... plus double the aftermarket cam cost oyyy... ha
No idea what to do for cam as is.

URG8RB8

I have plenty of cranks if you are in need. Mine are the best you can buy from Armando at CCR, everything complete, offset ground, increased journal radius to full 1/8”, knife edged, perpendicular drilled, cleaned and capped, tear dropped, micropolished, nitrided, runout after complete less than 0.0001”, custom Calico dry film coated ACL chamfered race bearings, custom machined for these journals. I have both 3.0L and 2.5L offset grinds. They are not for the faint of wallet though. Cheaper to buy your Billet crank. The good news mine are ready to ship.

V2Rocket

seeing the numbers for some of the stuff you've acquired over the years gives me heart attacks...

rlm328

I am going to get out of this discussion as the OP is doing a Darton MID to 106 mm, along with your offset grind is equivalent to a 3.35L. Heat will be the death of that engine.

PDX-944

Do you have any... budget friendly? Offset and perp drilled, without all the other $$$$$? Lol

PDX-944

My luck initially is that autocross and Hillclimb runs are short, so I can work on that issue. Longest Hillclimb I do is sub 3 minutes.
So I'll monitor that appropriately.

PDX-944

I just got off the phone with Chris White at 944 Enhancement.
First things first - I misread and have been planning a 106 bore, but I was going to use my 2.5 block, which can only be sleeved up to 104mm.

SO unless I find a decent 3liter block soon, ill end up with a 3.2

He also has done many of these types of builds and he is not concerned about heating any more than previously. Im not looking for high dyno numbers/high boost. Yes I will have to monitor it, but again he isn't overly concerned about the issue.

Yes, he can also do whatever I need with the pistons and deck height to get everything where I need it, so that is good news.

I guess once I figure out the block issue, I can start pulling triggers.

I also asked him about head work - and he said the factory head arrangement, when cleaned up, will not be bad. He said either go big or don't do much to it. So for now I think ill stay on the low end of that, and get the bottom end dialed in and built and running, and then maybe when my credit cards get paid down I can think about future upgrades to head and cam.

Gotta say, Chris was very helpful. Also, Joe from Molex regarding the crank was extremely helpful and willing to discuss things. So far I am quite thankful to the people helping guide me through this. Same with the people here on the forums!

PDX-944

question of the hour.... rod and bearing choice.

so far it sounds like 4G63 (6 bolt) rods are the way to go, but there are still a few options... I need 150mm, these are actually just a hair under which is even better:

http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?op...d=33&Itemid=40

but which ones?
and what about bearings? I assume I use the 4G63 bearings.

gruhsy

Eagle Rods HAVE to be CRS5900MC3D. It has to be that exact part number. All of the other Eagle 4G63 are narrower on the big end than the MC3D.

Rod bearings are ACL 4B1146H. Measure the journal/rod first to choose the size....there are over and under size for that part number. Hopefully it will be the standard size with the work done to the crank.

PDX-944

well, I give them the spec to grind the crank to, so it should come out okay! but ill hold off on ordering until its confirmed.

and this is exactly what I wanted, a definite answer. makes me feel more confident that I wont just end up with a box of paperweights!

thank you

gruhsy

In case you had not read Shawn's web site page

http://www.refresh951.com/StrokerDIY.htm

PDX-944

I get sent that link a few times a day... haha. unfortunately he is not specific about very much so it only helps generally

edit, apparently I have looked there a bunch of times and missed the part numbers down lower... oops