..... Thinks tone might be harsh. Don't take it that way please.

---
How would water get into the cylinders?

Cleaning method for me depends a lot on what it's all fouled with. For most oil-related stuff, especially if there's thick accumulations, I might start off with Gunk Foamy Engine Brite in the spray cans. It's solvent-based so no corrosion issues with the aluminum stuff. Avoid at all costs the Purple degreasers, which are caustic and will will corrode the aluminum unless extremely thoroughly rinsed. Labels warn you.

If the crud isn't severe, I use a good detergent and hot water. 409 is better than Simple Green in my experience. I finish either method (Gunk or detergent) with car wash soap.

Others here have recommended some Sonax products. I haven't needed to do any more than a some very basic light cleaning on mine in a very long time, so have no direct experience with these yet. I'm sure others will chime in. The engine bay cleaning stuff has improved immensely.

 

When you are circulating the oil pay close attention to the cam tower seals. It would be a huge suck to do the timing belt water pump and such just to find the cam towers are leaking after everything is buttoned up.

 

Just a suggestion, but I don't think you need to do the TB/WP right away. It's an '81. If the belt breaks or skip a tooth the worst you'll need is a tow. Work on getting in running first. If it leaks a lot of coolant from the WP then you gotta do it. But if it doesn't, get some miles on it and figure out all the other stuff it may need based on the road test. Save the TB/WP job for the cold winter months. Just my .02

 

^ he is in CA so not much not much cold going on in winter :-)

 

So using my newbie status here to ask this question, but why ATF as opposed to simply using regular oil to temperature and then drain and replace?

 

Lol. Cold to those guys is anything in the 60's! Haha

 

Change the oil. Put in a bottle of Swebco 502. Follow the directions on the bottle. I'd put in the best oil I could find, in order to get the best lubricaton possible. An oil high in ZDDP would be fantastic.

I'd use Brad Penn 20-50....only!

Why anyone would want to use "cheap" oil at this critical time is beyond me.

Drain the coolant. Flush the system. Remove the thermostat and test in a pan of boiling water. Replace if necessary. Re-assemble. Refill with economical coolant, for now. 25% will work fine.

Clean the fuel system. Replace all pieces damaged from sitting. Replace the fuel hoses. Make sure the fuel system will inject clean fuel perfectly, the first time.

Pull the plugs. Spray in a bunch of WD-40 and turn the engine over by hand. Let this soak for a couple of days. Repeat. Crank the engine (full of oil and fuel pump relay removed) over with starter motor. Let the WD 40 blow out. Install fresh spark plugs. Make sure the ignition system is working and will fire all cylinders.

Get it running. Monitor the water temperature. Run it through several thermostat openings and closings. Check the timing. Adjust idle and fuel mixture if needed. If things look good, try to run the engine at 1500 rpms for 15 minutes. Shut the engine off. Change the oil filter and top off the oil.

Run again. After another 15 minutes give it a few quick revs and continue to let it run at a constant 1500 rpms. Do this for an hour, reving it more and more, as time passes. You can check clutch and transmission function during this time.

 

ATF has very high detergent levels that promote cleaning a lot better than most regular motor oils. Downside is that it has none of the additives needed to neutralize combustion byproducts. Plus at 5 - 10 wt viscosity, it's not suitable for high-load operation. Hence the recommendation to drain it (and the crud it loosens) after some casual unloaded run time.

But... Greg's recommendation on the Swepco additive is undoubtedly better than my shade-tree ATF method. Follow his guidance.

 

Great advice here, not just for 928s! I used the Swepco 502 for a stuck lifter and was rewarded with the sound vanishing after running for a minute. This stuff really works for gummed up internals.

 

I just ordered a quart. $27

 

Nobody said that a 928 would be cheap.


That said, this may be the smallest investment you'll make in the project.

Related: I was wandering through the local Wal-Mart and spotted M1 15W-50 for under $24 for the 5-quart jug. I bought all they had (won't say how many but it was both of them...) at the local store so don't waste time shopping for it here in Bend. Perhaps your local store hasn't been raided yet for its cache. Three jugs would give you your flush plus a full refill, all for under $100 not counting the filters. Still way cheap in 928-land.

 

That is a really good price. I haven't been in a Walmart in years. I've been using Brad Penn 20/50 in all the other 928's. It's around $8 per quart thru Amazon.
BTW, I just posted a question about green shocks in the front and color coded springs, Gold in the back
Any idea of what this is all about?
The jury is still out on this silver car....The next thing to do before I do the engine is drop the fuel tank.

 

its getting harder and harder to find.

 

My motto: grab all you can before the hoarders get there.

For the amount of 928 driving I do these days, I'm doing one oil change a year just prior to hibernation. The local store has a spot for 15W-50, that spot and sometimes actually has a few bottles in it. Meanwhile, my oil locker holds six of the 5-qt jugs. Four of those spots have 15W-50 for the 928, the other two have 0W-20 and 5W-30 for the other cars in the fleet plus the snowblower. That's more than a two-year supply for the 928. I just need to remember to wander back into that corner of the store when my own shelf has space.

 

Yes Doc, you could do that, or you could log on to walmart.com and order enough to get free shipping ($50 min IIRC?)



Walmart.com 18JUN2017


It's nice to have options eh?