Zaino
11-17-2003, 12:47 PM
#16
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Sounds like a little acid rain to me, could be wrong though.
Most if not all Pcar black was clearcoated from the factory.
My suggestion is to try some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze before anything else.
My personal opinion is it is a little more abbrasive on the paint then a clay bar is. I had a few very small blotches that the clay bar would not take out, but the 3M Hand Glaze did. I have never had to use anything stronger then this so can't help you there.....
Most if not all Pcar black was clearcoated from the factory.
My suggestion is to try some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze before anything else.
My personal opinion is it is a little more abbrasive on the paint then a clay bar is. I had a few very small blotches that the clay bar would not take out, but the 3M Hand Glaze did. I have never had to use anything stronger then this so can't help you there.....
11-17-2003, 02:18 PM
#17
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I'm pretty sure your paint is clear coated. If it's not, any abrasive polish will make your applicator turn black.
3M imperial hand glaze is a good product if you're waxing your car, but anyone who recommends anything but Zaino (not a wax) really doesn't understand the ease of application and the diference in the results.
By the way, ever notice how a fresh wax job seems to attract dust? My car has NO dust on it after sitting in the garage all night!
3M imperial hand glaze is a good product if you're waxing your car, but anyone who recommends anything but Zaino (not a wax) really doesn't understand the ease of application and the diference in the results.
By the way, ever notice how a fresh wax job seems to attract dust? My car has NO dust on it after sitting in the garage all night!
Last edited by ErnestSw; 11-17-2003 at 03:11 PM.
11-18-2003, 01:46 PM
#19
I don't get it Ernest.
I don't see a great shine. I see a streaked black car. Maybe its the light. Can you take any other pics?
Larry at CarCareonline always says that polymer stuff doesn't go well with German cars. It clouds and streaks he says.
It takes me about 5 hours to do my car from dirt to shine. If I could cut that time down, and not have to do it again in two weeks, I'd jump.
But your pics are misleading.
I don't see a great shine. I see a streaked black car. Maybe its the light. Can you take any other pics?
Larry at CarCareonline always says that polymer stuff doesn't go well with German cars. It clouds and streaks he says.
It takes me about 5 hours to do my car from dirt to shine. If I could cut that time down, and not have to do it again in two weeks, I'd jump.
But your pics are misleading.
Last edited by BC; 11-18-2003 at 02:12 PM.
11-18-2003, 02:24 PM
#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I've used the clay bar (Meguiars) on my black Explorer and it does a great job.
I mix a thick foamy mixture of detergent for lubrication, slosh it on an area with a sponge, and go at it.
-- Use fingertip pressure and --glide-- the clay over the surface. If you feel the clay contacting your paint, the water/detergent film is too thin or rubbed off. Add another load of suds and try again.
-- ALWAYS use front-to-back strokes with the clay. That way, if the clay does accidentally touch the car paint, any microscrathes will go in the same direction the natural scratches do.
Try to remember what the clay is for. It's used to remove deposits from the surface of the paint. Overspray from someone painting where you drive. Bug and tree droppings that leave little micro droplets on your paint. Thinsg that land on the paint and stand up. It is NOT made to remove stains, or any stuff that lays down on the paint surface or flows out.
Remember also that the clay si an early step in a multi-step restoration process. Depending on the condition of the surface after you use the clay, you will need to polish or maybe just hand glaze before you consider any wax or protectant.
When you hand wax on a non-prepped car, you can often see where the wax leaves little trails around stuff that's still on the paint. So you rub harder or go after the polish or rubbing compound. This is stuff that you can pull off with a gentle fingernail, but you don't want to have to do it over the whole car that way. That's the stuff the clay will remove. I used to use polish to get that stuff off. but the polish works on your paint between the little spots of whatever, and eventually it will alll end up at the same height I guess. The clay takes away that grinding process, preserving your paint from the abuses of polish and rubbing compounds, and lets you use those products just on scratches as they are intended.
I guess I need to try some of the Zaino on my black cars. Like many of you, I'm alays in the hunt for that one miracle product that will keep the black looking blackest.
I mix a thick foamy mixture of detergent for lubrication, slosh it on an area with a sponge, and go at it.
-- Use fingertip pressure and --glide-- the clay over the surface. If you feel the clay contacting your paint, the water/detergent film is too thin or rubbed off. Add another load of suds and try again.
-- ALWAYS use front-to-back strokes with the clay. That way, if the clay does accidentally touch the car paint, any microscrathes will go in the same direction the natural scratches do.
Try to remember what the clay is for. It's used to remove deposits from the surface of the paint. Overspray from someone painting where you drive. Bug and tree droppings that leave little micro droplets on your paint. Thinsg that land on the paint and stand up. It is NOT made to remove stains, or any stuff that lays down on the paint surface or flows out.
Remember also that the clay si an early step in a multi-step restoration process. Depending on the condition of the surface after you use the clay, you will need to polish or maybe just hand glaze before you consider any wax or protectant.
When you hand wax on a non-prepped car, you can often see where the wax leaves little trails around stuff that's still on the paint. So you rub harder or go after the polish or rubbing compound. This is stuff that you can pull off with a gentle fingernail, but you don't want to have to do it over the whole car that way. That's the stuff the clay will remove. I used to use polish to get that stuff off. but the polish works on your paint between the little spots of whatever, and eventually it will alll end up at the same height I guess. The clay takes away that grinding process, preserving your paint from the abuses of polish and rubbing compounds, and lets you use those products just on scratches as they are intended.
I guess I need to try some of the Zaino on my black cars. Like many of you, I'm alays in the hunt for that one miracle product that will keep the black looking blackest.
11-18-2003, 02:38 PM
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Picture Lighting, Soft Water for Car Washing.
Originally posted by BrendanCampion
I don't get it Ernest.
I don't see a great shine. I see a streaked black car. Maybe its the light.
<<...>>
But your pics are misleading.
I don't get it Ernest.
I don't see a great shine. I see a streaked black car. Maybe its the light.
<<...>>
But your pics are misleading.
Flourescent lighting like that is the toughest critic to a great black shine. Every little imperfection reflects light from the flourescents, since they have such a nice broad spectrum. So we wax and polish under those lights, but alsways take pictures with the car in the shade someplace, with a nice contrasting backround.
I don't see any streaks in the picture, by the way.
Great job, by the way.
-- Any other black/dark car owners gone through the trouble of adding a water softener for car washing? Makes a huge difference. As the hard water dries, the dissolved minerals seem to crystalize out in every little surface impetrection in the wax. On black, that makes a nice grey/blue haze in the reflection. When you polish and wax, you are cleaning out those surface pores and everything looks great. Until you wash again and refill those pores with calcium. Soft water cuts most of that out, making rewash an easy issue while retaining most of the original freshly-waxed look.
11-18-2003, 03:46 PM
#23
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I have done 3 cars,......the black GT, and two Audis.....dark blue and black with the Zaino clay bar and had nothing but outstanding results. Whoever said don't use clay on a dark car is "wrong" in my opinion. Use it with plenty of lube as per directions and you should have great results. If you don't, either the paint needs something more drastic or there was operator error.
Dr. Bob..........try the Zaino.....it's a little pricey, but man is it great. I also like the water softener idea........never thought of that.......
Dr. Bob..........try the Zaino.....it's a little pricey, but man is it great. I also like the water softener idea........never thought of that.......
11-18-2003, 04:18 PM
#24
http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=0
In that link, Larry of CarCareonline states:
Overspray Clays Rub Me the Wrong Way
There have been tremendous amounts of advertising and "hype" about overspray clays. Let us set the record straight. Overspray clays have been around since the 1930's (No, they are not brand new.) What is new is the marketing of a product for a use other than it was designed.
Overspray clay is a plasticine matrix with an abrasive intermixed throughout. It was designed and is still the best product to abrade (read grind off) fresh paint overspray from existing paint. This is a classic scenario of its designed usage. A body shop repaints a fender of your car and during the preparation process does not mask off the entire car. A little overspray finds its way onto other areas of your car. This overspray consists of tiny little dots of paint on top of the existing paint. The easiest way to remove this unwanted overspray is to "grind" it off with the clay. Copious amounts of lubricant such as Meguiar #34 Final Inspection or One Grand Show Off are sprayed on the paint and the clay is hydroplaned across the surface to abrade the little bumps of fresh paint from the existing paint. The body shop person "floats" the clay back and forth across the paint using only lateral pressure until the resistance ceases, indicating that the unwanted droplets have been ground off.
Many people are touting overspray clay as the new way to "clean" your paint. This is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off the top layer of skin. You will uncover a layer of fresh clean skin, but this may not be the most comfortable nor beneficial experience for your face. Clays smooth the surface of paint by grinding off the microscopic high spots of your paint, much like sandpaper smoothes a piece of wood. They are the best way to remove paint overspray, tree sap build up and other impossible to remove surface contaminants. Realize that you are also removing some paint with the contaminants, so usage of a clay should be utilized only after all other more gentle methods of cleaning your paint have failed.
Overspray clay is a double-edged sword. It can be a scratch waiting to happen. It must be used with only on a well-lubricated area and must be continually checked for contaminants. If you rub it on areas of the paint that have not been well lubricated or a piece of grit lodges in the clay, you have made "sandpaper" that will scratch the paint. The trick to properly using a clay is use copious amounts of lubricant and "float" the clay over the surface. The clay works best when it hydroplanes over the paint surface. You must continually refold the clay to expose a fresh clean surface. If contaminants lodge in the clay, simply tear off the section and discard. Once you have ground off all the surface contaminants, wash with a car wash, dry thoroughly, apply a quality polish to add emollient oils into the paint and finally wax.
If you have any questions or if you need any further information, please feel free to contact us.
In that link, Larry of CarCareonline states:
Overspray Clays Rub Me the Wrong Way
There have been tremendous amounts of advertising and "hype" about overspray clays. Let us set the record straight. Overspray clays have been around since the 1930's (No, they are not brand new.) What is new is the marketing of a product for a use other than it was designed.
Overspray clay is a plasticine matrix with an abrasive intermixed throughout. It was designed and is still the best product to abrade (read grind off) fresh paint overspray from existing paint. This is a classic scenario of its designed usage. A body shop repaints a fender of your car and during the preparation process does not mask off the entire car. A little overspray finds its way onto other areas of your car. This overspray consists of tiny little dots of paint on top of the existing paint. The easiest way to remove this unwanted overspray is to "grind" it off with the clay. Copious amounts of lubricant such as Meguiar #34 Final Inspection or One Grand Show Off are sprayed on the paint and the clay is hydroplaned across the surface to abrade the little bumps of fresh paint from the existing paint. The body shop person "floats" the clay back and forth across the paint using only lateral pressure until the resistance ceases, indicating that the unwanted droplets have been ground off.
Many people are touting overspray clay as the new way to "clean" your paint. This is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off the top layer of skin. You will uncover a layer of fresh clean skin, but this may not be the most comfortable nor beneficial experience for your face. Clays smooth the surface of paint by grinding off the microscopic high spots of your paint, much like sandpaper smoothes a piece of wood. They are the best way to remove paint overspray, tree sap build up and other impossible to remove surface contaminants. Realize that you are also removing some paint with the contaminants, so usage of a clay should be utilized only after all other more gentle methods of cleaning your paint have failed.
Overspray clay is a double-edged sword. It can be a scratch waiting to happen. It must be used with only on a well-lubricated area and must be continually checked for contaminants. If you rub it on areas of the paint that have not been well lubricated or a piece of grit lodges in the clay, you have made "sandpaper" that will scratch the paint. The trick to properly using a clay is use copious amounts of lubricant and "float" the clay over the surface. The clay works best when it hydroplanes over the paint surface. You must continually refold the clay to expose a fresh clean surface. If contaminants lodge in the clay, simply tear off the section and discard. Once you have ground off all the surface contaminants, wash with a car wash, dry thoroughly, apply a quality polish to add emollient oils into the paint and finally wax.
If you have any questions or if you need any further information, please feel free to contact us.
11-18-2003, 08:39 PM
#27
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Chris,
I agree with Ernest that the metallic colors all have clearcoats over the paint. Like you, I also have an 89 S4 in Silver Metallic and even though other products made my car look good, the most reflectivity and "pop" came from using Zaino. The first time I used Zaino, I did the whole process of washing, claying, re-washing and then using the Z2 polish (for clearcoat finishes) mixed with ZFX (it allows the Z2 polish to flash cure), giving it another layer of the Z2 & ZFX mixture and then hitting it with the Z6 gloss enhancer (Zaino's version of a quick detailing spray).
The results are amazing. I've had guys in the local PCA compliment my car when standing next to their brand new 996's and Boxsters.
Give it a try, you will not be disappointed.
Rob
I agree with Ernest that the metallic colors all have clearcoats over the paint. Like you, I also have an 89 S4 in Silver Metallic and even though other products made my car look good, the most reflectivity and "pop" came from using Zaino. The first time I used Zaino, I did the whole process of washing, claying, re-washing and then using the Z2 polish (for clearcoat finishes) mixed with ZFX (it allows the Z2 polish to flash cure), giving it another layer of the Z2 & ZFX mixture and then hitting it with the Z6 gloss enhancer (Zaino's version of a quick detailing spray).
The results are amazing. I've had guys in the local PCA compliment my car when standing next to their brand new 996's and Boxsters.
Give it a try, you will not be disappointed.
Rob
11-19-2003, 02:29 AM
#28
Ernest,
Have yet to try Zaino.
Brendan,
If I spend more than 45 minutes from dirt to to the last snap of the cotton polishing cloth I'd slit my wrists.
While not a show car by any stretch of the imagination -she has her share of nicks and a few chips - I wouldn't be embarrased to park Pattycakes front row center of any gathering.
Well...there is that shine **** with a Weissach, the one with the polished cats and heat shields.
I'd be the before 'picture'. And I do need to replace the front spoiler.
I do have to admit a yen for a black, or a wet looking RED sHARk but realise the Hell- bronze saves me a lot of effort when it comes to shining her up. Besides I live in the part of Texas that has a lot in common with the great deserts of the world...plenty of dust.
Have yet to try Zaino.
Brendan,
If I spend more than 45 minutes from dirt to to the last snap of the cotton polishing cloth I'd slit my wrists.
While not a show car by any stretch of the imagination -she has her share of nicks and a few chips - I wouldn't be embarrased to park Pattycakes front row center of any gathering.
Well...there is that shine **** with a Weissach, the one with the polished cats and heat shields.
I'd be the before 'picture'. And I do need to replace the front spoiler. I do have to admit a yen for a black, or a wet looking RED sHARk but realise the Hell- bronze saves me a lot of effort when it comes to shining her up. Besides I live in the part of Texas that has a lot in common with the great deserts of the world...plenty of dust.
11-19-2003, 01:27 PM
#29
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Ernest & Rob,
Thanks for the replies... reading complementary posts on a product is amazing... especially when someone has the same Model and color of your car.
I am ordering this product ASAP.
Thanks for the replies... reading complementary posts on a product is amazing... especially when someone has the same Model and color of your car.
I am ordering this product ASAP.