my 928 has a cold
11-19-2003, 12:57 AM
#16
Nordschleife Master
You've got to be talking about the throtal enrichment switch. Click the switch, and the computer innores the O2 sensor and enriches the mixture for more power.
To get it off, I used a nut driver with a flexable attatchement. Basicly, it's a 10" long peice of black plastic joints that has a cable of some sort running through it. It makes it easy to work in that area.
Good luck.
To get it off, I used a nut driver with a flexable attatchement. Basicly, it's a 10" long peice of black plastic joints that has a cable of some sort running through it. It makes it easy to work in that area.
Good luck.
11-19-2003, 01:04 AM
#18
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Thats good to know. I was actually talking about where the green wire connects to the distributor, but you just killed two mice with one stone.
Thanks ViribusUnits
Thanks ViribusUnits
11-19-2003, 01:09 AM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Oh, for the green wire?
That easy!
Pull off the ignition wires. They're numbered on the rotos, but it's good to get to know the order before you do so...
Get a peice of chalk or greese pensle and mark the distributers adjustment position.
You use an allen wrench to undo the adjustment bolt. Get the bolt all the way out.
Swivle the distributer around till you can easily reach the green wire.
Use a screw driver, get it good and fixed.
Swivle the distributer back around, set it to your mark, install adjustment bolt.
For good measure, get a timeing light, and set your timeing at 6-8 degrees BTDC at idle with the vacuum disconnected.
That easy!
Pull off the ignition wires. They're numbered on the rotos, but it's good to get to know the order before you do so...
Get a peice of chalk or greese pensle and mark the distributers adjustment position.
You use an allen wrench to undo the adjustment bolt. Get the bolt all the way out.
Swivle the distributer around till you can easily reach the green wire.
Use a screw driver, get it good and fixed.
Swivle the distributer back around, set it to your mark, install adjustment bolt.
For good measure, get a timeing light, and set your timeing at 6-8 degrees BTDC at idle with the vacuum disconnected.
11-19-2003, 01:27 AM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Not really. Once you get used to pulling the wires, it takes all of 5 minutes.
Failing that, you can pull the distributer out, and then replace the seal under it. It's a $2.50 part and if it leaks the whole frount side of your motors gets really oily. If it's been there for 22 years, it probably could use replaceing. You disterb it by moveing the distributer, and it might start leaking on you. Ask me how I know...
Failing that, you can pull the distributer out, and then replace the seal under it. It's a $2.50 part and if it leaks the whole frount side of your motors gets really oily. If it's been there for 22 years, it probably could use replaceing. You disterb it by moveing the distributer, and it might start leaking on you. Ask me how I know...
11-19-2003, 01:37 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Yes, the distributer has a shaft that runs down to the cam shaft on that side.
That cam shaft is pretty much soaked in oil when the engines running.
That oil will come up between the distributer and the camshaft houseing and dirty up the frount end of the engine, and dump some oil on the camshaft. Not pretty or good for the belt.
There is a plastic seal to keep the oil from doing the above. It goes around the outside of the shaft on the outside of the distributer. Normaly, there is no motion for it. If it's old and you move the distributer for some reason, it can brake the decades old seal, and then you get oil all over the place.
It will become much clearer when you pull the distributer.
Just rember to get the timeing marks ligned up or it won't start...
That cam shaft is pretty much soaked in oil when the engines running.
That oil will come up between the distributer and the camshaft houseing and dirty up the frount end of the engine, and dump some oil on the camshaft. Not pretty or good for the belt.
There is a plastic seal to keep the oil from doing the above. It goes around the outside of the shaft on the outside of the distributer. Normaly, there is no motion for it. If it's old and you move the distributer for some reason, it can brake the decades old seal, and then you get oil all over the place.
It will become much clearer when you pull the distributer.
Just rember to get the timeing marks ligned up or it won't start...
11-19-2003, 10:50 AM
#25
Nordschleife Master
No.
There is a metal pipe that is part of the houseing attached to the bottem of the distributer. Well, it's sorta shaped like a pipe but would more properly called the lower part of the distributer.
Inside this pipe is the shaft that goes up to turn the distributer.
The seal is between the distributer and the cam houseing, outside of the distributer proper.
To change it, you've got to pull the distributer up and out of the engine. Your doing most of the work anyways to just change the green wire, so why not.
There is a metal pipe that is part of the houseing attached to the bottem of the distributer. Well, it's sorta shaped like a pipe but would more properly called the lower part of the distributer.
Inside this pipe is the shaft that goes up to turn the distributer.
The seal is between the distributer and the cam houseing, outside of the distributer proper.
To change it, you've got to pull the distributer up and out of the engine. Your doing most of the work anyways to just change the green wire, so why not.
11-19-2003, 12:09 PM
#28
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Mark the distributor location at centerline of the bolt. Remove the adjustment bolt, carefully lift the distributor, it will turn as you do this. Lift just enough to get access to the small screws holding the green wire connector. Lower distributor and tighten bolt with your mark aligned to center of bolt.
Worked for me.
Worked for me.
11-19-2003, 12:53 PM
#29
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My distributor postion was never marked and now swivels freely from loose bolts. I've got my 16 valver locked at 0 degrees and my cam marks lined up for T-belt change. I want to replace the distributor seal before I button her back up. Assuming I have everything lined up (crank, camshaft gears) and the rotor is pointing to cylinder 1, (after replacing the seal) can't I just swivel the distributor location in the middle without messing up the timing?