GPA951s

Try Penetrating oil but the only way penetrating oil works is TIME, Go on to something else, spray it every day and add heat... Keep doing that every day.. Then after a few days heat it up and get on it with Vice Grips and "work" it.. Once you get it to turn even the tinyest amount your home free, Just work it back and forth Your arm will get sore and tired, but I have lived in the "Rust belt" my whole life and have a TON of experience with this sort of thing.. Ive even done the Wax trick.. and actually Chiseled out a CV Bolt that was stripped.. a Chisel application wont work for this.. But "Tapping" Lightly on it will help. If You're having a hard time welding it.. Grind the nut down so its Thinner, But if your using a MIG it will still be difficult.. a TIG would work best

zogster

...nitric acid is the next step I think.

zogster

AH, missed your reply GPA... I've just improvised a little reservoir for the acid with a plastic bottle and some filler. If it proves to be watertight, I'll try the acid, if not, then I'll try oil, heat, oil, heat

KevinGross

Zog, I don't know whether you could open up the holes by drilling, without seeing the part and understanding whether there's enough material to allow that safely. If there is enough, sure, why not.

zogster

Hey Kevin,

Was just about to update this post... I think drilling out would work, but with the engine in situ I think I'd have to at least remove the turbo, and the last time I did that I spent two weeks trying to get the car restarted... (granted, I'd done several other things deep in the engine bay, and the probably-DME-connector issue probably wouldn't happen again, but, well, y'know...)

I made some progress with the nitric acid, then switched to alum when I ran out of acid, but that didn't seem very effective at all - maybe if it's hot it works

So I hit the '&*%$ it' button, and mounted the alternator bracket with three bolts, problem to be resolved at a later date...