Oil cooler alignment pin?
#47
Any particular reason why? With the gear flipped around correctly, the plastic cover shouldn't interfere with the gear operation right? the drive gear plus washer thickness is greater than the thickness of the plastic shroud. I've already cleaned up any stray plastic bits that might mess with the operation.
I have access to another plastic cover I can check out and see, but it just seems unnecessary. I've already undone my timing and balance shaft belts.
I have access to another plastic cover I can check out and see, but it just seems unnecessary. I've already undone my timing and balance shaft belts.
#48
Got the gear flipped back the proper way.....still no dice on pressure.....
I'm going to taking back apart and see if I'm still missing something, but it seems like it should all be there. I'll start with removing the PS pulley, then I'll double check that the drive gear is properly engaging. I'm also going to see if I can't borrow a less used torque wrench, since it's possible that my rented one is way beyond calibration. Beyond that, it seems as if my oil pump is going to have to come off and be replaced.
And on that note, how freely should the pump gear move? I never took apart the pump when I had the engine apart (never saw any recommendation to and didn't want to strip out the allen head countersunk bolts), so it could be that. I also suppose that my OPRV could still be bad. I am running my original one, since swapping out for a new one didn't help, but that was before I changed my gear around.
I'm going to taking back apart and see if I'm still missing something, but it seems like it should all be there. I'll start with removing the PS pulley, then I'll double check that the drive gear is properly engaging. I'm also going to see if I can't borrow a less used torque wrench, since it's possible that my rented one is way beyond calibration. Beyond that, it seems as if my oil pump is going to have to come off and be replaced.
And on that note, how freely should the pump gear move? I never took apart the pump when I had the engine apart (never saw any recommendation to and didn't want to strip out the allen head countersunk bolts), so it could be that. I also suppose that my OPRV could still be bad. I am running my original one, since swapping out for a new one didn't help, but that was before I changed my gear around.
#50
Yeah, you're telling me :/
And unfortunately, the next two weekends are raining, so I'm not going to be able to get at it. It's also not something I'm looking forward to since I'll need to lower the oil pan
And unfortunately, the next two weekends are raining, so I'm not going to be able to get at it. It's also not something I'm looking forward to since I'll need to lower the oil pan
#51
before thinking about an oil pump PLEASE get a mechanical gauge.
one is WAY cheaper and easier to try than the other...
the stock 944 oil pressure gauges are notoriously unreliable.
i dont think ive ever seen one that actually works 100% of the time, regardless of brand of sender. i think they just get screwy with age.
for example, yesterday on a 60 degree morning my gauge showed 2 bar at idle (20w50). with the engine warmed up, it was just sitting on 0. no engine noise, no oil light, just dead gauge.
some days itll function correctly and show 3 bar at warm idle and peg at 5 by about 2000rpm. some days it doesnt work at all.
one is WAY cheaper and easier to try than the other...
the stock 944 oil pressure gauges are notoriously unreliable.
i dont think ive ever seen one that actually works 100% of the time, regardless of brand of sender. i think they just get screwy with age.
for example, yesterday on a 60 degree morning my gauge showed 2 bar at idle (20w50). with the engine warmed up, it was just sitting on 0. no engine noise, no oil light, just dead gauge.
some days itll function correctly and show 3 bar at warm idle and peg at 5 by about 2000rpm. some days it doesnt work at all.
#52
Bah, y'all have twisted my arm enough. Just ordered the adapter from Lindsey racing (I still think $48 after shipping is really expensive, but it's necessary at this point). I also ordered my own 1/2" torque wrench since I've rented/borrowed one enough at this point.
I'll keep you guys updated when I get it in.
I'll keep you guys updated when I get it in.
#53
Alright, just installed the adapter for the oil pressure gauge and a mechanical gauge......
It tracks the same as my in car gauge, with maybe 1/8-1/4 bar variation... starts at 0 bar when the crank is initially cranked, then slowly climbs to 1bar, where it stays.
Current temperature is 46 F, with 20W50 oil.
So,
Not my gauge, not my oil, not my oil cooler alignment, no oil leaks, not my torque value, not my oil pickup tub or seal, not my rod bearings, not my backwards timing belt gear that I flipped around correctly...
That leaves the oil pump being bad, and technically, it may still be my OPRV, since I swapped them out and then back before knowing about my timing belt gear. I can try removing my PS pulley, but I made certain it was centered last time, so I feel like that's reaching. Both of these make some sense as to why the engine failed in the first place.
When the weather clears up, I'll get out there to pull the pump, open it up, and see what's going on.
If none of this works, I'll probably be selling the thing since my patience is wearing out.
It tracks the same as my in car gauge, with maybe 1/8-1/4 bar variation... starts at 0 bar when the crank is initially cranked, then slowly climbs to 1bar, where it stays.
Current temperature is 46 F, with 20W50 oil.
So,
Not my gauge, not my oil, not my oil cooler alignment, no oil leaks, not my torque value, not my oil pickup tub or seal, not my rod bearings, not my backwards timing belt gear that I flipped around correctly...
That leaves the oil pump being bad, and technically, it may still be my OPRV, since I swapped them out and then back before knowing about my timing belt gear. I can try removing my PS pulley, but I made certain it was centered last time, so I feel like that's reaching. Both of these make some sense as to why the engine failed in the first place.
When the weather clears up, I'll get out there to pull the pump, open it up, and see what's going on.
If none of this works, I'll probably be selling the thing since my patience is wearing out.
#54
As I figured, removing the PS pulley made no difference. I've removed everything down until the oil pump drive gear. I did notice a sheen of oil in part of the oil pan gasket. I'll need to remove the back plastic cover before I can go further. Any tips on getting the drive gear out (undamaged) would also be appreciated.
#56
I'll try to grab it with a set of channel locks once I get the plastic cover out and have more room to maneuver. I'm going to try and preserve that seal if at all possible since it's new. Worst case I'll have to pull the whole pump off with it, which I might just do anyways since I'm going to try and open the pump up anyways.
I'm really hoping that I've just botched up sealing the pump and it's sucking in air. I used a good amount of that Loctite, but we'll see.
I'll keep you guys updated, and the continued support is much appreciated.
I'm really hoping that I've just botched up sealing the pump and it's sucking in air. I used a good amount of that Loctite, but we'll see.
I'll keep you guys updated, and the continued support is much appreciated.
#57
Got the cover off, and the drive gear pulled out. It looks like there is some slight wear on the drive gear. I should probably replace it at this point, though I don't think that's causing my issue.
Looking around the pump, I don't see any evidence of leaking around the anaerobic seal. I think that oil sheen on the oil pan gasket was just from when I pulled the oil pan and reinstalled it.
I took a mechanics pick and was able to turn the gear inside the oil pump without much effort, so it spins easily and doesn't appear to be binding anywhere.
I think I'll get a fresh/working OPRV again and reinstall things (without the plastic cover unless that's a no-no), and just see what happens and see if anything is actively leaking.
There really isn't much else left at this point. I'll also make sure to prime the oil pump. I got to be close at this point....
Looking around the pump, I don't see any evidence of leaking around the anaerobic seal. I think that oil sheen on the oil pan gasket was just from when I pulled the oil pan and reinstalled it.
I took a mechanics pick and was able to turn the gear inside the oil pump without much effort, so it spins easily and doesn't appear to be binding anywhere.
I think I'll get a fresh/working OPRV again and reinstall things (without the plastic cover unless that's a no-no), and just see what happens and see if anything is actively leaking.
There really isn't much else left at this point. I'll also make sure to prime the oil pump. I got to be close at this point....
#60
Reassembled the timing belt gear nin the correct orientation, reinstalled my belts, torqued to 155 ft-lbs, installed a new OPRV, poured oil down the center oil filter tube (part with the threads), hand cranked the engine backwards a couple times, and cranked the car.
Watching the manual gauge, the very rapidly builds to 2 bar and more or less stays there. I've attached about a minute long video of the gauge. Thoughts? Has my pressure issue been solved?
(I couldn't figure out how to add a video directly, so it's a link to a public facebook post)
Watching the manual gauge, the very rapidly builds to 2 bar and more or less stays there. I've attached about a minute long video of the gauge. Thoughts? Has my pressure issue been solved?
(I couldn't figure out how to add a video directly, so it's a link to a public facebook post)
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