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Sorry for the slow response, Life with kids has gotten in the way of my car time.
After many thanks to all, My car is now running!
It's hard to pin-down 1 point of failure & 1 single fix, but I would defiantly say it was a number of contributing factors;
- (1) - The grounds - I cleaned the ground between the Taillights, on the battery terminals, and on the lead wires. (Dremels are great!)
- (2) - The Battery - After rebuilding a window regulator, and using the battery to move the window up and down multiple time to make sure it was aligned correctly, I believe a low battery could also have been a contributing factor. (I took mine up to the local Sam's club on a Saturday morning, and they charged it while I ran my errands for the day.
- (3) - The fuel pump itself - Having not run in a number of years, I removed it from the car, and ran 12v to it directly to get it started. It ran very slow at first, but then once it "Cleared-out" it ran fine
(I actually ordered a Fuel Pressure Test gauge from Arnnworks to double-check my fuel pressure and regulators - Everything works to spec. The AutoZone free-rental kit didn't have what we would need to connect to the fuel rail, and trying to find any homemade specialty adaptor combination is a huge waste of time - Order the Gauge, You'll feel Awesome.
- (4) - The Injectors themselves - I tested power all the way to the injectors, and tested each with a noid light. Each showed they were getting power, but no fuel was being released into the engine. I removed the injectors, and sent them out to Witchhunter Performance for a cleaning. (I know that I'm dropping a lot of names here, but it seems like I spend 1/2 of my fix-it time reading forums, and if something worked for someone, I feel you should reference it). After the the injectors came back, I lubed the o-rings, and installed them to the rail.
- (5) - Voltage Drop "Training" - First, get an good Auto-ranging Multimeter (you will save time in the long-run). Second, watch about 10 hrs of Youtube videos on how to test for voltage issues. (For some reason this simple concept is STILL difficult for me, but I managed to determine where I had insufficient voltage on the Powerside, and a bad ground on the Groundside). Every bit of knowledge helps.
- (6 - **Bonus Information) - The .8mm Gap on the Reference & Speed Sensors - I read everywhere to get a .8mm thick washer to glue on the bottom of the reference sensor - the question is WHERE do you find one? - Where was my solution - It was a combination of 2 washers - the "Outer" was a .032 3/8s Shim Washer (from Mid-states Bolt & Screw in Michigan - about .40 cents), and the "Inner" was a 4mm Flat Washer from Lowes. (hopefully the pictures will attach)
With much help from the Porsche 944 Owners community my car is running again. Many Thanks. Now it time to change the belts - And a whole other series of questions.
I had many of the same symptoms and wanted to post this for posterity:
Early 1983 944, had a new DME relay, and would crank but not start. I checked spark plugs which were fine. Sprayed starter fluid into the air intake and the car ran great for 3 seconds, so assuming spark system is all fine.
I couldn't hear fuel pump running. I tested the pump and got continuity from the ground wire (the brown wire under the fuel pump boot) to a nearby frame bolt. But with the DME jumpered with the 3 prong wire, I got no 12v at the fuel pump. The jumper had 12v when tested (multimeter using on prong of the jumper at pos and frame of car for neg.)
So I knew I had 12v at the DME jumper, but not at the fuel pump.
After hours of following wires and finding no breaks or shorts, I realized that my battery positive terminal has several (3) red wires that connect at the terminal separately from the thick terminal wire. They were rusty and pretty beat up. I removed them, trimmed them, put on new crimped eye ring style connectors, sanded the battery terminal and reconnected them.
Car started right up and runs flawlessly. Hopefully this helps someone out there with a similar issue.