Socal_Tom

Thanks gentlemen - will check those options out. Appreciate the info.

worf928

I think one of my client's 928s will be sporting the first example of Shaun's restored parts on a 928. Shaun has a distinguished client list and reputation in the 911 world. He's actually working on restoring an S4 (see referenced thread.)

This -^

As in many things, prep is 90% of the outcome.

TL;DR Bottom Line:

If you want the best outcome go with Shaun.

If you want as-inexpensive-as-possible, don't mind inconsistent quality, and are willing to take the risk of loosing a few fasteners then get them done in-bulk, priced by-weight.

There's no clear-cut answer. Either (or a middle road) is fine depending upon your context.

Exposition:

I've done plating for myself and for my clients. My outcome has been inconsistent but pretty good in most cases. I have learned a lot about the prep, process, needed equipment, and the time involved.

What you need to know about Shaun's work is that he preps each piece by hand until it is as perfect as allowed by the piece being worked. If a part turns out 'bad', Shaun will strip it, re-prep it and re-plate it. Rob Edward's OCD's got nothin' - nothin' - on Shaun. His stuff is like jewelry. He can make it better than it was when new if you are willing to pay for the time required.

His pricing reflects the time needed for his craft and the outcome. Man's gotta eat and prepping each fastener takes time.

I know I can't do it quicker (with a poorer outcome) than he can (with his OCD outcome.) I was loosing money when I did the plating as part of an intake refresh.

Here's an example of Shaun's work on my client's '87. My crappy shop camera and middling photog-skilz doesn't come close to doing it justice.



Obviously, the cable linkage has been plated. The plenum bolts were re-anodized in black and the intake itself is done in Cerekote. Shaun went through about a dozen test pieces to get as close-as-anyone-can-remember to the OE color and sheen.

NoVector

What are you guys using to keep it nice and shiny? A light top coat of clear rattle-can paint did nothing for me. Albeit, Germany has uber high humidity/rain. I.e., to look at the engine in the winter months, it's covered in dew.

I started using Fluid Film a couple years ago and that seems to work well--but it's kind of a pita to spray on throughout the year(s).

granprixweiss928

Cad should last longer. My engine clamps that were yellow zinc turned silver in one year- and I dont drive my car very often.

The Forgotten On

Cad seems like it can last forever, at least the old stuff. My clamps are still very yellow, and very original at 37 years old.

I guess the yellow coating itself wears off quickly leaving the zinc underneath untouched.

voskian

I had searched and found WD40 lightly coated on cad hardware will keep them looking bright. I've been doing that now for 4 years now on my 91 GT original engine hardware and they still look great.

Dave928S

^^^ Wow, that looks brilliant .. literally. No wonder it's a concours winner

Shaun @ Tru6

Thank you Gentlemen for the kind words, it just comes down to loving what you do. And my passion is surface prep whether plating, anodizing, chrome or Cerakote. Pics of a typical job below, received, prepped ready for plating, plated by one of the best platers in the country, they also do all of Paul Russell's work. I replace all lock/wave/Schnorr washers with new; they've lived a hard life on the car and should be renewed. And with over 15,000 pieces plated have never lost a single one, even the tiniest M3 hardware from a 512BB carb rebuild.

Socal_Tom

Beautiful work

Bertrand Daoust

+1.

Captain_Slow

About the same difficulty as making biodiesel...and a little more challenging than making beer. I'm in...


And this way more entertaining and educational (particularly on the safety info)

NoVector

I don't know about biodiesel, but I do make beer - so I agree

Captain_Slow

No Vector -- the parts look great. How long does the brassy finish last?

It's the nasty chemicals involved in making biodiesel that puts it on par with plating. To "crack" the veggie oil into essentially two constituents - biodiesel (fatty acid methyl esters) and glycerine (a type of alcohol) a mix of methanol and sodium hydroxide, producing an especially nasty base solution called sodium methoxide, is used. Making biodiesel is very easy IF using pure veggie oil anyone can buy at the grocery store - just a simple recipe. During the entire process, or until the oil and sodium methoxide have finished reacting, safety gear like shown in the video is a must. I've made it outside or under a fume hood. I can say from first hand experience it is safe to drink the biodiesel product....but that's another story.

Socal_Tom

Safe to drink? There is a story in there somewhere....

Question - any concerns over the threads or inside of the fuel rails when plating? Is the plating so think as to not make a difference to the threads?

Eplebnista

Electroplating puts on a very thin deposit. The only issue I have ever encountered is that hose clamps need a spritz or two of penetrating oil after being plated. I suspect the acid dip and subsequent plating process promotes binding of the captive screw.

The nastiest chemical involved in the home plating process is the hydrochloric acid solution used to clean the parts immediately before putting them in the plating solution. The passivate is also not something I would make into a summer cocktail. I bought two gallon plastic paint containers at Home Depot that have tight snap on lid and just leave the chemicals in those and snap the lids on when not in use. These lids are tight and if She Who Must Be Obeyed has not complained about them being stored under the laundry room utility sink, they must not be emitting any detectable vapors.