Turn Signal Doesn't Return
08-09-2002, 04:44 PM
#1
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Turn Signal Doesn't Return
My left signal does not return to the off position after a turn, but from the manual diagrams I can't tell what part would need to be replaced. Anyone out there know what I need to do?
FYI I have a driver's side airbag in the whell (not sure if this was standard or an option in '87.)
FYI I have a driver's side airbag in the whell (not sure if this was standard or an option in '87.)
08-10-2002, 11:30 PM
#3
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Easy solution: Always turn right!
Seriously: Someone posted on the other board that you could take it apart and put a little tape on the small plastic actuater that turns the signal off. This was on a non-airbag car but it may be possible on yours too.
Seriously: Someone posted on the other board that you could take it apart and put a little tape on the small plastic actuater that turns the signal off. This was on a non-airbag car but it may be possible on yours too.
08-11-2002, 03:23 AM
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What does the piece of tape do and where do you put it? I have taken mine off to inspect it so I think I know where you are talking about but don't understand the thing with the tape. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
08-20-2002, 01:14 PM
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Read all of this before removing your steering wheel!
I've had the non-cancel problem since the car (85.5 944)was new. Under warranty the dealer even replaced the entire cluster of levers. It worked for a while, then problems again. Then I tried the tape solution. Multiple layers of tape on the outside of the plastic arc attached to the horn wiper contact. This in NOT an airbag car, by the way. The tape would work for a while, then start to fail. The final fix (a month ago) was to take a closer look at how this whole thing works. First, make sure the plastic arc is located properly. If it's ever been removed (to have the wheel recovered, for instance), it can be mounted in two locations, both of which will allow the horn wire to pass through the hub. When you remove the wheel, be sure the wheel is in the "dead ahead" position. The steering wheel lock will usually engage in this position. When the wheel is installed, the plastic arc must face the turn signal lever. The other possible location is 120 degrees off. Three screws mount the arc to the wheel.
How does it work?
If you fiddle with the white plastic lever protruding from the turn signal assembly toward the steering shaft, you will finally discover what happens when you make and cancel a signal. First, while the wheel is dead ahead, making a signal pushes the lever against the arc, but it's spring-loaded so nothing is damaged. Second, when the arc turns past the lever as you make the turn, you can hear a faint click as the tip now protrudes past the plastic arc. Third, as the wheel is returned to center, the arc pushes the lever, up or down depending on signal direction, and releases the signal lever - canceling the signal. The problem comes from the fact that it appears the plastic arc is not large enough in diameter to push the lever firmly. Tape builds up the diameter, but the EDGE of the tape rapidly wears down, and it?s the EDGE that pushes the cancel lever, not the DIAMETER (surface). This I've learned after 17 years experience.
The solution, which has worked a month so far, was to use a heat gun to warm and gently move the arc outward relative the axis of the wheel. This is potentially destructive because I'm not sure what the plastic is, and some plastics demonstrate a very sharp transition between stiff and melted. I heated the bottom of the arc, pushing on the inside with the outer surface of a large socket on an extension to distribute the force. Be sure to heat both sides of the arc segment. When it appeared to move a little easier, I held the arc in place when the rim of the arc was about 2mm from its original position. Hold it there while the plastic cools. You can use a damp cloth to speed up the cooling but unless the plastic is totally and uniformly cooled in this stressed position, further cooling will cause it to return to its original position, so take your time. Time will tell if this is the permanent fix, but it works now, and with NO tape.
I've had the non-cancel problem since the car (85.5 944)was new. Under warranty the dealer even replaced the entire cluster of levers. It worked for a while, then problems again. Then I tried the tape solution. Multiple layers of tape on the outside of the plastic arc attached to the horn wiper contact. This in NOT an airbag car, by the way. The tape would work for a while, then start to fail. The final fix (a month ago) was to take a closer look at how this whole thing works. First, make sure the plastic arc is located properly. If it's ever been removed (to have the wheel recovered, for instance), it can be mounted in two locations, both of which will allow the horn wire to pass through the hub. When you remove the wheel, be sure the wheel is in the "dead ahead" position. The steering wheel lock will usually engage in this position. When the wheel is installed, the plastic arc must face the turn signal lever. The other possible location is 120 degrees off. Three screws mount the arc to the wheel.
How does it work?
If you fiddle with the white plastic lever protruding from the turn signal assembly toward the steering shaft, you will finally discover what happens when you make and cancel a signal. First, while the wheel is dead ahead, making a signal pushes the lever against the arc, but it's spring-loaded so nothing is damaged. Second, when the arc turns past the lever as you make the turn, you can hear a faint click as the tip now protrudes past the plastic arc. Third, as the wheel is returned to center, the arc pushes the lever, up or down depending on signal direction, and releases the signal lever - canceling the signal. The problem comes from the fact that it appears the plastic arc is not large enough in diameter to push the lever firmly. Tape builds up the diameter, but the EDGE of the tape rapidly wears down, and it?s the EDGE that pushes the cancel lever, not the DIAMETER (surface). This I've learned after 17 years experience.
The solution, which has worked a month so far, was to use a heat gun to warm and gently move the arc outward relative the axis of the wheel. This is potentially destructive because I'm not sure what the plastic is, and some plastics demonstrate a very sharp transition between stiff and melted. I heated the bottom of the arc, pushing on the inside with the outer surface of a large socket on an extension to distribute the force. Be sure to heat both sides of the arc segment. When it appeared to move a little easier, I held the arc in place when the rim of the arc was about 2mm from its original position. Hold it there while the plastic cools. You can use a damp cloth to speed up the cooling but unless the plastic is totally and uniformly cooled in this stressed position, further cooling will cause it to return to its original position, so take your time. Time will tell if this is the permanent fix, but it works now, and with NO tape.
