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Chevy 350.

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Old 11-19-2003, 01:52 PM
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ViribusUnits
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Default Chevy 350.

Lets say I wanted to build a Chevy 350 with equlivelent longivity to the Porsche GTS engine. And power too.

So I can get the 345 hp easily enough from intake, heads, cams, exauste, and so forth.

What do I have to fix to make it hold up over time?

Lets see, NiCal coatings on the cylinders instead of nitrated cast iorn or steel.

Better valve stem seals.

The ignition and EFI is almost the same now, so no worrys there. The valve train has hydrolic lifters, probably roller, so no worrys there.

What else goes bye bye on a Chevy?
Old 11-19-2003, 02:48 PM
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personality and character!

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Old 11-19-2003, 02:57 PM
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Keep the compression low and the motor will last longer.
Old 11-19-2003, 02:58 PM
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Why? What it going to break if the compression is too high?

I mean if you avoid detonation that is...
Old 11-19-2003, 03:03 PM
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drnick
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are you going to re-engine your porsche? you know it wont be a 'real' porsche any more..
Old 11-19-2003, 03:05 PM
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Don't start that.

Lets just say I want a Chevy, OK?
Old 11-19-2003, 03:14 PM
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MikeN
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Four bolt main block for overall strength, premium timing gear/chain setup, I'm sure I'm missing a few other items........
Old 11-19-2003, 03:17 PM
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personality and character!
well put!

Sorry cant answer your question Viribus

Old 11-19-2003, 03:31 PM
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Bob L
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I doubt you could do it, though fuel injection would be a requirement if you are going to come close. The bottom ends on 350s are plenty strong, even the two bolt mains.

I'm going to disagree with the lowering compression suggestion. Up to a point (say 10:1), more compression is a reliable way of adding power, more reliable than spinning the motor faster.

The real problem is the valvetrain, more specifically, the valvetrain mass. At 350 HP, you need a lot of airflow, which means both RPMs and lift. Unless you work on pulling mass out of the valvetrain, you will need lots of spring pressure, which is antithetical to long life. OHC engines have a huge advantage in this area...
Old 11-19-2003, 03:39 PM
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High quality parts cost money.
So if you want really durable pistons, crank, cams, lifters, etc, they will end up costing a lot of $$$.

The main appeal of a SBC, is that if it starts showing signs of age, you can pull the engine,
and drop in a new crate engine, or rebuild it completely, for very little money.
You don't have to use a specialty shop. Many people know how to rebuild them,
and many machine shops know them inside and out. It's really cheap to just
order another *new* crate engine, that is ready to run, for the price of a *used* 928 engine...
Old 11-19-2003, 03:46 PM
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Brent 89-GT
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I'm not convinced that a small block chevy can be built to last as long as a 928 engine. You know what though, who cares? You can easily build it to run 400-450hp for 50-60k miles. Then you can throw it away and replace it with another for $5k. 50k miles is a long time for most of us and 5k is only a couple years worth of maint on a 928. Of course not all of that is engine related but a convincing case can be made

If you change up to the new design LS-1 smallblock, I bet you can easily crank out 400hp for 100-150k miles. That is what a stock Z06 runs.

Of course I didn't buy a Porsche to power it with a Chevy. In fact when I bought a muscle car I avoided Chevy's and bought a Buick. There is something cheap and simple about Chevy, everything else is a step up. That is where I want to be, a step up.
Old 11-19-2003, 03:58 PM
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When I say lower compression is more reliable im talking in the range of 10:1 or 11:1 compression. I have had hot rod motors with 12:1 and 13:1 with hot cams. That type of stuff makes the car idle rough. Its a fact that higher compression results in higher stress on rods, pistons, bearings, etc..

Thats why keeping it a lower compression motor, say under 11:1 will result in better daily driveablity and longer life. It also depends on your driving style as well.

And yes, headwork is very critical in producing good hp numbers. Go with the lightweight titanium stuff and a good set of aluminum heads. Roller cam and lifters are also good but add quite a bit of money over a standard cam and lifters.
Old 11-19-2003, 04:02 PM
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Buy a stock LS6 and drop it in = 350bhp
I know a few C5 owners at 100K+ for miles with no issues.

Or, go for broke and order a C5-R crate motor.
Old 11-19-2003, 04:11 PM
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George 911-V8
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Jegs has a ZZ4 crate motor 355hp for about 4k


George
Old 11-19-2003, 04:33 PM
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Buy a 405HP LS1 motor, lower the redline and tune it conservatively for 50 less HP or so and it'll last 200K miles easily. Alternatively get an LT1 and squeeze a few more HP out of it, or an LT4 and leave it more or less stock.

Weren't there some failures with the GTS engine? I always thought the S4 motor was the long-lived lump.

The SBC motor is pretty great, and really makes you wonder what the 928 motor would be like if it had lived as long and been developed as much. I liken the SBC to the old air-cooled 911 motor. Despite it's shortcomings it really makes a lot of power reliably.

Also consider that Chevy had the 32v LT5 and the Northstar family of OHC engines but still chose the pushrod motor for the Z06 'vette.

-Joel.


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