HELP!!! Delco alternator in S2... Is it possible?
12-11-2002, 10:36 PM
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HELP!!! Delco alternator in S2... Is it possible?
Has anybody tried or already did replace the factory Bosch alternator with another brand? I would like to put in a better stereo but I have noticed that when I turn up my subs, the lights start dimming even at full throttle... I have never been happy with the factory charging system since it runs at 13.8 volts and if there is any load on the system, the battery does not get fully charged... So does anyone know if late style Delco alternator would fit with little modifications? Any special considerations with wiring? What are the connections at the alternator? Can anyone help? I have seen this done to a 924, will it work on S2?
12-12-2002, 06:17 PM
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check out the 928 site. i ran a search there for something else and came upon a procedure someone did for the 928.
Essentially if you can get it to fit, it will work.
Essentially if you can get it to fit, it will work.
12-13-2002, 08:44 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Olli Snellman:
<strong>I suppose alternator it self is not a problem, it's the bad wiring.Check out on main 944 site Iceshark's offerings.</strong><hr></blockquote>it is not the wiring... I replaced factory cables with high quality welding cable... I have extra grounds between the engine and the body and the battery... My alternator is only 1200 miles old... It is Bosch charging system that is flawed by design to put out 13.8 max (cold and even less with the thermal limiter kicking in...). If you have any kind of load on the electrical system, you end up with an undercharged battery that does not last even 3 days before going dead... I am going to go the reasonable route first and change the voltage regulator to an adjustable one and since I do not suspect this will help enough, go with the upgraded alternator. I have actually talked to someone already about making one for me in a Delco casing to put out about 250 amps at 14.4 and installing second battery in the trunk (it is a convertible) and battery isolator... And with dual external rectifiers, overheating will not be a problem... The only problem that I have now, is to figure out the exciter wire voltage (anyone knows what the voltage suppose to be?).
The physical mods will be minimal because the eyelets line up so possibly only the opening on the bracket may have to be extended...
<strong>I suppose alternator it self is not a problem, it's the bad wiring.Check out on main 944 site Iceshark's offerings.</strong><hr></blockquote>it is not the wiring... I replaced factory cables with high quality welding cable... I have extra grounds between the engine and the body and the battery... My alternator is only 1200 miles old... It is Bosch charging system that is flawed by design to put out 13.8 max (cold and even less with the thermal limiter kicking in...). If you have any kind of load on the electrical system, you end up with an undercharged battery that does not last even 3 days before going dead... I am going to go the reasonable route first and change the voltage regulator to an adjustable one and since I do not suspect this will help enough, go with the upgraded alternator. I have actually talked to someone already about making one for me in a Delco casing to put out about 250 amps at 14.4 and installing second battery in the trunk (it is a convertible) and battery isolator... And with dual external rectifiers, overheating will not be a problem... The only problem that I have now, is to figure out the exciter wire voltage (anyone knows what the voltage suppose to be?).
The physical mods will be minimal because the eyelets line up so possibly only the opening on the bracket may have to be extended...
12-16-2002, 04:30 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by RedS2:
<strong>Check with Turbo Tim about the Toyota alternator (my recollection) that he has fitted with a modified supercharger kit.</strong><hr></blockquote>well, I am going to try something first that really cannot be beat for the price... an adjustable voltage regulator (I am going to crank it up to 14.8 V), a new stock battery and a deep cycle auxiliary battery for the audio equipment. This is the absolute cheapest way to approach this I figured... And if it does not work, I will put the Delco alternator then...
<strong>Check with Turbo Tim about the Toyota alternator (my recollection) that he has fitted with a modified supercharger kit.</strong><hr></blockquote>well, I am going to try something first that really cannot be beat for the price... an adjustable voltage regulator (I am going to crank it up to 14.8 V), a new stock battery and a deep cycle auxiliary battery for the audio equipment. This is the absolute cheapest way to approach this I figured... And if it does not work, I will put the Delco alternator then...
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12-17-2002, 01:16 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Just so you know, there is no way the stock Bosch 115 amp alternator will put out even 14.4v once you start drawing ~ 45 amps. A voltage regulator set at 14.8v will only help you bring up the batteries quicker when your car has little other electrical loads.
You have too much load for your alternator. The rule of thumb for alternators is never produce over 80% of the rated capacity for over 20% of the life. You will kill the alternator in short order if you violate this rule. Just ask the mechanics that work on your local police or EMS vehicles. They go through alts like candy. Just the top light bar on a cop car can draw 1000 watts, easy. That is about 80 amps, add the rest of the gizmos like standard lighting and fans ....... you face the same thing with your amplifier.
You have too much load for your alternator. The rule of thumb for alternators is never produce over 80% of the rated capacity for over 20% of the life. You will kill the alternator in short order if you violate this rule. Just ask the mechanics that work on your local police or EMS vehicles. They go through alts like candy. Just the top light bar on a cop car can draw 1000 watts, easy. That is about 80 amps, add the rest of the gizmos like standard lighting and fans ....... you face the same thing with your amplifier.
12-18-2002, 04:48 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>Just so you know, there is no way the stock Bosch 115 amp alternator will put out even 14.4v once you start drawing ~ 45 amps. A voltage regulator set at 14.8v will only help you bring up the batteries quicker when your car has little other electrical loads.
You have too much load for your alternator. The rule of thumb for alternators is never produce over 80% of the rated capacity for over 20% of the life. You will kill the alternator in short order if you violate this rule. Just ask the mechanics that work on your local police or EMS vehicles. They go through alts like candy. Just the top light bar on a cop car can draw 1000 watts, easy. That is about 80 amps, add the rest of the gizmos like standard lighting and fans ....... you face the same thing with your amplifier.</strong><hr></blockquote>
well, you know... every little bit helps... considering that right now the battery is never fully charged up (this is why it dies after a couple of days of car sitting), I will have a better chance to keep it charged up... Nothing worse for the battery to be constantly undercharged... I will go with the DELCO in a few weeks but for now, the $15 effort will not hurt anything... What really gets me, is the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 that I have that has outrageous sound system but never dims the lights, can sit for a month with alarm on and starts up every time... And the stock alternator is only 110 A... I have the feeling that 1 volt in charging system makes a big difference... And if this alternator goes out, then be it... I have had many cars and Porsche charging system is the worst one yet...
<strong>Just so you know, there is no way the stock Bosch 115 amp alternator will put out even 14.4v once you start drawing ~ 45 amps. A voltage regulator set at 14.8v will only help you bring up the batteries quicker when your car has little other electrical loads.
You have too much load for your alternator. The rule of thumb for alternators is never produce over 80% of the rated capacity for over 20% of the life. You will kill the alternator in short order if you violate this rule. Just ask the mechanics that work on your local police or EMS vehicles. They go through alts like candy. Just the top light bar on a cop car can draw 1000 watts, easy. That is about 80 amps, add the rest of the gizmos like standard lighting and fans ....... you face the same thing with your amplifier.</strong><hr></blockquote>
well, you know... every little bit helps... considering that right now the battery is never fully charged up (this is why it dies after a couple of days of car sitting), I will have a better chance to keep it charged up... Nothing worse for the battery to be constantly undercharged... I will go with the DELCO in a few weeks but for now, the $15 effort will not hurt anything... What really gets me, is the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 that I have that has outrageous sound system but never dims the lights, can sit for a month with alarm on and starts up every time... And the stock alternator is only 110 A... I have the feeling that 1 volt in charging system makes a big difference... And if this alternator goes out, then be it... I have had many cars and Porsche charging system is the worst one yet...
12-20-2002, 11:15 AM
#10
Nordschleife Master
We have two issues, crummy Porsche wiring and Bosch that wants their regulators set so low. I've been told they didn't want to cook batteries by charging too fast but this is crazy when the battery never charges up unless you drive the car for 4 hours without any loads on.
Do what you can and a regulator up at 14.4 or above will push the battery up to full charge much faster and really does make a big difference. Just don't expect too much magic from that alone.
Aso make sure your cooling vent to the alternator is in place and in good shape. Heat will kill your alternator and the 944 engine bay is packed so tight.
However, all things considered, you shouldn't be knocking your battery down to non-functional in 3 days. There must be a draw somewhere so start the tedious process of figuring out where that is.
Do what you can and a regulator up at 14.4 or above will push the battery up to full charge much faster and really does make a big difference. Just don't expect too much magic from that alone.
Aso make sure your cooling vent to the alternator is in place and in good shape. Heat will kill your alternator and the 944 engine bay is packed so tight.
However, all things considered, you shouldn't be knocking your battery down to non-functional in 3 days. There must be a draw somewhere so start the tedious process of figuring out where that is.
12-21-2002, 12:11 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>We have two issues, crummy Porsche wiring and Bosch that wants their regulators set so low. I've been told they didn't want to cook batteries by charging too fast but this is crazy when the battery never charges up unless you drive the car for 4 hours without any loads on.
Do what you can and a regulator up at 14.4 or above will push the battery up to full charge much faster and really does make a big difference. Just don't expect too much magic from that alone.
Aso make sure your cooling vent to the alternator is in place and in good shape. Heat will kill your alternator and the 944 engine bay is packed so tight.
However, all things considered, you shouldn't be knocking your battery down to non-functional in 3 days. There must be a draw somewhere so start the tedious process of figuring out where that is.</strong><hr></blockquote>
<strong>We have two issues, crummy Porsche wiring and Bosch that wants their regulators set so low. I've been told they didn't want to cook batteries by charging too fast but this is crazy when the battery never charges up unless you drive the car for 4 hours without any loads on.
Do what you can and a regulator up at 14.4 or above will push the battery up to full charge much faster and really does make a big difference. Just don't expect too much magic from that alone.
Aso make sure your cooling vent to the alternator is in place and in good shape. Heat will kill your alternator and the 944 engine bay is packed so tight.
However, all things considered, you shouldn't be knocking your battery down to non-functional in 3 days. There must be a draw somewhere so start the tedious process of figuring out where that is.</strong><hr></blockquote>
12-21-2002, 12:29 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>We have two issues, crummy Porsche wiring and Bosch that wants their regulators set so low. I've been told they didn't want to cook batteries by charging too fast but this is crazy when the battery never charges up unless you drive the car for 4 hours without any loads on.
Do what you can and a regulator up at 14.4 or above will push the battery up to full charge much faster and really does make a big difference. Just don't expect too much magic from that alone.
Aso make sure your cooling vent to the alternator is in place and in good shape. Heat will kill your alternator and the 944 engine bay is packed so tight.
However, all things considered, you shouldn't be knocking your battery down to non-functional in 3 days. There must be a draw somewhere so start the tedious process of figuring out where that is.</strong><hr></blockquote>I could not agree with you more... Great summary of the existing situation... I have actually been driven to the electrical madness ever since I got this car, and that was a long time ago (1995)... Ever since I got this car, I have been haunted by the dead battery symptom... I have upgraded the cables quite a while ago to 0 gauge welding cables, I have grounded the engine block to the chasis with extra straps, replaced the battery ground, and nothing helped... Then I replaced the alternator itself (ouch, expensive!!!) and still, the best I could get was 13.8 with no load at about 2000rpm... With the lights, the voltage was 13.1, with a basic radio and fogligths, it dipped below 13.... No extra drain on the battery besides the locks and clock (a few miliamps), I did not even turn on my aftermarket alarm, still dead after about 4-5 days (with the aftermarket alarm using the door diodes for LED, the battery dies after 2-3 days. I went through the battery drain routine a few times checking all possibilities and so did places replacing my batteries under warranty, LOL... Everytime the charging system checked out and there was no extra drain... So I really think that anything will be better what I have now.. I know I am not the only one with this problem (and these are folks without elaborate audio systems...) So many posts everywhere on drained batteries on 944... BTW, do you know what is the strongest battery you can get for 944? I have an Interstate MT-41 with 650CCA right now, is there anything else out there that puts out more juice?
<strong>We have two issues, crummy Porsche wiring and Bosch that wants their regulators set so low. I've been told they didn't want to cook batteries by charging too fast but this is crazy when the battery never charges up unless you drive the car for 4 hours without any loads on.
Do what you can and a regulator up at 14.4 or above will push the battery up to full charge much faster and really does make a big difference. Just don't expect too much magic from that alone.
Aso make sure your cooling vent to the alternator is in place and in good shape. Heat will kill your alternator and the 944 engine bay is packed so tight.
However, all things considered, you shouldn't be knocking your battery down to non-functional in 3 days. There must be a draw somewhere so start the tedious process of figuring out where that is.</strong><hr></blockquote>I could not agree with you more... Great summary of the existing situation... I have actually been driven to the electrical madness ever since I got this car, and that was a long time ago (1995)... Ever since I got this car, I have been haunted by the dead battery symptom... I have upgraded the cables quite a while ago to 0 gauge welding cables, I have grounded the engine block to the chasis with extra straps, replaced the battery ground, and nothing helped... Then I replaced the alternator itself (ouch, expensive!!!) and still, the best I could get was 13.8 with no load at about 2000rpm... With the lights, the voltage was 13.1, with a basic radio and fogligths, it dipped below 13.... No extra drain on the battery besides the locks and clock (a few miliamps), I did not even turn on my aftermarket alarm, still dead after about 4-5 days (with the aftermarket alarm using the door diodes for LED, the battery dies after 2-3 days. I went through the battery drain routine a few times checking all possibilities and so did places replacing my batteries under warranty, LOL... Everytime the charging system checked out and there was no extra drain... So I really think that anything will be better what I have now.. I know I am not the only one with this problem (and these are folks without elaborate audio systems...) So many posts everywhere on drained batteries on 944... BTW, do you know what is the strongest battery you can get for 944? I have an Interstate MT-41 with 650CCA right now, is there anything else out there that puts out more juice?
12-21-2002, 03:27 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
I have a die hard group 41 battery that is rated at 650 CCA at 0 also. That is about as big as you are going to find that will just slip into the stock battery box. It think the gell optimas are rated higher except you will have to monkey around with a new hold down strap and someone was saying you need to mount it on its side to clear the hood. There isn't a lot of extra room in the battery box unless you are going to stick a big battery in the rear. Then you have to worry about running a big fat positive to the front of the car and shorting it and starting the car on fire.
I have the original alternator (1988 115amp) but I replaced the regulator with a 14.4 volt adjustable. I have additional grounds to the forward frame rails (the lighting grounds) from the block and my IceShark Headlight kit which pulls the positive for forward lighting directly off the alternator.
For now, just stock wiring for everything else although I'm making the battery cable upgrade project and will have new results after that is in this weekend.
So with the headlight kit, stock battery wiring, 14.4 v regulator, car at idle and 550 watts of lighting I get 13.9 volts at the battery and about 14.25 to 14.3 at the headlight bulbs if it isn't too hot in the engine bay. So, I'm only dropping about 0.1 v to my lights going through fuses and relays and such, but I am losing a half volt in the OEM battery cables. Hopefully that will change.
You say you put in #0 gauge cable? How on earth did you fit that to the alternator inside the heat shield? That is way overkill from a resistance standpoint even if you were to draw 115 amps through that cable. The alternator can't maintain voltage when you start drawing much over 45 amps so a little loss in the cable can be tolerated.
Anyway, something is goofy with your system. A new regulator set at a higher voltage should help quite a bit and once you get the battery charged up you should see over 14 volts at the battery if your loads aren't too high with that massive #0 gauge cable.
But the battery going dead in 3 days of sitting is a real mystery if you have measured the draw with the car off. The battery top isn't dirty is it and having a slight short across the top? You are in Sacramento so don't have the ocean around, this dirty top business can happen in salt air enviroments. Charge the battery up, pull the cables and see what happens just sitting for 3 days.
I have the original alternator (1988 115amp) but I replaced the regulator with a 14.4 volt adjustable. I have additional grounds to the forward frame rails (the lighting grounds) from the block and my IceShark Headlight kit which pulls the positive for forward lighting directly off the alternator.
For now, just stock wiring for everything else although I'm making the battery cable upgrade project and will have new results after that is in this weekend.
So with the headlight kit, stock battery wiring, 14.4 v regulator, car at idle and 550 watts of lighting I get 13.9 volts at the battery and about 14.25 to 14.3 at the headlight bulbs if it isn't too hot in the engine bay. So, I'm only dropping about 0.1 v to my lights going through fuses and relays and such, but I am losing a half volt in the OEM battery cables. Hopefully that will change.
You say you put in #0 gauge cable? How on earth did you fit that to the alternator inside the heat shield? That is way overkill from a resistance standpoint even if you were to draw 115 amps through that cable. The alternator can't maintain voltage when you start drawing much over 45 amps so a little loss in the cable can be tolerated.
Anyway, something is goofy with your system. A new regulator set at a higher voltage should help quite a bit and once you get the battery charged up you should see over 14 volts at the battery if your loads aren't too high with that massive #0 gauge cable.
But the battery going dead in 3 days of sitting is a real mystery if you have measured the draw with the car off. The battery top isn't dirty is it and having a slight short across the top? You are in Sacramento so don't have the ocean around, this dirty top business can happen in salt air enviroments. Charge the battery up, pull the cables and see what happens just sitting for 3 days.
12-21-2002, 07:50 PM
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Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>I have a die hard group 41 battery that is rated at 650 CCA at 0 also. That is about as big as you are going to find that will just slip into the stock battery box. It think the gell optimas are rated higher except you will have to monkey around with a new hold down strap and someone was saying you need to mount it on its side to clear the hood. There isn't a lot of extra room in the battery box unless you are going to stick a big battery in the rear. Then you have to worry about running a big fat positive to the front of the car and shorting it and starting the car on fire.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I was afraid this is as good as it gets... I looked high and low and could not come up with anything... I think I am going to get a batcap 800 battery to supplement the main one and put it in the trunk (it is only 10lb and half size)... I am not really keen on putting the optima on its side, just a little too non-stock for me... Too bad the height of the battery is so limited (6.75 inch I think...). All good batteries are way taller...
<strong>
I have the original alternator (1988 115amp) but I replaced the regulator with a 14.4 volt adjustable. I have additional grounds to the forward frame rails (the lighting grounds) from the block and my IceShark Headlight kit which pulls the positive for forward lighting directly off the alternator.
For now, just stock wiring for everything else although I'm making the battery cable upgrade project and will have new results after that is in this weekend.
So with the headlight kit, stock battery wiring, 14.4 v regulator, car at idle and 550 watts of lighting I get 13.9 volts at the battery and about 14.25 to 14.3 at the headlight bulbs if it isn't too hot in the engine bay. So, I'm only dropping about 0.1 v to my lights going through fuses and relays and such, but I am losing a half volt in the OEM battery cables. Hopefully that will change.
</strong>
<strong>I have a die hard group 41 battery that is rated at 650 CCA at 0 also. That is about as big as you are going to find that will just slip into the stock battery box. It think the gell optimas are rated higher except you will have to monkey around with a new hold down strap and someone was saying you need to mount it on its side to clear the hood. There isn't a lot of extra room in the battery box unless you are going to stick a big battery in the rear. Then you have to worry about running a big fat positive to the front of the car and shorting it and starting the car on fire.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I was afraid this is as good as it gets... I looked high and low and could not come up with anything... I think I am going to get a batcap 800 battery to supplement the main one and put it in the trunk (it is only 10lb and half size)... I am not really keen on putting the optima on its side, just a little too non-stock for me... Too bad the height of the battery is so limited (6.75 inch I think...). All good batteries are way taller...
<strong>
I have the original alternator (1988 115amp) but I replaced the regulator with a 14.4 volt adjustable. I have additional grounds to the forward frame rails (the lighting grounds) from the block and my IceShark Headlight kit which pulls the positive for forward lighting directly off the alternator.
For now, just stock wiring for everything else although I'm making the battery cable upgrade project and will have new results after that is in this weekend.
So with the headlight kit, stock battery wiring, 14.4 v regulator, car at idle and 550 watts of lighting I get 13.9 volts at the battery and about 14.25 to 14.3 at the headlight bulbs if it isn't too hot in the engine bay. So, I'm only dropping about 0.1 v to my lights going through fuses and relays and such, but I am losing a half volt in the OEM battery cables. Hopefully that will change.
</strong>
<strong>
You say you put in #0 gauge cable? How on earth did you fit that to the alternator inside the heat shield? That is way overkill from a resistance standpoint even if you were to draw 115 amps through that cable. The alternator can't maintain voltage when you start drawing much over 45 amps so a little loss in the cable can be tolerated.
</strong>[/QUOTE]
Not really an overkill since I am doing this very soon for my audio system... Mounting is very easy actually... On the 90 S2, the wires plug on the top of the alternator through a rubber grommet, had to cut the grommet and then after the cable went through it, just use rubber sealant to make it look nice... It is very easy actually, just had to solder new connector... BTW, have you thought about rerouting the battery cable straight to the alternator instead of going through the starter? This is such a screwy set up... If you have a short on the starter (they do that eventually...), your battery dies too...
<strong>
Anyway, something is goofy with your system. A new regulator set at a higher voltage should help quite a bit and once you get the battery charged up you should see over 14 volts at the battery if your loads aren't too high with that massive #0 gauge cable.
</strong>[/QUOTE]
I certainly hope so... I cannot believe that it is so easy to up the voltage yet you cannot find this info no matter how hard you try... I only found out by accident just when I was going to order the 250A alternator...
<strong>
But the battery going dead in 3 days of sitting is a real mystery if you have measured the draw with the car off. The battery top isn't dirty is it and having a slight short across the top? You are in Sacramento so don't have the ocean around, this dirty top business can happen in salt air enviroments. Charge the battery up, pull the cables and see what happens just sitting for 3 days.</strong>[/QUOTE]
LOL, you can eat from the engine compartment of my car... the battery is spotless, I actually have it out for the last 2 months because the damn car leaks in the rain and I did not want to bother with the battery until I do something about the charging system... Anyway, there is not a spec of dirt on the battery or terminals... Actually, I think I can kiss this battery goodbye anyway because last time I recharged it (out of the car of cours), it died after sitting for 5 days and being disconnected... I really believe that driving with undercharged battery really kills it slowly plus it does not take much of a constant drain to discharge the battery when it is not fully charged to begin with... At least this is what I think... Otherwise, how can you explain my 3000GT VR4 sitting with alarm on and starting just fine after a month?
12-21-2002, 09:23 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
Well you are correct on a battery never being up to full charge going a not so slow death. That is what happened to me when I started a few years ago on the lighting upgrade project. I only had 10.5 volts at the lights and could never keep that darn battery up to full charge. Replace yours for $70 when you put in the new regulator and see what happens. You can sulfate the battery plates and they don't work so good after that.
I am keeping my regulator set at 14.4v because my 90 watt H4s and 100w H3s will have too short of a life if I overdrive the voltage much more. Design voltage is 13.2v, I get plenty of lumens for my eyes and I don't want to be changing these bulbs out every time I turn around. We tested the alt, regulator and lights out on the machine and decided the 14.4v was the best setting. Maybe when my eyes go a little more with aging I will change my tune. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
Yes, I am thinking about a reroute on the run from alt directly to battery. You need to poke a new hole thru the rubber grommet in the firewall and I need to look at that. But a routing to the starter is not that unusual. If your starter shorts out you will kill the battery anyway as the positives are all connected and will flow current.
There are a couple routing problems like putting a new covering on the starter solenoid wire, but all in all, it should be a better and shorter routing. And you take the wire out of harm's way curving around the bellhousing. I have my wire fused and covered in fiberglass sleeve but I still don't like it running down to the starter.
I think tomorrow I will make that run and see how it works. I'll probably just punch a new hole in the firewall and grommet that as I don't want the old grommet falling apart and cutting the cable.
I am keeping my regulator set at 14.4v because my 90 watt H4s and 100w H3s will have too short of a life if I overdrive the voltage much more. Design voltage is 13.2v, I get plenty of lumens for my eyes and I don't want to be changing these bulbs out every time I turn around. We tested the alt, regulator and lights out on the machine and decided the 14.4v was the best setting. Maybe when my eyes go a little more with aging I will change my tune. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
Yes, I am thinking about a reroute on the run from alt directly to battery. You need to poke a new hole thru the rubber grommet in the firewall and I need to look at that. But a routing to the starter is not that unusual. If your starter shorts out you will kill the battery anyway as the positives are all connected and will flow current.
There are a couple routing problems like putting a new covering on the starter solenoid wire, but all in all, it should be a better and shorter routing. And you take the wire out of harm's way curving around the bellhousing. I have my wire fused and covered in fiberglass sleeve but I still don't like it running down to the starter.
I think tomorrow I will make that run and see how it works. I'll probably just punch a new hole in the firewall and grommet that as I don't want the old grommet falling apart and cutting the cable.