957Turbo

Does it look worn to you guys? What should I replace?

hwyengr

If you've got a set of calipers, the wear spec is 0.3mm from the top of the rivet to the clutch lining.

You should post a photo of the shaft that runs through the clutch disks. For a lot of folks with trouble disengaging the clutch, the splines on that shaft are chewed up which causes the discs to hang. There's a special high-pressure grease that needs to be used there that is sometimes omitted by folks who don't know.

soontobered84

I don't know about worn, but it does look beat to pieces.

957Turbo

How do I tell if the throw out bearing needs to be replaced? The shaft is kinda wobbly in there

Wisconsin Joe

TOB doesn't ride on the shaft. The shaft just goes through it.

TOB attaches to the PP pack and then the bellhousing.

You check the TOB by checking the...

TOB.
With the bearing (in the housing) out of the car, turn it with various loads on it. Push one way and turn it, push the other way and turn it, side load it (with your hands) and turn it. If you feel any grinding or 'notchiness', it needs to be replaced.

Roger sells just the bearing (no housing). The bearing alone is something like $150. A simple press will get the old one out and the new one in.

957Turbo

Was this what you are talking about?
My splines look worn where they start...Do I need a new shaft?

957Turbo

The rest of the pics, I see the friction plates are from 1995. So they probably need replacing. I already have a new outer friction plate. Any other clutch parts you guys think I need from looking at these pics?
Also how do I remove the bearing out of there? Bearing feels hard to turn and notchy...

hwyengr

It looks like when they welded the short shaft to the coupling, it was too far backwards and the release bearing was riding over the splines instead of the smooth part.

The rest of the teeth don't look too bad, it's possible that the damage is far enough back that it wouldn't bind up the works. But, it could still and you wouldn't know until it was all back together and then you're pulling it all out again.

Tough call, because that's a pricey part.

957Turbo

I will probably buy a used shaft in good condition to replace this one. Does the clutch throw out bearing sleeve should just pull out of the throw out bearing?
How do I remove the bearing?

Wisconsin Joe

The bearing and sleeve (housing) is held into the pressure plate by a snap ring (in the WSM, page 30-7 has the exploded view).

Once you have the TOB assembly out, the bearing itself presses out. Again, Roger has just the bearing.

Mark at 928 International has used shafts. They stand behind their stuff, so it should be in good condition.

However, Greg at Precision has new shafts. Very, very nice new shafts. Cheaper than new Porsche.

957Turbo

OK, cool thanks!
Looked at the snap ring, bent 2 small screwdrivers trying to remove... Does it require spec tool?

957Turbo

Some progress, pulled back the transmission and the torque tube and was able to remove the clutch housing! Noticed the oil pan is leaking, decided to drop the cross member and take care of that while I am under there at the same time.
I read the clutch has to be adjusted? Do you have to wear a pointy hat and a white beard to do this or is it a pretty simple procedure?

957Turbo

So finally got all the broken parts replaced, 2 new friction disks and refinished center plate. Worked for 2 days on trying to properly install the dual clutch No luck, took it to the shop that said they knew what they are doing, they came back with a $2200 bill to install the clutch
I obviously said no thanks, took it to a local shop they installed it for a reasonable amount, they played with it for a week and got it to work finally, but the damn thing grinds into first and reverse, and now even into 2nd... I am at my whits end with this and thinking about abandoning the restoration all together..

957Turbo

Anyone in SF Bay Area willing to help with this clutch adjustment? I think thats what the problem might be....

checkmate1996